Fixing chrome paint

[BsSmith]

How do you fix chrome paint that has been damaged from masking? I masked this Duplicolor chrome paint too early (a week after it was put on) and it tured from very shiny to what you see in the picture. I still have to mask it off again with vinyl to put another detail on the fin. The last time I masked off the chrome with vinyl (for the scissors above the writing, I changed that to aluminium tape) it nearly destroyed the finish. That was a month ago, but it will probably happen again. Is there any way to restore a chrome finish without recoating it? I've had lick restoring gloss in the black paint by wet sanding it and clear coating, but will it work for chrome?

 

[troj]

I think you're going to have to repaint -- metallics are touchy. Next time, I'd put a coat of clear over it before using masking tape.

-Kevin

 

[stantonjtroy]

Ditto what troj said. Additionally you might try here:
https://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/kc/killerchrome.htm

FWIW

 

[dixontj93060]

Or, you could do as I do (after much similar frustrations) always plan a paint scheme that allows you to paint the chrome last. Then without touching apply a compatible clear coat.

I think you're going to have to repaint -- metallics are touchy. Next time, I'd put a coat of clear over it before using masking tape.

-Kevin

 

[bguffer]

Was this the lengthy discussion from the old forum about not clear coating over chrome and the search for a compatible clear?
https://www.rocketryforumarchive.com/showthread.php?t=40108

If i recall correctly, Troy's suggestion works but is expensive.

 

[mjennings]

Since it is a small area you could get a silver/chrome roll of MonoKote, or a trim sheet (that be less expensive) and cover the fins. And unlike paint it wont get foggy when you touch it. You might have to sand the old chrome off, not sure how well MonoKote sticks to painted surfaces.

 

[stantonjtroy]

Was this the lengthy discussion from the old forum about not clear coating over chrome and the search for a compatible clear?
https://www.rocketryforumarchive.com/showthread.php?t=40108

If i recall correctly, Troy's suggestion works but is expensive.

It is a little. About $35.00 a can. One would have to determine for oneself if it is worth it. Truth be told I havn't tried it yet though I plan to. That and the Iridite finish.

 

[Micromeister]

There is to this day NOTHING that can be applied over any Spraycan Chrome paint that will not turn it instantly GREY.

To the very best of my research and knowledge there is only one "sparycan" Chrome that can be protected. that is Alsa Corps, Killer Chrome Kit that retails currently for 115 buck for the (3) 12oz can kit.

other then that there is simply no way to touch chrome spary paints. even our fingers dull the finish.

 

[MaxQ]

There is to this day NOTHING that can be applied over any Spraycan Chrome paint that will not turn it instantly GREY.

To the very best of my research and knowledge there is only one "sparycan" Chrome that can be protected. that is Alsa Corps, Killer Chrome Kit that retails currently for 115 buck for the (3) 12oz can kit.

other then that there is simply no way to touch chrome spary paints. even our fingers dull the finish.

Some chrome paint you can't even touch...EVER.
I redid my Loc Caliber twice...with Rustoleum Chrome Silver.
Most beautiful chrome finish I had ever seen...
It NEVER cured.

 

[stantonjtroy]

There is one sorta option. Testors makes a buffable metalizer and sealer. Not a true chrome but better than a metalic silver and it holds up fairly well by my experience.

 

[chrisudy]

Has anyone tried the Testors Model Masters auto lacquer? It's a two step system with the base and clear coats... They do have metallic colors.

 

[Micromeister]

Lets be very Clear here:
We are discussing ONLY Mirror Chrome finished spray can applied Paints or finishes. Metallics, burnished paints and other silvered colors are not the problem. Just about of the many spray can matallics are just fine. it is ONLY Chrome or any Mirrored spary can finish that can't be covered, clear coated or protected in any way. Yes Model Masters Chrome lacquer was part of the testing. As MaxQ mentioned some never completely set up at all, while others tarnish with the slightest touch from the oils in our fingers.
I spent a small fortune, about 16-18 hours and a ton or research time going over every type and brand of "Chrome" finish on the market over the 2008 winter. With the exception of Alsa "Killer Chrome kit" system. I can safely say there is NO Handleable Chrome finish. Allowing a painted chrome finish to set for several months before handleing didn't make much difference prehaps if allowed to set for a year or so they might harden up enough to allow minor handleing with white cotton gloves. I still can not handle my Micro Dwindeled Dead Ringer that was finished a bit over 2 years ago

If your looking to mirror finish a model or part of a model the best I can suggest is bare metal foil, one of the many Chrome adhesive backed mylars on the market, I'd go with one of the thinner brands like Calon .002" thick which can be applied in sections and will to a small degree adhear to minor compound curves.

 

[BsSmith]

Does anybody have a picture of what Duplicolor chrome will look like after it's clear coated? I would think a silver color would look much better then an extremely shiny surface with fingerprints. The clear coat I'm using for it is the Effex too, so it will still look really nice. The aluminium tape is less shiny then the chrome paint too, so the clear coat could make it comparable to that.

 

[Micromeister]

Does anybody have a picture of what Duplicolor chrome will look like after it's clear coated? I would think a silver color would look much better then an extremely shiny surface with fingerprints. The clear coat I'm using for it is the Effex too, so it will still look really nice. The aluminium tape is less shiny then the chrome paint too, so the clear coat could make it comparable to that.

Sure:
This Deep Space Transport was the prettiest Mirrored finish model I'd every completed. applied the decals and sprayed it with Krylon Clear.......Instantly turned Dull Grey under the gloss clear coat which also dried semi-gloss

 

[Pem Tech]

Some chrome paint you can't even touch...EVER.
I redid my Loc Caliber twice...with Rustoleum Chrome Silver.
Most beautiful chrome finish I had ever seen...
It NEVER cured.

This has been our experience with chrome paints of all the brands we have tested. (We have not tested Duplicolor) Since a number of our kits are 50's sliver spaceships, and look GREAT in chrome, we have been struggling with this since before we opened. Chrome looks great until you touch it, look at it, beathe on it or talk about its mother. No matter how long we let the paint cure it will remain soft and touch sensitive. So, now I just repaint our chrome demo models before every event.

 

[jaz]

I tried Duplicolor chrome and never got it to work. It dulled and was so soft.

 

[Micromeister]

Personally I'd love to be able to afford to buy an Alsa corp. Killer Chrome kit. it's a 3part system that includes the BLACK base coat. silver metal flake, and Clear overcoat that holds everything together. I've seen first hand what a BEAUTIFUL Chroming job this stuff can do, but it's just way to darned expensive for my budget. Another thing to keep in mind should you decide to go that way. Once the 12oz cans are activated I seem to recall they have a very short shelf life. SO you should have a couple models prepared ahead of time and spray the cans empty to get your money's worth. Man...How many Chrome micros could I do????

 

[luke strawwalker]

There is one sorta option. Testors makes a buffable metalizer and sealer. Not a true chrome but better than a metalic silver and it holds up fairly well by my experience.

Anybody tried this that can post some pics of the results??

I was looking at that stuff at the LHS Saturday. It looks pretty interesting. In reading the back of the can I noticed that it said "to be applied directly to unpainted plastic. Do not use primer or apply over painted surfaces." There were also some notations about using their special cleaner to wash the airbrush, etc. IIRC said it needs 24 hours before buffing.

Now it also said on the front of the can that it was a lacquer... So, if it is, could it be applied over lacquer primer or a white lacquer basecoat?? Usually rockets just aren't smooth enough without primer/basecoat to really justify a 'bare' paintjob; certainly not as smooth as 'unpainted plastic'. I presume the warnings are because the stuff uses a pretty 'hot' solvent that will attack other primer/paint underneath it, but then again, to apply over 'unpainted plastic' the solvent couldn't be TOO TERRIBLY hot or it'd eat up the plastic, would it not??

Just curious if anyone has used this stuff, under what conditions, what they did, the results they got??

Thanks! OL JR

 

[luke strawwalker]

This has been our experience with chrome paints of all the brands we have tested. (We have not tested Duplicolor) Since a number of our kits are 50's sliver spaceships, and look GREAT in chrome, we have been struggling with this since before we opened. Chrome looks great until you touch it, look at it, beathe on it or talk about its mother. No matter how long we let the paint cure it will remain soft and touch sensitive. So, now I just repaint our chrome demo models before every event.

Cheater!!! :dark::neener: OL JR

 

[Micromeister]

I use the buffing Testors metallics on a good number of PMC and scale models. they have a really nice titanium buffing metallic that works well on afterburners and such. While they do buff up some NONE are anywhere close to being a mirror or chrome type finish. I'm looking to see if any show up well enough to post.

The Merc-Redstone..Doh! Atlas: used Testors Burnishing Stainless Steel.

The micro Nike-Apache use Titanium, Stainless Steel and Aluminum.

Vanguard TV4 burnishing Alumimum.

1/48th F100 used burnishing titanium on the control surfaces and some body panels over non-burnishing testors Model Master Alumimum.

Best Stainless Steel spay i've found was Old formula Testors model master Non-burnishing Stainless steel. used on the 110th scale Mercury-Atlas and launch complex parts.

 

[MaxQ]

This has been our experience with chrome paints of all the brands we have tested. (We have not tested Duplicolor) Since a number of our kits are 50's sliver spaceships, and look GREAT in chrome, we have been struggling with this since before we opened. Chrome looks great until you touch it, look at it, beathe on it or talk about its mother. No matter how long we let the paint cure it will remain soft and touch sensitive. So, now I just repaint our chrome demo models before every event.

Your kits look great and even better with a shiny finish.


I absolutley LOVED Krylon Chrome paint...(old formula).
I did my Little Big Joe II with it.............
It held up pretty well. I never clear coated it.

If I ever see that paint again...I'll buy it straight away.
....no such luck.

 

[luke strawwalker]

I use the buffing Testors metallics on a good number of PMC and scale models. they have a really nice titanium buffing metallic that works well on afterburners and such. While they do buff up some NONE are anywhere close to being a mirror or chrome type finish. I'm looking to see if any show up well enough to post.

The Merc-Redstone used Testors Burnishing Stainless Steel.

The micro Nike-Apache use Titanium, Stainless Steel and Aluminum.

Vanguard TV4 burnishing Alumimum.

1/48th F100 used burnishing titanium on the control surfaces and some body panels over non-burnishing testors Model Master Alumimum.

Best Stainless Steel spay i've found was Old formula Testors model master Non-burnishing Stainless steel. used on the 110th scale Mercury-Atlas and launch complex parts.

Those look good John... I like the Merc-Atlases (took it you didn't really mean REDSTONE on the first one) and especially the Vanguard.

I bet these look even better to the eye than the pics do-- pics don't usually do the finish justice, IMHO... the eye pics up the subtleties and effects that cameras just don't...

Thanks! OL JR