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Hyperloc 835 Build (updated kit) - Level 2 kit

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Tim51

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Sorry I didn't see your post earlier. My experience here is less than some, but I have successfully flown Loc tubing joined with a PML phenolic coupler on a Pro 54 4G K. Each section of loc tubing had a layer of glass, but the joint itself did not, (if that makes sense...) YMMV of course..
yes on the epoxy but the wall thickness at a new joint is where I think people were concerned. I think you might be right but let's see what others with experience with K's and L's think, there is certainly data on it somewhere. I only have experience to baby J's right now but am not afraid to overbuild this but kind of want to keep the original length. Someone here knows.
 

downhill_D

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Sorry I didn't see your post earlier. My experience here is less than some, but I have successfully flown Loc tubing joined with a PML phenolic coupler on a Pro 54 4G K. Each section of loc tubing had a layer of glass, but the joint itself did not, (if that makes sense...) YMMV of course..
Thanks! That makes sense it would work there! I will go ahead with the extra loc coupler. I appreciate the response!
 

downhill_D

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The fin can was assembled by attaching the fins with waterproof wood glue and the body tube was temporarily attached each time for alignment using a visual guide provided by Mach 1’s website. Once dry I added JB weld at the MMT. I will fillet with JB weld at the fins once more before gluing the MMT into the body tube.
 

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downhill_D

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Anyone else lucky enough to catch that rocket launch out of Kennedy on Sunday? I am ashamed to say I saw it but no photos- from 350+miles away at 11pm with a very early drive and flight. But! It was awesome to see and day after visiting the kennedy space center! Crazy cool. I feel lucky.
 

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downhill_D

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I did some sanding of the motor mount rings, removed more exposed glassine and finished the JB weld fillets. I made a cardboard “spoon” and ran an 1/8” rod through the cord of the cardboard and taped into place. I then measured out the distance from top of body tube to the top motor mount ring on the rod for accurate placement of the epoxy.
 

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downhill_D

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Got a stiffy today. I will install it using 30min bsi. I also ordered new 4” body tube. I will have repair tubing and have a project in mind involving a rrc3 with airstart ability and upscaling the estes delta clipper I flew and never recovered more than the 1 stage booster. Ldrs capable stuff. Anyway, long way out.
 

downhill_D

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The extension for the booster tube is assembled. Re-checked the fin can position and fit to the booster. I added 1500lb test kevlar to the u-bolt and put masking tape around the kevlar to keep the knot (cow hitch) in place. This will have a 3ft nomex sleeve over it and attach to the flat nylon shock cord included with the kit. The kevlar extends about 2ft outside the booster at extension. I may change the kevlar knot to something more permanent like a life safety knot.
 

downhill_D

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After lots of thought (about the last two weeks) with the fin can out I decided to finally glue it into the booster tube today. For the forward and mid centering rings I used waterproof wood glue.
 

downhill_D

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Installed the aft rail button flush with jb weld on the inside. The fins will get the final internal fillets and then I will fill with foam. The multi sized holes in the mid centering ring are to allow the 2 part expanding foam to expand from the forward centering ring back into the aft section towards, but not above, the aft centering ring location. Multiple small pours will be made to reduce the volume of heat produced from the 2 part foam reaction.
 

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downhill_D

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Foamed the fore and aft sections of the fin can in 3 pours of 5lb density (12"x12"x12"= 5lbs) and used two junk pvc tubes (1/2") as funnels aligned with the predrilled holes in the mid ring and taped into place during the first two pours. The third pour was above the mid-ring and a slight overpour but removal of foam is very easy in the first few minutes of setting with a flathead screwdriver. The pours were counted as 8 second pours out of a small yogurt cup of well mixed 2 part foam (TPF). The TPF expanded as expected (10x for this foam) and my pours were probably too heavy.

The booster tube got very hot but never over expanded and I had it clamped in front of a window on a cool breezy day to help it release heat. The extra holes in the mid-ring proved to be very useful in releasing trapped air as the TPF rose inside the fin can. I will change to maybe 5-6 smaller pours (3-4 sec count each) instead next time for TPF (5lb density) in a 4" booster holding a 54mm mount. The final centering ring dry-fit perfectly. I can now seal this rocket and finish the payload and nosecone configuration.

I used balsa with finishing nails for TPF mixing paddles in a drill. I took note from the instructions this foam would perform better if the part B were separately mixed before mixing with part A. The results were excellent.
 
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downhill_D

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downhill_D

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Capped off the MMT with the final centering ring and aeropack retainer. Filleted the fins with rocketpoxy over about 2 days and should be ready for painting and port drilling this weekend. I'll need to do some soldering this weekend to tidy up connections and add the wiring. It currently weighs about 4lbs 11oz without a casing or parachutes. I still have the nosecone to tackle for connection and weight. I'd like to fly this on J's and K's in our 6500ft window so will build the rocksim file this weekend as well for a better weight estimate.
 

downhill_D

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After the rough sim file I built for this (Rocksim had an incorrect 5" body width on the Hyperloc 835) it looks as though K's will be 7k and up so not gonna be flying any locally BUT NSL is around the corner with a nice waiver...
 

Theory

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What is your ‘pre paint’ weight?
 

Theory

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thank you and cool deal.

what is your CP / CG looking like with the foam in the fin can?
 

downhill_D

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Really good, with electronics in the bay and batteries, parachutes, Nomex blanket, Nomex shock cord protector, shock cords, and forged eyebolts it has:

CG:44" currently
CP: about 2" forward of the fins leaving CG ~2 calibers forward. I am still trying to perfect the fin shape in rocksim-everything is good except I cannot get the last 1" vertical from the fin can to the aft of the back angle towards the retainer if that makes any sense...?
 

downhill_D

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drilled a 24mm hole in the nosecone to add a washer and 2 bolts, one inside and one outside, with blue loctite to the longer 1200lb test forged bolt. The stock nosecone molded anchor point is not a realistic securement so I bolted the eyebolt to the nosecone before filling it with 2 part foam through the same hole.
 

downhill_D

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Okay!
6 lbs 14.7 oz with all wires, batteries and new electric contacts on the outsides of the switch band. I also installed a switch (the type using a removable rod of brass). I wasn't ready to solder up an egg timer wifi switch yet (I have a few for projects) so I used a HPR common mechanical approach. I had an aluminum sleeve (slightly smaller than 3/16") handy for the brass rod guide to the switch and used a lathe to get the 3/16" brass width just right, then tapered it for smooth switch actuation. The 3/16" hole seems large so I may tape the opening right before flight (after removal of the brass rod).

Everything fired up BUT I do not have the data kit for my rrc3 yet so: how much vacuum will I need to actuate the matches (ground testing)? I also have a shop vac

I don't think it was a good enough seal or a strong enough vacuum when I tried sealing holes and applying a normal vacuum nozzle to one port after the rrc3 made its start up checks.
 

downhill_D

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I filled the wiring “ports” with high temp gasket maker I used with an old chrysler new yorker brougham. It came in handy-I do not own the car now...a classic but a good thing I don’t have the money pit anymore. I used an empty 1ml syringe (without a needle) and drew out a small amount of the gasket maker (right from the tube was best) for a more precise application.
 

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downhill_D

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Made and tested some ignitors (matches) for the charge wells using a kit from Apogee and some dip. The chip boards work awesome fyi! I was impressed. I now need to test them with my rrc3 and chosen batteries now. I have the wiring kit and got it working on my pc. missile works has nice software. I need to learn how to sim AND test the main and drogue with matches. I tried to use the manual mode (on, on, on, off) but the program button did not function as I thought so after seeing someone (youtube) using the sim software for this type of testing I will try that route.
 

downhill_D

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I used some help from the recovery/electronics forum and my altimeter works flawlessly firing the chip boards. I tried them using both 300 mah and 850mah Lipos and both fired with minimal draws but the 850 would be better on our hot days here. I really like the missile works rrc3 altimeter - it can do a LOT.
 

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