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https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/what-are-you-printing-today.150480/post-2081587
Fiberglass 4" Honest John long build
- Thread starter FlyBy01
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Here's the original post:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/what-are-you-printing-today.150480/post-2081587
So this is about where I left off when we were hit with a winter storm that dumped 12" to 14" of wet snow on us and left us without power for four days. Needless to say we were literally in a survival position living off of camping gear to survive. This is a new picture that shows the final fillets on the motor tube.
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These are some pics of:
- Lab Rat Rocketry rail button mounts
- the top rail button Rocket-Epoxied into the body tube
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Rocket surgery time! I After the top rail button mount cures I am going to install the motor mount and needed away to get some epoxy just above the fn slots to epoxy in the middle, centering ring. Aero Poxy seems to be back-ordered by vendors and I decided to go with T-88 based upon similar quality as well as good price. Please drop a comment if you have ever done this method.
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thanks for the build pictures
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Cool deal. Big fan of T88. Will work well for you here.
Motor tube installed and I am very happy with T88.
I started by using a chopstick to mix the epoxy by volume per the directions of 10ml part A with 10ml part B (simple enough).
2. I used my heat gun very briefly to get things flowing (not in the T88 directions).
3. Using the chopstick I applied a good layer of T88 where the upper centering ring will be bonded.
4. Then the motor tube assembly was partially inserted into the body tube stopping just before the mid centering ring’s bonding area of the top of the fin root.
5. Using the syringe and syringe tube (pictured in post #64) T88 epoxy was sucked up and squeezed into the top of the fin slot and allowed to run down. I did this on all four fin slots.
6. The motor tube was further inserted slowly while turning the motor tube to allow epoxy to coat all contact surfaces until the motor tube was in its final position. All fins were inserted to ensure proper placement.
7. All excess epoxy was cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol.
8. This was probably unnecessary but I did it anyway. I slowly turned the body tube assembly for 45 minutes to ensure the epoxy did not pool in one place in the body tube creating a heavy spot.
Note: The T88 epoxy only went into the tube and NOT the main syringe, so I cut off the part of the hose that epoxy was in and have enough hose to use again.
I started by using a chopstick to mix the epoxy by volume per the directions of 10ml part A with 10ml part B (simple enough).
2. I used my heat gun very briefly to get things flowing (not in the T88 directions).
3. Using the chopstick I applied a good layer of T88 where the upper centering ring will be bonded.
4. Then the motor tube assembly was partially inserted into the body tube stopping just before the mid centering ring’s bonding area of the top of the fin root.
5. Using the syringe and syringe tube (pictured in post #64) T88 epoxy was sucked up and squeezed into the top of the fin slot and allowed to run down. I did this on all four fin slots.
6. The motor tube was further inserted slowly while turning the motor tube to allow epoxy to coat all contact surfaces until the motor tube was in its final position. All fins were inserted to ensure proper placement.
7. All excess epoxy was cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol.
8. This was probably unnecessary but I did it anyway. I slowly turned the body tube assembly for 45 minutes to ensure the epoxy did not pool in one place in the body tube creating a heavy spot.
Note: The T88 epoxy only went into the tube and NOT the main syringe, so I cut off the part of the hose that epoxy was in and have enough hose to use again.
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These pics are for newer or born again rocketeers. I want to show how the Kevlar harness is clocked to avoid the fin and rail button mounts. This is really important but rarely shown or discussed. Also use masking tape to protect the fin bonding surface while installing the Kevlar harness. This will save you unnecessary grinding time with a Dremel tool 
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Anyone have a Rocksim file for this Honest John?
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I'm working on one, a bit burried at work right now. I love how it shows a metal tip, mine doesn't have that.
Thanks!
terryg
Well-Known Member
This is the Rocksim file that I have.
Thanks!
Sometimes you just have to drill a hole
Last rail button hole drilled and all I need to do now is epoxy the rail button mount in. Picture is a bit skewed but it's within the margin of error. John will honestly slide easy. I did have to get standoffs which I'll put a photo in later.
Last rail button hole drilled and all I need to do now is epoxy the rail button mount in. Picture is a bit skewed but it's within the margin of error. John will honestly slide easy. I did have to get standoffs which I'll put a photo in later.Attachments
Thanks for the spin rocket source.
Got a set today. A little pricey but saves a lot of time trying to fab them.
I used some painters tape and a ruler to help position the last rail button mount. I double buttered the mount and body tube to ensure proper bonding. When in proper position the rail button screw was installed to secure the mount's position. 91% Isopropyl alcohol and nitrile glove was used to shape the seams.
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Overall the nose cone top half gained 116 grams / 4 oz of weight in epoxy and hardware. These are also pictures of each side where I used a dremel tool to grind off the remains of the bolt. I think I am good to go at this point for nose cone retention.
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So here is some bad news; I am on a long term business trip and I will not be able to resume the build for sometime. Thus the title "Long Build".
A little inspiration for ya....
Here's one I just finished;
Here's one I just finished;
It’s been awhile due all of the travel with work but here is the latest updates:
- Fins ON and filets done on the internal
- Starting prep work for external filets
- Some work on the avionics bay
- Nose cone is complete except for exterior finishing work and paint
The tail is sealed!
Fillets complete and figuring out where I want the shear pins.
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