Ok, I have a set of questions.... the software shows a reading for battery voltage. Great, but at what voltage does it stop working, and at what voltage do you normally go ahead and replace it?
I’d suggest a wrap of paper wadding around the Mini - little pouch secured with a bit of tape worked for me until I a bought one the Dino Chutes pouches.Whatcha think about this setup? 200# Kevlar (either that or 400# - that's all I have on hand!) Big 'O locking swivel connected to nose cone. I will also protect my precious w a pouch!
There is also a loop for the parachute attachment point - would the Mini ride better attached to this point instead?
View attachment 470743
I do have 4 - 1/16" holes just below the bottom of the nose cone on the smooth part of the sustainer. Trying to decide if I want to drill holes in my other rockets going to LDRS39a!
I thought I'd posted Russ' answer to this in one of the FlightSketch threads but didn't find it, so I'll put it here. I asked him about this in November of 2019 and this is what he wrote me in response:Ok, I have a set of questions.... the software shows a reading for battery voltage. Great, but at what voltage does it stop working, and at what voltage do you normally go ahead and replace it?
Russ Parrish email said:The flash memory is the limiting component as far as voltage goes. It is only rated down to 2.3V. It will likely continue to operate a little below that but not guaranteed. The voltage displayed will noticeably fluctuate with load since the cell has a relatively high internal resistance. The Bluetooth advertising interval has a random component to help avoid collisions with other devices so the voltage displayed is also somewhat random. The biggest load is erasing the memory when it is armed so if it can be armed, it will probably complete the flight if there is not too much delay before flying.
At room temp, the discharge curve gets pretty steep after about 2.5V. The cell also has a significant temperature dependance so is is normal to see a drop of several tenths just moving outside this time of year. The data sheet for the cell is linked below:
https://www.renata.com/fileadmin/downloads/productsheets/lithium/3V_lithium/CR1225.pdf
It probably won't. The fleece pouches my wife makes for them limits them to BT-50 or larger and the stuff DinoChutes uses for pouches is much stiffer. In BT-20 I just wrap a little wadding around one....but I don't think I've ever flown one outside a dedicated compartment in a BT-20-based model.Hmm, I'm going to have mine in an hour or so, and I ordered the pouch with it, but does it still fit in an 18mm tube with the pouch? Guess I'll let everyone know if someone else doesn't answer!
Interesting. You can certainly see the pressure spikes affecting the vertical velocity calculation, but I wonder why all the pressure spikes on descent? I'm sure a dedicated compartment is superior (and you could really deal with the orientation issue I mentioned above), but I don't get those pressure spikes on descent.The sensor is sensitive to direct sunlight and pressure shock from the ejection. The pouch protects the altimeter from the sunlight but not the pressure shock. Now I'm wondering if a BT-20 with masking tape on the ends would protect from pressure shock or if it has to be a thin bulkhead?
No pouch used: https://flightsketch.com/flights/1665/
I am of the opinion that simple electronics should not need a manual. Plus the print is so small and my eyes are old. The app lets you turn it off, I use the app to turn it off, which makes perfect sense after you download the data and upload to the cloud.That is incorrect. If it is on, hold the power button until the LED flashes, then release - about three seconds. You can turn it off with the app, but it is not the only way. This is the back of the card that was in the bag with the Mini:
View attachment 470723
You may turn an FS Mini off with the app, but that is not the only way it can be done regardless of your opinion on how it should be done.You don't turn the Mini off with the switch, you turn it off with the app.
Well, perhaps as an academic exercise, sure. As a practical at-the-flying-field matter, however, the Comp is pushing the limits of something that I can handle and package in a model without fear of simply fumbling it onto the ground and loosing it because it’s so small already.
That's interesting because how was flightsketch able to ship you a mini with a CR1225 battery in it?So I'm confused. I can't buy CR1225 batteries from Amazon (overseas) but I can buy BR1225. I went to the local battery store and they have BR1225 but not CR1225. They said the difference is the CR1225 are 48 mAh and the BR1225 are 50 mAh. They said they're the same but the BR can take higher temperatures. Why can Amazon ship the BR and not the CR? Will a BR1225 work in the Mini?
I actually lost one (the one in the pictures, actually) for a time yesterday, right on the table I was using at the flying field. I set it down while reaching for wadding to wrap it in and once I got the wadding I didn’t see it. I thought it had blown off the table in a gust so my wife and I searched around on the grass around the table to no avail. Fortunately, I’d already plugged in the cell, so the altimeter was on, and I soon found that by using the signal strength on the app display that it wasn’t on the ground, it was somewhere on the table top. But where?? In short, we finally found it, sandwiched in between the pages of my log book. I’d set it down in the book, and the wind had blown some pages over it. The signal strength display, fortunately, had led me to look at the notebook:
View attachment 471513
I'm hoping Russ (FlightSketch) responds about the BR1225 battery and you can use that. In the meantime I'd say check on eBay and other online vendors.I could always try eBay. The sellers have no regard for ATF... I mean DOT rules for shipping materials.
Jim,Hi Bernard,
Are you flying the comp in a payload bay or on a Kevlar leash in the main body ?
Have you flown any flights with a second altimeter to compare results ? Looking forward to flying the comp version with a phone app ! Yay Flight Sketch!
Jim
That IS confusing. A quick search yielded this: https://www.reference.com/world-view/equivalent-cr1225-battery-6c5a99e09724d509So I'm confused. I can't buy CR1225 batteries from Amazon (overseas) but I can buy BR1225. I went to the local battery store and they have BR1225 but not CR1225. They said the difference is the CR1225 are 48 mAh and the BR1225 are 50 mAh. They said they're the same but the BR can take higher temperatures. Why can Amazon ship the BR and not the CR? Will a BR1225 work in the Mini?
That IS confusing. A quick search yielded this: https://www.reference.com/world-view/equivalent-cr1225-battery-6c5a99e09724d509
This suggests you should grab a BR1225 from your local supplier and give it a try. But, looking closer I find...
In an Amazon review of Energizer BR1225s there's this:
View attachment 471884
I know the FS Mini has widely ranging current demands depending on what it's doing. That may make the BR1225 unsuitable. Here's a BR1225 data sheet: https://industrial.panasonic.com/cdbs/www-data/pdf2/AAA4000/AAA4000C206.pdf
Here's the data sheet for the Renata cell Russ uses (and that I buy as replacements on Amazon): https://www.renatabatteries.us/sites/default/files/2017-12/CR1225_data_sheet_v07.pdf
Note that the Renata cell can support over 30x the continuous discharge current.
Certainly you can get CR type coin cells in the more common sizes used in car key fobs and such (2025s, 2032s), so there must be a way to get them to Hawaii. But maybe Amazon won't do it. I know when I get CR1225s or CR1025s (FireFly, MicroPeak) from Amazon they come in a way oversized box with the lithium battery warning label on it.
If they are the same physical size and the same voltage, they will be interchangeable. The are likely squeezing a bit more capacity in the form factor by making the barrier material between anode and cathode layers slightly thinner.You know, that's interesting. I needed CR1225 batteries for my Swiss Army knife a couple years back and couldn't find them then, either. At least the BR's have 2 additional mAh's. I don't know why they wouldn't work if they are the same size, maybe different chemistry?
ETA: Good point, @TigerHawk. I hadn't thought of it from that aspect!
I dunno, Mike. The data sheet an review seem to indicate that the BR1225's are current-limited. All the voltage, not enough milliamps. Maybe we can start having battery threads alongside epoxy threads!If they are the same physical size and the same voltage, they will be interchangeable. The are likely squeezing a bit more capacity in the form factor by making the barrier material between anode and cathode layers slightly thinner.
I dunno about sending them to "Har-wy-ire" (my granddad was from West Virginia!), but I can get them delivered for free:
Wally World CR1225 - a buck a piece...
That's Insten, don't know how good they are. EverReady is $4.99 for 2.
BEC's data sheet seems to indicate that the BR's can't supply the current.
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