This looks good, but my only concern would be that it only takes a little movement back out from the pin and everything is on. I usually use 2" by 3/32" cotter pins, because it's easy to attach the "Remove Before Flight" ribbons and they fit through the brass ink tubes from pens. I make sure they can extend at least a 1/2" past the point of closing/releasing the switch so if they get giggled or pulled a little everything stays off.The brass rod key and switch. My beginner lathe work is showing
You are right, I will add a feature to cover this, thank you for pointing this out
. I will modify the switch today. I have some elaborate ideas but a simple approach should work.
Thanks! I like your Joker theme! super cool! I am glad I helped someone-it was the biggest project I have done yet! Almost done painting then I can wait until launches start again. Did you use the original 1/8" fins? were they warped? Mine still are just slightly warped but the fiberglass really helped. I would use G10 or 1/4" in the future to avoid the thin ply warping. Thanks for checking in-don't forget to post a flight photo for us: )
Actually yes they were. And still are ever so slightly. It wont be a problem but it's there. I glassed the body tubes and did tip to tip. The bases of the fins are perfectly aligned with the body tube but then have a little wiggle. The tips are a perfect 120° apart.
I mostly glassed it to see if I could. It was my first time glassing anything but the extra durability gives me a bit of piece of mind for my L2 cert. I did have to reslot. I taped off the inside and glassed right over the slots. But since I built the can outside the BT I wasnt really worried about it. I had to extend the slots anyway. So that area has two layers. The rest has one 6 oz layer.
Yes, hopefully! Our launch site has been shut down for now...lots of time for getting everything ready. I wonder if clubs will do extended hours to make up for all this. Everyone has been building
I glassed the tubes on my L2 scratch build too Mostly for the same reason, I hadn't done it before and wanted to try. That was something I never regretted.
I am using a DMS motor and a jolly logic first few times around. I wanted to be sure the flight was really stable as the fins (As I discuss earlier in the build) were still warped after fiberglassing and pressing them. Not really warped but I was not happy with the result. Turns out it has a nice, easy, stable roll-a really nice flier! I may use charges but keeping it simple for now. I did upgrade the rail to 10ft from 72" as a fellow member had brought one. Nice, fast lift-off. The amount for the well for the DMS motor I used, I settled on about 1.25 g for motor eject. BUT I use the supplied 1g of FFFF and .25 of my own FFF.
Thank you, Yes it did turn into a longer project than it really was
A "K" flight is the "ultimate" goal for flights maybe LDRS someday
I want to try this motor in my 3" Loc Iris someday. She's built Ford Tough.
J425 is my favorite 38mm motor to date. DMS, no stress of building it before flight...the iris will be a good flight
