Fired up my new launch controller with an E-match test.

[Curtis Enlow]

First test of my new home made LP/MP controller.

Test was made with a E-match and there is a metal staple or ferrule that shorts the leads after the E-match burns away the insulation, so the 'Continuity' LED did not extinguish after ignition, but did go out when the burned end and short are cut away. So I am confident all works as intended.

Thanks to everyone who gave advice and who have previously shared their own efforts and findings, you will no doubt recognize some of your own work in my own

 

[Art Upton]

Nice looking controller! Very Kewl !

E-matches are easy to lite however, you need to test how much current it can dump into high current ignitors as well however. What is the battery volts and current discharge specs you are using?

 

[Art Upton]

Try firing an Estes ignitor and then test if it can fire 3 of them in a cluster would be my next tests using 30 feet of lead wire to the ignitors like you would in the field.

 

[Curtis Enlow]

Nice looking controller! Very Kewl !

E-matches are easy to lite however, you need to test how much current it can dump into high current ignitors as well however. What is the battery volts and current discharge specs you are using?

Thanks! Yeah, need to get some proper igniters, but some kind & helpful (and not to mention, smarter) people than I have done the math and agree I should be good for single HP ignitions.

I am using a 12v. 5aH SLA. The entire path to ignition, battery, breaker and through the switches and out through 50' extension and pigtail is 14 AWG - silicone in the box and copper in the extension and pigtail. All the accessory circuits - indicator LEDs, battery meter, warning buzzer - are all parallel to the ignition path (except for the Continuity LED, of course).



This was made to go along with my new pad (No, not going to fly the extended DD LOC IV off it (at least, not without a rail extension), just thought it looked cool (rod launch adapter still needs the blast plate).