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Got in my G3 kit!

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Jon Craig

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Got my second box from Wildman today!:



Inside...





Wow, this thing is big...



The fins and nosecone bulkplate were missing (called Wildman - they're going to ship them to me - awesome service!) - but wow! Very cool!

I'm not sure where to start! Any advice on building this sucker would be appreciated! :)
 

blackjack2564

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Read these assembly instructions here... http://www.wildmanrocketry.com/default.asp?groupid=1&groupid1=612121482&prodid=343130436582447

The rockets can be assembled the same way, obviously there will be slight differences in measurements. [one is a 3in, the other a 4] but the same technique can be used. It a long read, but easy to follow and simple to do.

Good luck... and you can still drink and dance in the moonlight even though it's not a Wildman {lol}

If you wish to dual deploy it.... I don't think it comes with a vent band. You can slice a half inch off the fincan to use on the coupler or forgo it all together and do the Half hole on each side of airframe for your switch or wires. Still use 3 shear pins and 3 rivets to hold in the Av-bay

100_2701.jpg
 
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Bill P

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I have a lot of miles (upwards ;) ) on my G3. You'll love it.
 

Jon Craig

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If you wish to dual deploy it.... I don't think it comes with a vent band. You can slice a half inch off the fincan to use on the coupler or forgo it all together and do the Half hole on each side of airframe for your switch or wires. Still use 3 shear pins and 3 rivets to hold in the Av-bay
It was sold and advertised as being DD out of the box, so I'm definitely planning on DD, heh. Have the miniRRC2 sitting here for it.
 

blackjack2564

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Well there ya go then!!

Let's have plenty of build pics, and good luck with your build. We'll all be here to help with any questions along the way.

You can save some weight and some precious space by using 3/16 threaded rod and hardware, if the kit did not come with any. Still use 1/4 eyebolts though.
 
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Jon Craig

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Read these assembly instructions here... http://www.wildmanrocketry.com/default.asp?groupid=1&groupid1=612121482&prodid=343130436582447

The rockets can be assembled the same way, obviously there will be slight differences in measurements. [one is a 3in, the other a 4] but the same technique can be used. It a long read, but easy to follow and simple to do.
Thanks for that link - that's VERY helpful indeed! Nice!

If you wouldn't mind, I'd love some shots of yours assembled and broken apart into the various sections as they break for DD. Can PM or email them to me if you don't want to post.
 

als57

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I don't think it comes with a vent band. You can slice a half inch off the fincan to use on the coupler or forgo it all together and do the Half hole on each side of airframe for your switch or wires. Still use 3 shear pins and 3 rivets to hold in the Av-bay

Do you have a good method for cutting the PR G10 tube. Would like to make a vent band for my G3 and convert the Tomahawk to DD.

Al
 

blackjack2564

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Thanks for that link - that's VERY helpful indeed! Nice!

If you wouldn't mind, I'd love some shots of yours assembled and broken apart into the various sections as they break for DD. Can PM or email them to me if you don't want to post.

Here is another one for a 3in rocket exactly the same as yours except for the fin shape. This rocket I measured for the largest motor that would fit and cut off everything else not needed. Used thinner gauge hardware also. Every little bit counts. Saved 2.6 lbs over the stock kit and still can fly L motors in it! Kit done 9.6lbs mine 7.5 ready to fly, every thing in it but motor!

This thread is long and full of commentary BUT very very detailed in every aspect. You can skip the first couple pages where I disassemble another rocket and go to where I start the build [post 27]
This build even shows how to paint your rocket and make your own decals!

It will take me a day or two to dig out a rocket and take the pics you request. This should hold you over till then. If you follow it, your build will be the lightest, strongest highest flying G-3 around!


http://www.rocketryplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2648
 
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Jon Craig

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This thread is long and full of commentary BUT very very detailed in every aspect. You can skip the first couple pages where I disassemble another rocket and go to where I start the build [post 27]
This build even shows how to paint your rocket and make your own decals!

It will take me a day or two to dig out a rocket and take the pics you request. This should hold you over till then. If you follow it, your build will be the lightest, strongest highest flying G-3 around!


http://www.rocketryplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2648
Awesome - thanks! :)

Can't wait to see the G3 pics too!
 

blackjack2564

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Do you have a good method for cutting the PR G10 tube. Would like to make a vent band for my G3 and convert the Tomahawk to DD.

Al

Mark your cut line, then put another longer mark length wise on the tube, so after it's cut you can line up the cut exactly. This way you don't have to worry about a perfect cut.
The "cut' section will be able to align exactly with the cut tube. Keep the factory edge to the same side as the payload and the 2 cut edges next to each other.

This way even if the cut is a little off, it will correctly align itself, being right next to each other in the same position and matching the lines up. If you do not mark it , heaven help you trying to get the perfect alignment later!
I then scribe into the glass slightly so I can find my mark after painting!

Done this way you can cut it by various methods because if will always align, perfect or not!
I use a chop saw [miter saw] or table saw with a fence. Cut slowly and feed slowly or the blade will "grab" the tube and ruin your cut. Use a carbide blade or old regular one cause they are usually ruined after cutting glass [the regular type]

I have done it at the hotel at night building for the next day with a Hack Saw and tape wrapped around the tube for a guide.
 

Jon Craig

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Will be starting this build soon. Will be a slow build as it's my first true HPR build (Heh, PML Callisto for L1 hardly counts!).
 

Bill P

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Putting in a band around the e-bay isn't really necessary. You can drill the hole in the coupler at the joint with half of the hole in the booster and payload sections. Just line up the hole.

IMG_0115.jpg
 
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