Estesbashers pulling carbon sleeves.

Discussion in 'Techniques' started by Estesbasher, Nov 3, 2018.

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  1. Nov 3, 2018 #1

    Estesbasher

    Estesbasher

    Estesbasher

    Well-Known Member

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    I've been pulling these sleeves for a few years now. And I thought I'd share when so many others have shared with me. I've always got some kind of enjoyment from coming in the forum and looking at all the builds the forum members have been doing. Along the way I've picked up some techniques from people. Even had a few good laughs. Many of you have seen some of my post on these little rockets I've been building. With these carbon sleeve you can come up with some real lite. IMG_3458.JPG And super strong rockets, as most of you already know. IMG_3462.JPG Here's some tubes from Balsa machine with the apogee nose cone. the tape give the length and gram of the tubes. IMG_3463.JPG The gig was built from some lumber from Home depot 8"x 1"x 8' the hardware also came from there. And believe me I was going to use all them screws from that box. The gig. IMG_3452.JPG One end is stationary. IMG_3456.JPG the other will slide back and forth for different sizes of tubes. IMG_3453.JPG The hardware is just some all thread and two short peaces of dowel with holes drilled through. IMG_3459.JPG The base of the gig was cut so the two bolts with the wing nuts could slide back and forth on the gig. IMG_3455.JPG IMG_3460.JPG Then only thing I wish I had done different is make the whole length of the gig longer. But when this was built I didn't even know if things were going to work. I cut all the parts to build this with one of them little table saws and the miter gauge. There should be enough info here for you to build one for yourself. But who knows you might come up with some thing better. Over the next few days I'm going to pull some sleeves and explain how I do it when I do it. Ha.
    Here's some of the tubes I'm going to pull. And the 2.65" I'm going to try. Never have done anything that size before. IMG_3464.JPG Going to start with my zipper repair BT-60 x38mm.
     
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  2. Nov 3, 2018 #2

    BDB

    BDB

    BDB

    Absent Minded Professor

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    Thanks for doing this. I’ve been wanting to ask how you lay up CF on those nose cones.
     
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  3. Nov 4, 2018 #3

    dhbarr

    dhbarr

    dhbarr

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    +1, thanks for doing all the hard work and taking pictures.
     
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  4. Nov 4, 2018 #4

    Estesbasher

    Estesbasher

    Estesbasher

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    I still have to show how to attach the nose cones and finish them off.
    dhbarr I thought you'd be one that would like this,I know how much you like MD. rockets.

    The sleeve Is from https://www.sollercomposites.com/ I found that you can use the 1.5" sleeve from the BT-60 down to the 24mm. Tubes. The carbon glass is stiffer than the carbon. You still can get a nice point on the nose. Not as strong as plan carbon. It's got a little more weight also. I've been using 635 epoxy from http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html When you get ready to attach the sleeve to the dowels it helps if every thing is level. IMG_3465.JPG Always take the precautions when working with epoxy, I found that you just can't measure a length of sleeve it's easier to just slide the tube into the sleeve then cut it to length. I'll make it about 4" longer on both ends. IMG_3467.JPG Don't worry about the frayed ends this will happen as you pull the hose clamps over the sleeves. IMG_3468.JPG When I pull the sleeve tight just run your hands over the sleeved tubes as you tightening the all thread. leaving it some what for loose applying the epoxy. IMG_3469.JPG let it sit for a few minutes. Give it time to soak in. Then pull it tight with the all thread. At one time I'd just use my fingers to twist the end at the tip of the nose cone.But I found if you take a little zip tie and put it on about a 1/2" up on the nose pulling it tight as you work your way to the tip and off the end try to keep the carbon straight as you do this. Once your have it off the tip, start twisting the dowel in front of the nose cone. IMG_3471.JPG You can really put a bind on it. then I'll step to the other end and twist it. In order to keep it from untwisting I'll just take a shim and smack it in behind the dowel. I've gone back an hour later to fine it;s untwisted and you want to keep things as tight as possible. IMG_3472.JPG let it dry. This is what you get when it's pulled from the jig. IMG_3473.JPG
     
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