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For what it's worth, you can get one looking pretty close to right while also enabling much longer motors by making the angle a bit shallower between the motors and also scooching them up a little further relative to the base of the rocket. I did that for my upscale 54mm with a 6" diameter and was able to fit all the way up to the 6 grain 54 while still maintaining almost reasonable looks. My build thread is still somewhere in the archives here, but I'm sure all the photos and links are dead, but here's a video at least (and being as old as it is, it's potato quality but you can get the idea at least)@kuririn No. I MADE them longer because they otherwise only fit CTI 2 grain cases. I wanted 3 grain because I have 2 of those, and 2 AT 29/180s, and 2 AT 29/240s
I know it looks hokey. But think if I paint them like a candy cane???
For what it's worth, you can get one looking pretty close to right while also enabling much longer motors by making the angle a bit shallower between the motors and also scooching them up a little further relative to the base of the rocket. I did that for my upscale 54mm with a 6" diameter and was able to fit all the way up to the 6 grain 54 while still maintaining almost reasonable looks. My build thread is still somewhere in the archives here, but I'm sure all the photos and links are dead, but here's a video at least (and being as old as it is, it's potato quality but you can get the idea at least)
I'll see if I can find some better build pics to show what I'm talking about. Yours should still fly fine - the huge fins give these a ridiculous stability margin, but the long MMTs are prone to landing damage.
Looks fine from here!Two coats of filling primer. The glassing job is so getto/garbage I am not really worried about the finish. This is the first collision with FG cloth in years. Maybe the last for a while. I'd have been better off making thicker fins and using a Dremal to open up the slots in the aft CR.
No matter! I'll look the part from 50 or 60 feet (15 to 20m).
Hi Sandy!Looks fine from here!
As far as the fiberglass job, it looks to me like you used a nice lightweight weave and it looks like you applied it well without a bunch of bubbles etc. It appears that the glass could be a tiny bit dry, but maybe I'm wrong.
The method I was instructed in involved getting more of the glass outside the area wet and trimming it off with a hobby knife when it was 'green' ( somewhat like leather, still pliable, but not floppy).
Unless it was such a pain that you simply don't want to mess with it anymore, I think you're on a good track for proper use of fiberglass for this size rocket. Too many people use too much epoxy and cloth that is too thick. Seems like you are on the right track. For sure, I am no expert, though. . .
Sandy.
Sounds like you're doing at least as well as I would have (not saying a whole lot. . .) but the important part is that it is going to be a workhorse, I bet. The Deuce design is so great and the fiberglass/other work you've put in means that if it deploys in a reasonable/marginal way, it will fly the same day if desired.Hi Sandy!
That is virtually what I did. Trim while 'green'. It was easy to trim, on the fin edges anyway. Just a simple single edge razor blade and a slight sawing motion.
Honestly the cloth is so lightweight I doubt it'll do anything for the strength. The bubbles are not that bad. I laid down a bunch of bubbles with CA as I found them after the epoxy cured. Thing is, if I understand correctly, I can not 'sand away bubbles' otherwise you completely weaken the layup. I think I should have asked for someone to make me a ring to use 1/4" fins. But as I said, It'll look the part.
I ran over to Ace and picked up their blue and yellow rattle cans. I 'figured out', LOL, that the 'painting template' is one half of what is needed. The instructions really are not Flis instructions.But I get it. So I'll just go with the sheeps and do blue and yellow. I need a Ukraine logo for a fin or two.
So I am waiting for the primer to fully cure. Then shoot the yellow. Then mask. Seal the mask with a tad more yellow, then blue. I was hoping to maiden out near North Edwards AFB next weekend.... but that seems a tad aggressive right now.
This is the first kit I've paid more than $100 for in 10 years. Can't says as I'll do so again. Tho Mach One rocketry and Dragon Rocketry keep tempting me. I am running out of old astronomy stuff to sell!
Thanks for following along!
For what it's worth, you can get one looking pretty close to right while also enabling much longer motors by making the angle a bit shallower between the motors and also scooching them up a little further relative to the base of the rocket. I did that for my upscale 54mm with a 6" diameter and was able to fit all the way up to the 6 grain 54 while still maintaining almost reasonable looks. My build thread is still somewhere in the archives here, but I'm sure all the photos and links are dead, but here's a video at least (and being as old as it is, it's potato quality but you can get the idea at least)
I'll see if I can find some better build pics to show what I'm talking about. Yours should still fly fine - the huge fins give these a ridiculous stability margin, but the long MMTs are prone to landing damage.
Those were awesome flights!!!!!On my upscale Deuces, I reduce the cant angle so I could get 4 grain motors in instead of being limited to 2 grain motors. 11.5deg in the 54 mm and 12 deg in the 98 mm. They do fly on 1 motor but the 98 mm doesn't get high enough on 1 M1419 for the chutes to open before it hit the ground. I put a camera on the butt plate between the motors for a unique view.
To be clear... I don't mean not buying a Deuces 29 again, I mean paying that much for any kit period. Maybe everything is more expensive, but I just can't see (right now) paying more than $120 or so for some paper tubing, plastic, and wood. Especially since most 'kits' are just tubes, a nose cone, fins, and rings. Nothing else. I HAD to have the 29 Deuces because I could not find the rings and templates for a scratcher.This is the first kit I've paid more than $100 for in 10 years. Can't says as I'll do so again. Tho Mach One rocketry and Dragon Rocketry keep tempting me. I am running out of old astronomy stuff to sell!
Yes they do, and they even fly on one motor and then the other sometimes.They do fly on 1 motor
Here's a build thread for my 98 mm scratch build Deuce98. I've posted this before.To be clear... I don't mean not buying a Deuces 29 again, I mean paying that much for any kit period. Maybe everything is more expensive, but I just can't see (right now) paying more than $120 or so for some paper tubing, plastic, and wood. Especially since most 'kits' are just tubes, a nose cone, fins, and rings. Nothing else. I HAD to have the 29 Deuces because I could not find the rings and templates for a scratcher.
Let me get this straight... 10 years ago you built that massive Deuces 98 and used nothing but a DREMEL? No way. Ha ha... ya fooled me... No way... right?Here's a build thread for my 98 mm scratch build Deuce98. I've posted this before.
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/bigger-deuce.47449/ includes construction and first flight.
2 Dremels actually, burned one out. Also a hack saw with carbide grit blade for the motor tubes, a palm sander, and a jigsaw for cutting plywood. You would be amazed how fast a carbide rotary file and 60 grit sanding drum removes glassed cardboard and plywood.Let me get this straight... 10 years ago you built that massive Deuces 98 and used nothing but a DREMEL? No way. Ha ha... ya fooled me... No way... right?![]()
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I won't say that is amazing as you already know that. Those pictures of the tube areas hogged out of the fins???2 Dremels actually, burned one out. Also a hack saw with carbide grit blade for the motor tubes, a palm sander, and a jigsaw for cutting plywood. You would be amazed how fast a carbide rotary file and 60 grit sanding drum removes glassed cardboard and plywood.
How does working with the ink-jet vinyl compare to ink-jet waterslides?Put on my rendition of the decals. White ink-jet vinyl
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