Finishing Gloss

goose_in_co

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I'm looking as well. My 15+ year old bottle of future will not leave a gloss finish anymore. On other forums one recommendation is Quick Shine Floor Finish. I am going to look for some and try it out on a couple of lesser builds to make sure that it work.
 
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Krylon makes a clear acrylic spray. If you want a really high gloss finish, I got a can of this at a local O'Reilly's auto store. I want to find more of it: Duplicolor 1KCG 1K Gloss Clear Coat Spray Paint Aerosol 12oz. High gloss stuff. Attached is a clip of my Der Big Red Max with a coat of Duplicolor CERAMIC engine paint (Chrysler Red) followed a couple days later with the Duplicolor 1K Clear Coat spray.
 

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Acrylic spray works great until it doesn't and crinkles the paint and decals. The only thing you can do then is put a large motor in and send it. That said, my Estes MR crinkled but has been very lucky and always comes back no matter how big of a motor I put into it.
 
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Acrylic spray works great until it doesn't and crinkles the paint and decals. The only thing you can do then is put a large motor in and send it. That said, my Estes MR crinkled but has been very lucky and always comes back no matter how big of a motor I put into it.
I've had mixed luck with acrylic sprays as well in the past. The Dupli-color paints have been the best I've used. I get them at local auto parts stores and they are not cheap--now $10-13 per can. ouch.
 

SolarYellow

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Acrylic spray works great until it doesn't and crinkles the paint and decals. The only thing you can do then is put a large motor in and send it. That said, my Estes MR crinkled but has been very lucky and always comes back no matter how big of a motor I put into it.

If you ever get tired of it, sand it down and refinish it nicely. Sure to vaporize on the next launch.
 

techrat

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I've done some research into this (well, anecdotal research)...., and I've determined that HUMIDITY causes paint to "craze" or crinkle, especially when you're applying clear coat. If you spray on a humid day your chances of crazing are high, if you spray on a low humidity day, you should be able to get away with it.
 

David Schwantz

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The models on here are beautiful. IMHO the best clear is 2 part auto paint. I use PPG Omni. Won't yellow over time, is pretty tough, very smooth. I know most do not have the equipment to spray it. I have seen somewhere there is a place that has it in a spray bomb. When you shake it, it mixes the 2 parts. All though, spraying this is not all that hard. Get a gun from Harbor Freight, Spray in your garage on a non windy day, night works well. Maybe lay down plastic you don't want over spray on. Always test, practice on scrap first.
 

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Krylon makes a clear acrylic spray. If you want a really high gloss finish, I got a can of this at a local O'Reilly's auto store. I want to find more of it: Duplicolor 1KCG 1K Gloss Clear Coat Spray Paint Aerosol 12oz. High gloss stuff. Attached is a clip of my Der Big Red Max with a coat of Duplicolor CERAMIC engine paint (Chrysler Red) followed a couple days later with the Duplicolor 1K Clear Coat spray.
Do you use sanding sealer or filler on the wood? Cremaic engine paint? Looks really nice, how many coats and what primer do you use? Looks awesome.
 

cautery

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2K clear coat in a can. I use it for lots of things. My 20 year old truck headlights/blinkers/markers look BRAND new after 3 years with 2K clear on top of my prep work. RODI water clear.
 
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Do you use sanding sealer or filler on the wood? Cremaic engine paint? Looks really nice, how many coats and what primer do you use? Looks awesome.
The fins in the picture are balsa core covered with cardstock paper. That aside, I seal balsa fins with either 2 coats sanding sealer (get small bottle at e-Rockets) or thin CA. For plywood, I don't seal at all. After sealing, I do 2-3 rounds of spraying with sandable primer followed by sanding it off with 220-400 grit paper. Then final coat of primer and on to finish paint. The Big DBRM above has two coats of dupli-color Chrysler Red- light coat followed by heavier one to get the paint to flow and smooth. The 1K Clear Coat was applied the same way two days later. Have not done any follow-on wet sanding/buffing.

The ceramic paint is made for high temp application to engines. I started using it because it came in bright orange, and I had a rocket I wanted to paint orange. So I discovered it by accident, but I really like the way this paint flows when you give it a heavy application. BTW, if you have a spray gun and the setup/PPE stuff, the automotive paints give excellent performance. I did an Aerotech rocket years ago with automotive paint and clear coat and it was smooth and hard. But you need respirator and tyvek overalls to safely use it because it had an activator that appeared to be similar to CA glue (cyanoacrylate).
 

neil_w

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I've done some research into this (well, anecdotal research)...., and I've determined that HUMIDITY causes paint to "craze" or crinkle, especially when you're applying clear coat. If you spray on a humid day your chances of crazing are high, if you spray on a low humidity day, you should be able to get away with it.
Well, Rusto specifies painting when humidity is less than 65%.... are you talking about having crazing problems when painting above or below that threshold?

For sure, dry weather is better for painting.
 

ksaves2

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The key to a gloss finish is use compatible color and clear coats and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I remember the instructions on my spray paint cans was to shoot additional color coats in 20 minutes. Then WAIT like 72 hours before shooting the clear. I always waited a week before shooting the clear coat. In the meantime there was always imperfections and runs in the color coat I had to wet sand out anyways.
I had the experience of crinkled color coats in the past. It was the time before I started reading the instructions on the cans!! Kurt
 
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The fins in the picture are balsa core covered with cardstock paper. That aside, I seal balsa fins with either 2 coats sanding sealer (get small bottle at e-Rockets) or thin CA. For plywood, I don't seal at all. After sealing, I do 2-3 rounds of spraying with sandable primer followed by sanding it off with 220-400 grit paper. Then final coat of primer and on to finish paint. The Big DBRM above has two coats of dupli-color Chrysler Red- light coat followed by heavier one to get the paint to flow and smooth. The 1K Clear Coat was applied the same way two days later. Have not done any follow-on wet sanding/buffing.

The ceramic paint is made for high temp application to engines. I started using it because it came in bright orange, and I had a rocket I wanted to paint orange. So I discovered it by accident, but I really like the way this paint flows when you give it a heavy application. BTW, if you have a spray gun and the setup/PPE stuff, the automotive paints give excellent performance. I did an Aerotech rocket years ago with automotive paint and clear coat and it was smooth and hard. But you need respirator and tyvek overalls to safely use it because it had an activator that appeared to be similar to CA glue (cyanoacrylate).
Thanks for the reply! I also like the wood to be smooth, I have been using wood filler and like it, I had used paper laminate before but didn't particularly appreciate how the edges were so fragile. Great tips I will be adding to my Rocketry painting skills, Definitely going to try the clear coat and the ceramic paint.
 

4regt4

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I too was a diehard Future/Pledge Revive It fanboy. Some of the plastic model guys have been touting this stuff:

View attachment 559414

I haven't tried it yet. Anymore, if a model doesn't have decals to protect, I let the gloss from Rusto or Krylon speak for itself.
Also discussed in this thread:
//www.rocketryforum.com/threads/the-future-of-future.171043/#post-2242720
I like that it's gluten free. Next time I drink a bottle of floor polish, this will be my go-to.

Hans,.
 

samb

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I like that it's gluten free. Next time I drink a bottle of floor polish, this will be my go-to.

Hans,.
Very important. :) There's an old SNL sketch floating around about a floor cleaner/desert topping. The old Future had a very pleasant aroma.
 

BABAR

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I am with @ksaves2 on this one. Can’t speak about acrylic, but if you are using enamel, make SURE the undercoat is cured. This is not something you can rush. Three days is minimum, if you can wait 7, even better. Build something else while you are waiting.
 
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I am with @ksaves2 on this one. Can’t speak about acrylic, but if you are using enamel, make SURE the undercoat is cured. This is not something you can rush. Three days is minimum, if you can wait 7, even better. Build something else while you are waiting.
I have actually forgotten about an unfinished rocket because I was waiting for it to cure. 😊
 

lakeroadster

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Acrylic spray works great until it doesn't and crinkles the paint and decals. The only thing you can do then is put a large motor in and send it. That said, my Estes MR crinkled but has been very lucky and always comes back no matter how big of a motor I put into it.

That's weird? I thought the only time an Acrylic top coat was problematic was if it was over an acrylic base coat?


Paint Type Compatibility Chart.jpg
 
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