EZI-65 Build Question (Altimeter Bay)

[BRC]

I am building an EZI-65 (Loc Precision)..the instructions calls for epoxing (is that a word..??) the coupler tube into the payload side..I would like to put a bay into that side for a future level 2 flight...(This build is for level 1)..The question is do you think putting an empty bay in instead and screwing two blind nuts 180 degrees apart would be strong enough to withstand the recovery event...?? :blush:

 

[Papa Elf]

I just friction fit the coupler in mine with masking tape. Flown it on up to I's like that. I used the loc 4" alt bay for dual deployment with my ezi too, but I bolt the bay in for that (three bolts going into internal blind nuts)

 

[BRC]

I just friction fit the coupler in mine with masking tape. Flown it on up to I's like that. I used the loc 4" alt bay for dual deployment with my ezi too, but I bolt the bay in for that (three bolts going into internal blind nuts)

Great....Thanks !! :clap:

 

[JDcluster]

Tape in this case; is not your friend. No matter how tight it seems it will come loose or bind up when you least want it to. Get some plastic pop rivets from a Rocketry vendor or use Rubber Well nuts.


JD

 

[BRC]

Tape in this case; is not your friend. No matter how tight it seems it will come loose or bind up when you least want it to. Get some plastic pop rivets from a Rocketry vendor or use Rubber Well nuts.


JD

Im going the blind nut(s) route !!

 

[berlinetta]

I purchased the altimeter bay and an extension tube separately from the kit and what I did was use three bolts to hold it in. I have the stock payload section for single deployment flights. Here is a picture of my EZI-65 just before being flown on a J315.

https://api.ning.com/files/Pq-fApkk...cQA5EuJ-Jyp/IMGA0011.jpg?width=337&height=600

 

[sylvie369]

I use blind nuts as well. I drill my holes through both tubes at once, then insert the bolts from the outside, and screw the blind nuts on from the inside. Then I put a little masking tape over each (from the inside) to hold it in place and seal around it so that epoxy doesn't run out around it through the hole. Then a little piece of fiberglass cloth over it (with the nut part sticking through a little hole snipped in the cloth), and epoxy the glass to the inside of the tube. Everything holds in place quite well.

I would certainly not epoxy the coupler into the upper tube. You lose access to the top of the electronics bay, and make prep MUCH more difficult.

Plastic rivets would obviously be easier, but I'd be concerned when using shear pins up at the other end about which would break first. With t-nuts that's not a concern.

 

[Handeman]

I use a little different approach. I shape a 1" x 0.5" x0.25" piece of hardwood by rounding one face and glue it into the coupler tube (wood glue and clamp). I then drill the BT and coupler and use #8 round headed screws to attach the BT to the coupler.

 

[kandsrockets]

I use t-nuts epoxied to the inside of the coupler.