3D Printing How thick should prints be for Mid-Powered and High-Powered?

[BigMacDaddy]

For low powered I have been printing 3 or 4 walls @ .4mm for nose cones, 3 walls for transitions (sometimes 2 walls if I really need to keep things light or a part is just cosmetic and unlikely to be damaged). Where I have tops or bottoms, usually doing 4 layers on bottom and 6 on top with 15% infill (although I try to design my models to minimize any solid parts as much as possible).

What do folks recommend for mid-powered or high-powered? Maybe more specifically how thick should walls be for nosecones, transitions, or other parts for 2.6", 3", 4" airframes?

What about for higher powered engines? I have been doing retainers, engine blocks, etc... from ABS plastic with good results. Any advice about engine blocks, adapters, retainer caps, etc... for mid- or high-powered engines?

Thanks in advance.

-Rob

 

[cwbullet]

I print with 4-8mm thickness for high power.

 

[BigMacDaddy]

I print with 4-8mm thickness for high power.

Thanks Chuck!

 

[ShadowSpire48]

My 2.2" Phoenix nose cone is 2mm wall thickness but I do have a 4" HoJo nose that is like 4mm walls plus about 50% infill lol

 

[Charles_McG]

My G-J Nosecones are single wall 0.6mm and foam filled.

Shoulders and fin cans are 4 walls and 40%. Thick wedge fins dont seem to need more. Thin fins I have printed with a channel to glue in a carbon fiber slat to stiffen it.

 

[BigMacDaddy]

My G-J Nosecones are single wall 0.6mm and foam filled.

Shoulders and fin cans are 4 walls and 40%. Thick wedge fins dont seem to need more. Thin fins I have printed with a channel to glue in a carbon fiber slat to stiffen it.

Thank you Charles!

 

[Charles_McG]

I'm not hitting things with hard Gs. 10-15G. I've started getting bigger chutes for a little softer landing.