- Sep 23, 2012
- Reaction score
Specifically - anybody ever upgrade to a 24mm engine mount? Thoughts?
That's my concern. After searching the forum (and EMRR) for any info on making this mod - I could only find instances where folks have used 18mm 'D' engines. I don't have an rms kit yet, but I keep seeing 'underpowered' in the descriptions of this kit.Originally posted by vjp
...A "D12" might be a little too hot for a light, delicate kit like the shuttle, otherwise.
Now you're talkin'!Originally posted by vjp
...I think an E9-4 would be a great choice, IF you can get it to fit. Perhaps removing the bottom of the nose cone would allow more room for a chute. The E9's going to take up a lot more room in the ET than a standard 70mm long motor...
Looking at the plans and the parts - it seems to me I can either use the stock centering rings - but enlarge the holes to accomodate an 'E'-sized engine tube, or make new ones altogether. I'm leaning towards making new centering rings rather than taking a chance on screwing up the stock ones just in case I might ever have a use for them.Originally posted by vjp
...I have a half-built space shuttle kit that I put a 24mm MMT in. ...
Okay! I've changed my mind - Estes C6-3 it is!Originally posted by Silverleaf
I'd successfully flown my Estes Shuttle kit # 1284 23 times, and never had a problem with bad flights on the recommended C6-3,
................................................She coasted down on the road, and in one fell swoop was crushed by one of those pickups with the dual wheels in the rear.
I hope they didn't charge you anything. You did use the recommended engine, after all...Called Christine and was told she had enough parts (she thought) for one final kit. Excluding the decals, she was correct..
This is part of the reason I had planned on the 24mm mod. I do want to use good, strong glues - and as with any scale-like model, (especially ones with appendages and protrusions sticking out all over the place) I tend to go overboard with the glue, thus sailing right past the estimated final weight.The point of this post is that you MUST build the shuttle with the best and strongest glues, and be very accurate about placement of the rear pop-in fin mounts - they are in my humble opinion, the main problematic area with this kit. ..
Well - you've sure given me some food for thought. I wish these things were easier to get ahold of - then I could just make one stock, and one not...A 24mm engine will really stress this "perfect balance" that the shuttle must maintain throughout the flight. ..
Which kit- the classic, the foam rear ejection one or the new one? Any of the 3 would probably be a relatively easy go if you've got R/C plane or glider building experience. The foam one would be the hardest to find space for the brick, battery and rudder servo. I would think as long as the balance is good for vertical lift off glider CG should be easy. Set it up as elevon and yank and bank to your hearts content.Has anyone ever attempted micro rc gear in the shuttle? A spectrum brick and 50ma cell would weigh less than the nose weight.