Facing the next step with apprehension

[graylensman]

Somebody please tell me they launched an all-white V2 from White Sands!

Seriously, this will be my first-ever major test of masking and painting. Even though I could point out the godzillion flaws in the model, it's one of the best ones I've built yet (lots of time and pride gone into it) and I just don't want to eff it up so close to completion.

 

[graylensman]

forgot the pic.

 

[Micromeister]

Looks very good Greylensman:
I can't answer your question but I know someone who can, Paul Miller, V-2s are his passion, Bomarcs are mine Paul as books that show very single V-2 test flown from whitesands, and most of the german tests also
My Old 2.6" V-2 i'm very pleased to have had signed by both Vern Estes and G. Harry Stine. it will never fly again.

 

[Micromeister]

just got the answer for Paul! sorry Graylenman.. closest we can get to all white is white and black with some red lettering, launched from white sands.
He did give me a pretty neat web site ya might want to spend a day or to on https://www.v2rocket.com
has all the photos of all V-2's launched from Whitesands plus.

Hope this helps

 

[Fore Check]

I feel your pain, graylensman.

I have a clone sitting there - all parts in hand, ready to go. But I'm apprehensive to even *start* it because I know the paint job is going to be such a tremendous P.I.T.A. "Simple" black and white - just like yours (but a different rocket. )

 

[MetMan]

Step 1: Relax.

Step 2: Mask.

Step 3: Overspray the masked edge with the color you are covering--in this case white.

Steps 4-6: Spray on the black, wait a few minutes, and peel off the mask.

If you do find you've got some imperfections you can't stand, you can either use a black sharpie or black decal film (or just decal film spray painted black) to cover them. I've also used sprayed black decal film for the stripes on round TF-56 and some of the Bumpers.

Remarkable what we go through finishing these beasts, only to loft them to great heights and hope for soft landing...

MetMan

 

[Micromeister]

Matman and all us Model painters:
I have to intervene here: Yours is the second time I've seen the step 3 "overcoating the masking with the color your covering" recently.
while the method will work, this is not the best way to "seal" the edges of your masking and adds a good bit to your paint dam as well as the overall Paint weight on your model. Better to use a "matte clear" matters not who's testors or krylon Matte clear, whatever as long as it's a matte clear it's fine. Matte clear flashes off quicker then another coat of paint or other gloss materials, lessening the chance of lifting the brand new color coat just applied, It also has no pigments to possible make a wicking area for your next color coat.
A matte clear will allow closer inspection for imperfections and will allow wet sanding with ultrafine Scotchbright pads or 600grit wet/dry sandpaper to remove those nasty paintdams after final color coat application, as well as erase mistakes in detailing without attacking the underlying color coats.
Remove masking tapes as quickly as possible after the paint has flashed, "before it is completely dry and hard" pulling the tape as close to 180 degrees to the tape as possible to minimize lifting of the paint film.

 

[MetMan]

OK--what he said!

Anyway, if you can handle just painting the fins black, you could alsway model the Rocket Garder V2:

https://www.wsmr-history.org/V-2.htm

MetMan

 

[Fore Check]

Originally posted by Micromister
Matman and all us Model painters:
I have to intervene here: Yours is the second time I've seen the step 3 "overcoating the masking with the color your covering" recently.
while the method will work, this is not the best way to "seal" the edges of your masking and adds a good bit to your paint dam as well as the overall Paint weight on your model. Better to use a "matte clear" matters not who's testors or krylon Matte clear, whatever as long as it's a matte clear it's fine. Matte clear flashes off quicker then another coat of paint or other gloss materials, lessening the chance of lifting the brand new color coat just applied, It also has no pigments to possible make a wicking area for your next color coat.
A matte clear will allow closer inspection for imperfections and will allow wet sanding with ultrafine Scotchbright pads or 600grit wet/dry sandpaper to remove those nasty paintdams after final color coat application, as well as erase mistakes in detailing without attacking the underlying color coats.
Remove masking tapes as quickly as possible after the paint has flashed, "before it is completely dry and hard" pulling the tape as close to 180 degrees to the tape as possible to minimize lifting of the paint film.

Ok, you lost me on the "matte clear" bit. I thought clear coat(s) were the final step. Am I mistaken to think that you are writing to use matte clear in the masking process somehow?

I'm lost. Sorry.......

 

[Micromeister]

Fore check:
Yes that is exactly what I'm saying. Mind you I'm talking about MATTE Clear only.
I'm sure you and just about everyone out here has experenced tape lift During paint application. Doesn't matter what masking material you are using either.. Including Most of the Liquid masking films. a material called Gripmask is the only execption to this statement.
To remove the possibility of under wicking between color seperations there are two steps.
First apply a Overall light Matte clear coat "between" color coats. this process seals the color coat, protecting it from other colors applied in the wrong locations, glitches and the occasional Oop! with the brush or spraycan.
Second: after application of whatever masking tape, papers or film, a light coat of matte clear, specifically at the edges of the burnished down masking will seal and prevent under wicking when that next color is applied. This process is commonly used in SCALE modeling where many colors are used on the same area of the model. Built-up of layers isn't the problem one might think as the Matte clear dry film is only about half the thickness of a pigmented paint. Not to mention you will be Scotchbright sanding down some of these coating to remove the paint dam lines of the color coats.

The funny thing is I usually DO NOT finish clear coat any of my Detailed or Scale models
Heres an F100 that was spray can camo'ed with hand painted detials, if you run your hand over the model its as smooth as a baby's butt. Matte clear between coats is the key. Don't try to use this method over chrome or mirrored finished they have a totally different proceedure

Fore Check: In the Library section of Narhams.org under the heading Tech-Tips I have a series of articles detailing painting and finsihing proceedures from filling grain and tube seams to hand detail painting techniques. I believe they are Tech-Tips 002,003,004 and 005. Might be worth a read

 

[graylensman]

Thanks everyone for the tips and the reassurances. I think I've found the paint scheme I'm going to try. I don't want to wimp out on this - I feel it's important to stretch one's limits - I just knew I could find other people who would understand my feelings.

 

[Fore Check]

Originally posted by graylensman
Thanks everyone for the tips and the reassurances. I think I've found the paint scheme I'm going to try. I don't want to wimp out on this - I feel it's important to stretch one's limits - I just knew I could find other people who would understand my feelings.

Rest assured - we *all* obsess about such things...

 

[Micromeister]

Once you've done one or two Greylensman: you'll be muiti coloring everything...Watch out Kids you may be next

 

[DynaSoar]

"Somebody please tell me they launched an all-white V2 from White Sands!"

Pretty sure none were. Certainly none of the Bumpers.

Take heart. Some fins are all black, some are painted on top or bottom half. For the stripes (two circumbody bands with zig zag diagonals centered on the fins), definitely go with model striping tape. A clear spray coat over them will keep them in place. A non-glossy coat will preserve the realism. I use clear matte finish.