Fliskits FarScape Construction

[brianc]

Let's use this thread to post construction progress, tips, questions, pleas for help and of
course, pictures.


If you haven't already read Jim's <a href="https://rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10361">TRF announcement</a> or checked out the <a href="https://www.fliskits.com/products/rocketkits/kit_detail/farscape.htm">product web
page</a>, go ahead and click away. We'll wait.

 

[brianc]

At NARAM-46, I picked up FarScape kit #15. My son's club launch is August 21st
and I thought it would be great to show off this new kit, so I hope to complete
construction and painting by then. At the same time I thought- why not post the
progress on TRF?

If you're also building one, feel free to jump in - the more the merrier!

 

[brianc]

This is gonna be fun! Not only the build, but I suspect the flying as well. I can't wait!

Here's the parts in the kit.

You get an excellent and easy to follow instruction manual, decals, two BT-50 tubes,
fin and bulkhead balsa material (in various thicknesses), a pattern sheet,
parts list (on the back of slipsheet), a BT-5 fin tube, motor mount parts and centering rings,
a balsa nosecone with eyehook, kevlar, elastic and a FlisKits plastic chute.

A nice touch is the basswood pieces to use as antennas and guns. A lesser kit
would expect the builder to use scrap wood or toothpicks.






Note: Sharp eyes will notice I'm missing launch lugs. I emailed Jim
to alert him in case any other unshipped kits might also be mispacked.
True to form, Jim was all over it right away.

 

[brianc]

One of the things that makes this a slightly higher skill level kit, is the
tube triming. Both BT-50 tubes must be cut for the ejection baffle ducts and
the slope that gives the rocket it's unique shape.

I found using an expended Estes C11 or D12 motor to provide some backing
made the tube much easier to cut. Just be sure the motor is inserted under the area
where you're cutting so you don't accidentally crush the tube!

 

[brianc]

The sloped tube sections are sealed with a 1/32" balsa bulkhead. This is done
by cutting the wood so the grain allows the part to bend with the curve of the
tube. The instructions suggest holding the parts together with tape while the
glue drys.

I also suggest using a slightly larger bead of glue, then proping the tubes
vertically so gravity will help the glue flow to the bulkhead and tube edge. With
luck, this will form a strong filet on the inside of the tube. I used a drinking
glass that was heavy enough not to tip while holding both long tubes.


Up to this point in the instructions takes a couple of hours (if you take your
time). It's also a good spot to stop for the night, take a break in the construction
and allow the glue to dry.


Next up- trimming and gluing the tubes followed by fin cutting. Stay tuned!

 

[jflis]

man, I hope you remembered to put the bulkhead plugs in there before finishing the ends of the tubes...

Looks great so far! I can't wait to see this come together for you and to get feedback on the kit, instructions, everything.

jim

 

[n3tjm]

Nice looking rocket. I might get two. One is a low number for my wall, the other is one I wanna build and fly . I am waiting for the DOM results before I order though

 

[brianc]

Originally posted by jflis
man, I hope you remembered to put the bulkhead plugs in there before finishing the ends of the tubes...

Yeah, they're in the tubes. I guess it was easy to miss the kevlar hanging
out of the tube in my drinking glass pic.

I didn't want to regurgitate every single step of the instructions... Especially
for simple and common things like that or building and inserting the motor mount.

Although, I must confess... After meeting Carl at NARAM, I just had to research
the Flistory of "The Tulanko Tail"(tm).



Here's another tip I forgot to mention earlier... It is very important to read and reread
the instructions just to make sure you have your mind wrapped around the Duct Marking
Guide. The pattern and instructions take pains to remain consistant when refering to
the upper and lower ducts (a good thing). But you need to be sure you understand the
upper duct is cut into the bottom tube and the lower duct is cut into the top tube.

I found myself rereading the instructions a few times, asking "is it the upper duct because
it's on the top of the tube or because it's on the upper tube"?

 

[jflis]

oohhh, good point. I was driving myself NUTS with wording that section so that it made sense. there is NO doubt that is going to cause trouble...

but it is important to keep the distinction between them or it ain't gonna fly...

jim

 

[brianc]

Dragin' in the lawn chairs and securing the patio for the hurricane, so no
real updates for now...


I did get the bulkheads trimmed and the tubes glued together. I also have the main fins cut.

I have a picture of the tubes clamped down on my Skill table, but that'll have to
wait a bit. TIP-- you will want a long flat surface to ensure proper alignment.
I found I also had to apply some clamping to allow the glue to set up. I really
can't hold parts in place for too long- I always end up moving the assembly (kinda
like painters that always have to touch) . So, it's best (for me) to clamp and leave
it alone. I suppose masking tape might work too.

I roughed up the tubes where the glue was going (these are realy smooth tubes)
and after the structural glue was dry, I added a filet between the tubes to ensure
the ejection deployment duct was well sealed.


Hopefully, I'll be able to make some serious progress this weekend (if I'm not
cleaning up).

 

[jflis]

Since you've gotten to that point, I wanted to ask if Step 21 and Figure 21 were clear and easy to understand. This figure shows proper tube alignment with 2 examples of common problems when aligning tubes in this manner.

See attached Figure 21

 

[radiO]

man, i can't wait to see the finished thing!

 

[brianc]

Originally posted by jflis
Since you've gotten to that point, I wanted to ask if Step 21 and Figure 21 were clear and easy to understand.

Oh yeah, all the instructions are clear and easy to understand.

Here's the clamping I did on my Skill table. As you can see, I really used the
table to provide the alignment of the tubes along the center line. Then I used
my mitre box and clamp blocks to ensure the tubes remained together while the glue
set. I didn't really apply much pressure, so 'clamping' may be a misnomer.

 

[brianc]

Originally posted by radiO
man, i can't wait to see the finished thing!

Starting to look like something that'll fly!

 

[brianc]

Here's a close up of secondary fins.

 

[brianc]

And another view.


Off to let the glue dry while I cut and sand the little details.

 

[jflis]

oh very cool. You have no idea how rewarding it is to come up with a design, document it, then watch someone else reproduce the model from your instructions. I'm just thrilled that your's looks like mine... LOL

 

[brianc]

Originally posted by jflis
I'm just thrilled that your's looks like mine... LOL

I just hope mine flys like yours!

 

[brianc]

Step 22 of the instructions says to make the sensor supports from
1/32" balsa. The pattern sheet (correctly) shows those are made
from 1/16". Only the Hyper-TAC antenna bases should be 1/32".

But wait! The kit didn't include any 1/16" balsa.... I think you really
meant 3/32" for the sensor support fins. At least thats what matches the
pattern placement and the wrap.


I discovered this after I cut 1/32" sensor supports and the wrap
was obviously too big. NBD, easily corrected- there's plenty of
balsa provided.

 

[Pippen]

Thanks for taking the time to post this, Brian. It's really cool to see the step-by-step process.

How did you cut the fins to that shape?

 

[brianc]

Originally posted by Pippen
How did you cut the fins to that shape?

I photocopied the fin pattern (gotta keep the original), then cut out the paper patterns
with scissors. After tracing the outline of the fins onto the balsa, I used a knife to cut.

When laying out the fin stock, be sure to align the wood grain as shown on the pattern.

 

[eugenefl]

Brian, good build and good documentation. I might be able to confirm some of your findings shortly. Mine is on the build table. I refuse to open the packaging up until the moment I commit to building. It will come soon.

 

[Pippen]

Originally posted by brianc
After tracing the outline of the fins onto the balsa, I used a knife to cut.

LOL, and here I thought you were going to share some complicated technique for cutting that balsa in a curve.

 

[jflis]

Originally posted by brianc
Step 22 of the instructions says to make the sensor supports from
1/32" balsa. The pattern sheet (correctly) shows those are made
from 1/16". Only the Hyper-TAC antenna bases should be 1/32".

But wait! The kit didn't include any 1/16" balsa.... I think you really
meant 3/32" for the sensor support fins. At least thats what matches the
pattern placement and the wrap.


I discovered this after I cut 1/32" sensor supports and the wrap
was obviously too big. NBD, easily corrected- there's plenty of
balsa provided.

ICK. I knew something like this would happen... (happened with the Tres also...)

I will hand correct the remaining documentation and get the sources fixed too. Thank you for finding this

jim

 

[slim_t]

Pippen;

What I do for curved fins is to cut just outside the pattern using fairly straight lines, and then sand it down to the curve shape.
It's easier to sand a curve than to cut one.
Hope this helps.

Tim

 

[brianc]

Seventeen (and this is just one side)! I think this is the most fillets I've ever layed down at one time...

 

[radiO]

dang, that model scares me! what level is it, anyways?

 

[brianc]

Originally posted by radiO
dang, that model scares me! what level is it, anyways?

I wouldn't let it scare you- it's actually a great build. Jim calls it "the high end
of level 3". I'm not sure I'd agree after going thru this far (I'd call it a high
level 2 or low 3, but that's just me).

The instructions are well laid out and broken into easy to do steps. It's not that
any one thing is very difficult, it's just there's a lot of things to do. Probably
the most difficult thing is the tube cutting and alignment/gluing. With my tip to use
a C11 or D12 motor as backing, the tube cutting really becomes simpler. That
leaves the tube alignment...

If you can cut balsa fins and handle Elmers glue, this kit is doable! Just remember
to take things slowly, and in comfortable chunks.

 

[jflis]

Originally posted by brianc
Seventeen (and this is just one side)! I think this is the most fillets I've ever layed down at one time...

Yea, that always kills me too, and I've built *four* of these things! LOL

Looking great too!

As for skill level, that is always such a tough call. SOmetime next year we are going to re-evaluate our skill level identification and probably change some kits, but the FarScape will stay 3 ...

 

[brianc]

Originally posted by brianc
If you're also building one, feel free to jump in - the more the merrier!

I know you're out there! How's everyone doing on their builds?