gluing plastic to cardboard

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KurtH

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My other hobby is plastic modeling, so I have a pretty large arsenal of adhesives. I am about to start the Estes D region tomahawk, which has a lot of plastic parts. The instructions say to use Tube Glue to attach plastic to card board. Plastic cement typically works by melting the plastic so it welds together. Epoxy seems like a better choice for joining dissimilar materials. Is there some compelling reason to use tube glue? Or maybe they suggest that for ease of assembly so people do not have to mess with two part epoxy?

This will be my first biggish rocket with a D motor. It looks like it will be a fun one to fly.
 
I would agree that epoxy is the choice for cardboard to plastic.
24hr epoxy makes a better bond than 5 min epoxy.
Good Luck

cornyl
 
I understand that those little tubes of cement for plastic models are supposed to work by melting the plastic parts together, but the stuff that is currently available is pretty much worthless. Some of the parts I have assembled with tube glue have pulled apart later. I don't use it anymore.

Other glues work better, like the CA that was already mentioned. There are also better plastic-plastic glues available now that do a better job of actually welding the parts together. Ask for a little advice at your local hobby shop?

It always helps, with any adhesive, to lightly scuff-sand the joining surfaces.
 
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Don't forget Gorilla Glue

That stuff works well on every material I have tried.
It seems to stick especially well to me.
 
What used to known as RC-56 from Wilhold is a PVA glue that sticks plastic to wood and paper and dries clear. It's sold as "canopy glue" in hobby shops that sell stuff for RC airplanes. Pacer Formula 560 is one currently available variant. Another is sold by the Zinger Propeller company - I forget what that one is called.

I've used this stuff to glue plastic fin cans to tubes and also in the fin/ring/BT assembly on my Maxi Alpha 3. Water cleanup, and a little flexible even when cured (which is more than I can say for CAs). Just the other day I well-secured the fin can on a Quest Starhawk with the Zinger variety of the glue.
 
The old fashion tube glue for plastic models used to have plastic dissolved in with the solvent, that way if you use it on plastic to cardboard it will dissolve the plastic, and the already dissolved plastic will seep into the pores of the cardboard, so when the solvent evaporates all the is left is the plastic.
 
Don't forget Gorilla Glue

That stuff works well on every material I have tried.
It seems to stick especially well to me.
Why is that? Why does EVERY glue formulation that I have ever come across ALWAYS stick to my skin much better than to anything else?

I agree about the Gorilla (polyurethane-based) Glue. If the question had concerned laminating plastic to cardboard, I would have suggested laminating epoxy. But for right angle joints, like fins to body tubes, Gorilla Glue sounds like a good choice. As long as the joint doesn't show, though. There is the familiar brown Gorilla PU Glue, and also a white version.

Another option would be to use special shock-resistant rubberized CA. Gorilla CA contains rubber for shock resistance, according to its label. But I'm thinking more of either Insta-Flex+ from BSI, as well as their IC-Gel.
 
As a plastic modeler ,Tenax 7 is my fave for styrene to styrene.I built the Estes Tomohawk and used 5 min epoxy for the plastic to cardboard connection.I cleaned the plastic with alcohol and then sanded the area to be glued with 60/80 grit (sanding in a cross hatch motion) to give the epoxy something to "key" into.
I have also used an Exacto knife & #11 blade to score cross hatches into plastic....same idea as coarse sandpaper.That joint ain`t going nowhere ;)

The Gorilla Glue (polyurathane) will also make a strong bond as mentioned ,but it helps to moisten the plastic or cardboard (as these glues are moisture cure...as is CA)
I like to use Gorilla Glue to adhere lead shot inside nosecones ,just add a few drops of water inside the cone ,add lead shot and pour in the glue.After a good 8 hours the glue foams up and sticks like snot to the plastic.

Paul
 
My other hobby is plastic modeling, so I have a pretty large arsenal of adhesives. I am about to start the Estes D region tomahawk, which has a lot of plastic parts. The instructions say to use Tube Glue to attach plastic to card board. Plastic cement typically works by melting the plastic so it welds together. Epoxy seems like a better choice for joining dissimilar materials. Is there some compelling reason to use tube glue? Or maybe they suggest that for ease of assembly so people do not have to mess with two part epoxy?

This will be my first biggish rocket with a D motor. It looks like it will be a fun one to fly.

Your assumption is correct, the kit suggestion is "the Easy" answer for one time flyers. But tube type plastic cement like most other Solvent welding agents just doesn't have any penetration power on wood or cardboard. Simple fight vibration and flexing will cause these joints to fail in pretty short order.
Epoxy is most definately that best choice for fixing Plastic parts to cardboard or wood. Part of the process should be to heavily rough up the inside surfaces of the parts being joined or even drill a few small holes to form epoxy rivets at these assemblies as they cure.
Solvent Welding Agents really doesn't hold up well either on Styrene/cardboard joints. It'd be a better choice then CA but still really doesn't have the holding power of a two part epoxy on these dissimilar materials.
Polyurethane glues (golilla glue) require wetting and are specifically formulated for use on Wood products then can be securely clamped during drying as the material expands into a foam as it cures. Great stuff on woodend cabinet joints..absolute CRAP on model rockets. OK for holding Noseweight and possibly some motor mounts were the end results won't be seen but in general the stuff makes an awful mess. unless tightly clamped and controlled.
Do NOT use CA on these parts as the main adhesive. CA becomes very brittle over a very short period of time and will fail. Epoxy retains a bit of elasticity making the joints permanent.
CA is great stuff for quick set tacking, short term competition models, filling holes or creating some details in styrene but because of it's tendency to become brittle it's just not a good choice for this type of application or applications were the parts are subject to a lot of vibration or flexing...ie in flight.

All Adhesives and Glues are NOT created equal and have very specific purposes; There is no such thing as the perfect adhesive for all jobs. You mentioned having lots of adhesives and glues at your disposal, that's a good sign. Leaning which do what with different substrates is well worth the time and effort reading lables and experimenting a little along the way:)
Hope this helps.
 
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