Estes Space Shuttle #1284 mods...

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Steve

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Specifically - anybody ever upgrade to a 24mm engine mount? Thoughts?

Thanks.

S..
 

GlennW

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I did not do that on mine but it wouldn't be a bad idea. Instead, I'll just have to wait for Aerotech or Quest to come out with new 18mm D's.

Glenn
 

vjp

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I have a half-built space shuttle kit that I put a 24mm MMT in. I'll probably add a few ounces of nose weight, not just for stability but also to slow it down a bit. A "D12" might be a little too hot for a light, delicate kit like the shuttle, otherwise.
 

Steve

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Originally posted by vjp
...A "D12" might be a little too hot for a light, delicate kit like the shuttle, otherwise.
That's my concern. After searching the forum (and EMRR) for any info on making this mod - I could only find instances where folks have used 18mm 'D' engines. I don't have an rms kit yet, but I keep seeing 'underpowered' in the descriptions of this kit.
What about one of those Estes 'C11' motors? Maybe even an 'E9' - don't they take off with a bit less punch than a 'D12'?
Or maybe I should just build it as light as I can and just go with the recommended motors...

S..
 

dtomko

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You're not gaining much with a C11 over a C6. I am using a 24 mm in my conversion to Energia/Buran, but it will be a heavier stack than the Estes shuttle. I think you will be OK if you build in more strength. For example, epoxy the SRBs on; at least once one of mine (on the original Estes stack) came off with a C5-3. I had only used white glue. Be sure to reinforce the shuttle parts with scrap styrene strips on the glue joints. I know I've seen reports of people flying it on a D; I just can't remember where.
Drew Tomko
 

rstaff3

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I assume that's the one I have. Its boost is so slow on a C6 that I don't know that much reinforcement is needed on the way up on a C11 or D12. On the way down you can always use a separate chute for the weighted nose.
 

vjp

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Drat, I thought I posted a response earlier, but it must've gotten lost.

Anyway - I think an E9-4 would be a great choice, IF you can get it to fit. Perhaps removing the bottom of the nose cone would allow more room for a chute. The E9's going to take up a lot more room in the ET than a standard 70mm long motor.

When, oh when will we have "G" class motors in MicroMax sizes? :D
 

jetra2

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Originally posted by vjp
When, oh when will we have "G" class motors in MicroMax sizes? :D
Soon as you can perfect the zinc-sulfur motor for that case! :D :p

Jason
 

Steve

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Originally posted by vjp
...I think an E9-4 would be a great choice, IF you can get it to fit. Perhaps removing the bottom of the nose cone would allow more room for a chute. The E9's going to take up a lot more room in the ET than a standard 70mm long motor...
Now you're talkin'!
I was hoping someone would say that. I haven't actually seen the kit, yet (eBay) - so I don't have the foggiest idea as to what I am up against, but I'm hoping it won't be much different than converting an Outlander to 24mm. Either way - I'll take pictures and notes and post 'em here in case anyone else might be interested.

S...
 

rstaff3

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Originally posted by vjp
When, oh when will we have "G" class motors in MicroMax sizes? :D
So how many inches long is that going to be ~384? (don't check the math, you get the picture!
 

Steve

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Originally posted by vjp
...I have a half-built space shuttle kit that I put a 24mm MMT in. ...
Looking at the plans and the parts - it seems to me I can either use the stock centering rings - but enlarge the holes to accomodate an 'E'-sized engine tube, or make new ones altogether. I'm leaning towards making new centering rings rather than taking a chance on screwing up the stock ones just in case I might ever have a use for them.

Any suggestions as to what material I should use - and where to get it?
Thanks.

S..
 

Zack Lau

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I use five ply bristol board purchased from Jerry's Artarama for making centering rings.
 

Silverleaf

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I'd successfully flown my Estes Shuttle kit # 1284 23 times, and never had a problem with bad flights on the recommended C6-3, and even flew it 3 times on the C5-3 - a mistake in my estimation by Estes to choose this engine - given the combined Shuttle's "farty" flight profile. Yes, thats my technical terminology there..lol

A year ago January, we had an 78 degree day here in Ohio, and I thought, she has to fly - one more time.

I sent her up on my last C6-3 and everything was perfect, till she nosed over (yes, nosed over) and never ejected. She coasted down on the road, and in one fell swoop was crushed by one of those pickups with the dual wheels in the rear.

Called Christine and was told she had enough parts (she thought) for one final kit. Excluding the decals, she was correct.

The point of this post is that you MUST build the shuttle with the best and strongest glues, and be very accurate about placement of the rear pop-in fin mounts - they are in my humble opinion, the main problematic area with this kit.

I hung the ET and SRB's seperately and found the balance point, then did the same for the shuttle by itself, and then did the kit together with the add-on fins and discovered there is a very fine line - we're talking 4 to 6 mm's that keeps this kit in balance throughout.

A 24mm engine will really stress this "perfect balance" that the shuttle must maintain throughout the flight.

This kit did fly 2 times on a Aerotech 18 MM reload, and I must confess, this is the engine of choice. Period.

Cheers,
 

Steve

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Originally posted by Silverleaf
I'd successfully flown my Estes Shuttle kit # 1284 23 times, and never had a problem with bad flights on the recommended C6-3,
Okay! I've changed my mind - Estes C6-3 it is!
She coasted down on the road, and in one fell swoop was crushed by one of those pickups with the dual wheels in the rear.
................................................ :eek:

Called Christine and was told she had enough parts (she thought) for one final kit. Excluding the decals, she was correct..
I hope they didn't charge you anything. You did use the recommended engine, after all... :)
The point of this post is that you MUST build the shuttle with the best and strongest glues, and be very accurate about placement of the rear pop-in fin mounts - they are in my humble opinion, the main problematic area with this kit. ..
This is part of the reason I had planned on the 24mm mod. I do want to use good, strong glues - and as with any scale-like model, (especially ones with appendages and protrusions sticking out all over the place) I tend to go overboard with the glue, thus sailing right past the estimated final weight.
A 24mm engine will really stress this "perfect balance" that the shuttle must maintain throughout the flight. ..
Well - you've sure given me some food for thought. I wish these things were easier to get ahold of - then I could just make one stock, and one not...

Thanks for the input!

S..
 

Silverleaf

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I hope they didn't charge you anything. You did use the recommended engine, after all...

Your correct. because the C6-3 never ejected, as soon as I told her that, she told me to give her a parts list and she would "go in the back room and see what she had available".

Christine is the best rocketry-customer service person I've ever spoken with. She knows her product, is kind and is willing to help you out when a problem arises. Best of all, she works at my favorite company. 8)

I've not done much with this kit, but have the Alumilite kit here to clone all the plastic parts, and perhaps - if everything works out, clone the shuttle body. This is all dependent if Drew Tomko makes a Energia Buran kit available (based on this same kit).

Psst Drew..you reading this ?..*Wink*

Glad I could help, and please let us know how you project fairs..8)

Cheers,
 

lw_hughes

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Has anyone ever attempted micro rc gear in the shuttle? A spectrum brick and 50ma cell would weigh less than the nose weight.
 

DRAGON64

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Sounds like you are contemplating an adventurous project.
 

James Harechmak

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Has anyone ever attempted micro rc gear in the shuttle? A spectrum brick and 50ma cell would weigh less than the nose weight.
Which kit- the classic, the foam rear ejection one or the new one? Any of the 3 would probably be a relatively easy go if you've got R/C plane or glider building experience. The foam one would be the hardest to find space for the brick, battery and rudder servo. I would think as long as the balance is good for vertical lift off glider CG should be easy. Set it up as elevon and yank and bank to your hearts content.
 

Charles_McG

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I have modified a Guillow’s glider as you described as part of a ~1/100 Shuttle stack.

I have an unbuilt #1284, but it’s in marginal condition so I decided to scratch build instead.

I loved the #1284 in my youth, and thought the flights were fine. But they aren’t long flights - RC might get you a turn back towards the launch area, but not much else.
 
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