Adding to that question, what satisfactory combinations of the following have been found?What do you guys use to fill the spirals? After many years of trying I still not satisfied how mine turn out.
do you fill the spirals before or after you glue the fins on?
What do you guys use to fill the spirals? After many years of trying I still not satisfied how mine turn out.
Use with adequate ventilation.3M 907 Bondo Glazing & Spot putty
ICardboard tubing usually must be dry-sanded, and most rattlecan primers I've tried do not dry-sand well even after weeks of drying; constant, rapid clogging of sandpaper. I tried drywall sanding screen, no better. I think some have mentioned wet-sanding cardboard but it's not worked for me. (ruined one rocket)
Best -- Terry
With regards to the rattle can primers, I've never really had an issue with them. Yes, they clog sandpaper when used dry, which is why I have huge stashes of sandpaper and throw them out as they become clogged while dry sanding. Used wet, it's different, but still I'm not shy about discarding a piece of sandpaper and grabbing a fresh one often.
Adding to that question, what satisfactory combinations of the following have been found?
Cardboard tubing and rattlecan primer
Cardboard tubing and other primer/ spiral filler
Phenolic and your favorite spiral filler of any sort (can be wet-sanded)
Cardboard tubing usually must be dry-sanded, and most rattlecan primers I've tried do not dry-sand well even after weeks of drying; constant, rapid clogging of sandpaper. I tried drywall sanding screen, no better. I think some have mentioned wet-sanding cardboard but it's not worked for me. (ruined one rocket)
Best -- Terry
Actually the grey does but not the red. I use the grey as a guide coat or the final coat of primer before painting.I
Try Duplcolr filler primer. It will not clog your sandpaper.
I can only tell you what I do. I slather with my index finger, and when there’s a coating on the tube I keep running my finger over it to smooth it out until the layer is very thin, or until the CWF is dry. The remaining very thin layer is quick and easy to sand with 400 grit paper.@neil_w mentioned coating the tube with his fingers, but how do you avoid built up spots and blotches? I too would like to do the whole tube as these Estes deals are full of tiny dents and dings that drive me batty more than the spirals do.
TTry using a maroon ScotchBrite pad. They are around 320 grit. And they are about 3/16-1/4" thick. Think 3D sandpaper. They don't fill up very fast & when they do you can rinse them in mineral spirits and blow them out.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-7447-Scot...words=scotch+brite+pads&qid=1593215369&sr=8-9
@Jozef I've taken pieces of body tube a little larger than the one I'm working one, sliced them in half, glue the two halves together and then glued a block of wood on the outside as a handle. Then I put a piece of ScothBrite pad on the inside and use the assembly to sand. Works pretty good.T
They work great.... but only issue is they do not level the surface imperfections on cardboard tubes. I use the fine gray pads before applying finish coats, but leveling the surface beyond filling spirals requires alternating primer coats and block sanding.... and time
@Jozef I've taken pieces of body tube a little larger than the one I'm working one, sliced them in half, glue the two halves together and then glued a block of wood on the outside as a handle. Then I put a piece of ScothBrite pad on the inside and use the assembly to sand. Works pretty good.
T
They work great.... but only issue is they do not level the surface imperfections on cardboard tubes. I use the fine gray pads before applying finish coats, but leveling the surface beyond filling spirals requires alternating primer coats and block sanding.... and time
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