Finished Mercury Redstone (pics)

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Well-Known Member
Feb 16, 2009
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Randolph NJ
Finally got around to finishing this one and I must say it went together ok, but I would classify this as more of a skill level 3 than 2. Plastic parts fit together so-so, had to do some sanding. The things that gave me the most trouble were the escape tower and those god-awful sticker type decals. They suck in a big way, if anyone from Estes is listening! Bring back the waterslides, please! Tried to fly it yesterday but we got rained out.

So anyway here it is...
And the capsule detail. I painted the windowframes silver then after I applied the flat black to the capsule I used a thumbnail to scratch off the black around the windows to reveal the silver. The thing I flubbed on was my hurry to dullkote the model, and I laid it on too heavy in a humid garage. Whoops! Now the decals are "fogged up". Oh well, back to the drawing board!
looks fine to me!

I'd like to make an observation about decals and not directed at Glenn ,just a tip on decals.

the fogging(silvering) is caused by appling the decal to a non glossy surface...air will be trapped under the decal,, no way around it

please people, NEVER use a flat paint for something that will get a decal..I do not have (for this reason) a single can of flat paint in my inventory.. even on military type models I use gloss greens,tans,greys,whites, blacks .. ect.. apply the decals to a gloss surface.. than dull cote... you will be amazed at how well this will blend even a peel and stick decal and even better on waterslide.

I have plenty of messed up decal models myself before I learned the procedure.
I like your capsule detail. Nice job!

I love my Redstone. But, I had some frustrations with the plastic parts as well. Most notably:

1. Fins didn't fit all the way into the slots, had to be sanded down to fit all the way in.

2. Capsule pieces actually have a larger diameter when put together, than the capsule base. I noticed this when test fitting everything, and (gradually) shaved down the sides to fit.

I used the "Windex" method for the decals on this model w/ great success. You really need to use something like that to get the wrap pieces to look good.

The first time I worked with dullcote, I found that, since it doesn't "dull" until it's dry, it's very easy to use too much. If you get it on too thick, it does sand off pretty easily. Use a xtra fine grit to basically rub it off. (Almost like a "rinse & repeat")
This is supposed to be a quote from cbutler:
I used the "Windex" method for the decals on this model w/ great success. You really need to use something like that to get the wrap pieces to look good.

Just what exactly is the "windex" method? Haven't heard of that one before.
Fogged decals or not Glenn.. A great looking model!
If you have an auto paint supply dealing, 3M has a "finishing material" that MAY be of use on your fogged decals. it's called
Finesse-it II. smallest quantity is a Quart and it's about $26.00/qt but WELL Worth every single penny. I've taken the worst looking orange-peeled Krylon applied spray can finish and made it look like it was painted by an auto body shop. it take time but you'd be amazed at the effect. Finesse-it DOES remove a small amount of paint so some care must be taken in application and use
Heres where I think it will be of use to you. Finesse-it CANNOT be used an ANY Clearcoat material. NONE! it removes it completely! I'm not sure exactly why but a can confirm it well remove ANY Spary applied clear coat down to the original paint or decal. I completely cleaned off my old 1986 interceptor with the stuff. It does not effect printed (Slik Screened) decal Clear. so will clear you decals for another shot. also note all decals will yellow badly over time also. My old interceptor is now back to a beautiful High Gloss white with those Old nasty yellow decal:(
Hope this helps this is what the material looks like
Originally posted by kelltym88
Just what exactly is the "windex" method? Haven't heard of that one before.


If you spray a light amount of windex or similar window cleaner on the model prior to putting on the decal. This gives you the ability to work with the decal like a water-slide decal. Once you get it in place, work out any air bubbles you might have. I've used this method with good success, and it sure takes the frustration out of peel-and-stick decals. :)