Estes Saturn V #1969 Build - Let's share ideas and experiences...

Discussion in 'Mid Power Rocketry (MPR)' started by EeebeeE, Feb 8, 2019.

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  1. Mar 29, 2019 #91

    captbk

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    Anyone have a OP file for the newest 1969 model?
     
  2. Apr 19, 2019 #92

    mjennings

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    I recently emailed ESTES and they told me to use all 4 pats of clay
     
  3. Apr 19, 2019 #93

    SecondRow

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    One of us got some bad info from Estes, and I’m pretty sure it was me. I launched my Saturn V with the added weight in the nose cone on an E30-4 a few weeks ago and it was perfect. When I build my #1969, I will use all 4 pats of clay.
     
  4. Apr 22, 2019 #94

    Videolester

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    So .. bottom line .... Use all 4 pats ??????????
     
  5. Apr 22, 2019 #95

    SecondRow

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    That's what I think now.
     
  6. Apr 25, 2019 #96

    KenC

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    My build used the Estes 24mm screw on motor retainer. It's the same weight as the supplied engine clip material and is easier to install.
    Using 1010 rail buttons will allow less rod whip and a longer guided length to gain a stable speed . I mounted the buttons in the open base just above the bottom wrap. The second rail button is just above the top centering ring in the parachute compartment. I used weld nuts and 3/8" long nylon stand offs to clear the fin fairings from the 1010 rail. This also keeps the rocket from getting "rod rash" keeping the paint unscratched.
    I agree with using only epoxy on the centering rings, Titebond created three indents that were a pain to fill and finish.
    I also used card stock crescents epoxied to the fin fairings bottoms to clean up the imperfections in the styrene bases after attaching the fairings.
    I used only three of the clay pats and estimated the drag stabilization by adding a second set of wide fins at the base of the fins. See the posted screen shot. This gave me 1+ caliber of stability using Rocksim Ver 9.0
    Saturn Fairing Drag Estimate.JPG
    The maiden flight was perfect. No damage to the rocket except a minor scratch on one fin fairing base from landing on the gravel road. The flight was videoed and the link is below
     
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  7. Apr 25, 2019 #97

    mjennings

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    that's what I did and I added a bit extra, but I did some small mods Gussets on the top and bottom CRs and I'm adding balsa blocks with screw eyes instead of doing the folded tea bag shock cord mounts.

    Those who have flown it where does the CG sit?
     
  8. Apr 25, 2019 #98

    KenC

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    The CG from post 96, for the unloaded with parachutes Saturn V is 21" from the tip of the Command Module or about 24.5" to the tip of the LES. When I flew it it did have two Peeps in the parachute compartment too.
     
  9. Apr 26, 2019 #99

    mjennings

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    awesome thanks! Tonight's mission is finish attaching the wraps
     
  10. May 1, 2019 #100

    Videolester

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    People's thoughts please on the Estes recommended E12-4 motor for the 1969 Sat V ??? Is everyone getting good flights on that motor?
     
  11. May 1, 2019 #101

    Videolester

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    Launch rod specs .... Is a 36" 3/16ths rod adequate with a E12-4 ?? Not too worried about the E30-4.
     
  12. May 2, 2019 #102

    David Schwantz

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    I used a 36" 3/16th rod with a 29 mm F-67-9W. Flew off the rod great.
     
  13. May 2, 2019 #103

    Videolester

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    Planning on starting with an E12-4 ... then an E30-4. Should I be worried about a 36" 3/16ths rod ??
     
  14. May 2, 2019 #104

    Tyler P

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    I launched mine off a 36" rod. It had no issues getting up to speed with the E12-4.
     
  15. May 2, 2019 #105

    Videolester

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    Good to hear! Was it a 3/16th rod ??
     
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  16. May 2, 2019 #106

    Tyler P

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    Yes.
     
  17. May 2, 2019 #107

    Videolester

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    Even BETTER to hear !! Thanks !! ;);)
     
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  18. May 4, 2019 #108

    VonRecktofen

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    So I'm building my first ever Saturn V model for the 50th Anniv. flight, the new edition 1969 kit, and I'm wondering if I have to modify the coupler tube so that it will fit into the top of the main body tube.... It seems like it will be a very tight fit, has anyone had this experience yet? Should I cut a 32" or so out of it and re join it together to allow for a better fit, or should I just build it as is and sand it slightly smaller?
    Any suggestions from you folks who have already out one together would help...
    Thanks!

    Franz in NJ
     
  19. May 4, 2019 #109

    SecondRow

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    I don't think you need to cut it. I lightly sanded the forward end of the main tube. It fits fine now. The only ring that I cut a small piece out of was the reinforcing ring that goes in the aft end of the main tube. That one didn't even come close to fitting as is.
     
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  20. May 4, 2019 #110

    VonRecktofen

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    Thanks, that's what I was thinking about the reinforcing ring as well....Didn't seem like it would fit very well on it's own...
    What did you use to attach the wraps? I've got the P90 spray and I've got epoxy and CA as well...

    Thanks again!
    Franz
     
  21. May 4, 2019 #111

    SecondRow

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    I used the 3M 77. The wraps lifted at the corners a day later, so I used thin CA to keep them down. They haven’t come up since. Note that mine is the 2157 model, not the 1969.
     
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  22. May 4, 2019 #112

    VonRecktofen

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    Thanks!
     
  23. May 4, 2019 #113

    JDDICKERS

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    Good day all just getting back into rocketry after a long time out of the hobby. I am currently in the process of two Saturn builds a Apogee Saturn V and the 1969 Estes the Estes I am building the only change made is using the molded fins and fairing from Sirius rockets didn't like what came with the kit. I have a second 1969 kit to build. He are my thoughts on it. Using the motor pod from Boyce Aerospace with the 4 outer 18mm and 29mm center will use a 29mm motor tube with plywood center rings.
    Hope everyone has a successful flight with there's
    JD
     
  24. May 5, 2019 #114

    VonRecktofen

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    Well, I’m glad that’s over with! 3M 90 adhesive worked very well, started at the bottom and worked my way up to the top! Also did the wrap for the Little Joe II at the same time... Let’s see how strong this stuff is tomorrow after it cures!
    Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions!
    Franz in NJ
     
  25. May 5, 2019 #115

    KenC

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    I had to peel a layer of paper from the top of the body tube to allow enough room to use the static line from the service module loop. I was concerned because this didn't leave much thickness, however the rocket flew fine and showed no problems associated with the thin mouth. I did reinforce the remaining tube, with water thin CA . On my next build I will cut the coupler and fit it to the body tube to eliminate the issue..

    I didn't have trouble with the reinforcing ring since you can squeeze it to insert it into the bottom open bay. I also use epoxy to keep it from grabbing on insertion.
     
  26. May 5, 2019 #116

    OverTheTop

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    It will actually fit without any sanding (mine did anyway), if you are very careful how you fit the top section to the main BT. I thought I might have to sand, but it turned out to be not so bad.

    FYI, I am using BSI 30min epoxy to fit the wraps. I would like something a bit less tacky and more runny, but it is acceptable. I am also making some fluffy epoxy by using Q-Cell microballoons to reduce the density and using this to fill some of the larger features on the wraps. That should make them less prone to any dings on landing.

    I like how the wraps make a composite with the BT and give it some additional strength.
     
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  27. May 5, 2019 #117

    VonRecktofen

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    Here’s a picture of the wraps in place... IMG_2356.jpg IMG_2357.jpg
     
  28. May 5, 2019 #118

    David Schwantz

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    Does anyone have the CP location?
     
  29. May 12, 2019 #119

    lcorinth

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    I'm nearing the end of the build, and I gotta say, wow, what a kit! I even made some mistakes (my cuts on the fairings and the cutaway bit at the bottom were a bit rough), but unless you look closely, you don't really even see them.

    So, am I reading the instructions correctly, that the rocket is meant to come down in two pieces? Two chutes for the main body and one for the top section, hanging at an angle from the wire anchor?

    Are most of you doing this, or are you keeping the rocket in one piece? I suppose it might be better to have the top come down separately if you have the LES glued on, which I think I will. I'm just curious how others might deviate from the instructions here.
     
  30. May 13, 2019 #120

    David Schwantz

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    First flight I tried it stock, but it is designed for the upper section to come down flat. Lost my LES, which I kind of figured:(. So then I changed it to 2 Top Flight chutes and she comes down nose first now. Like that much better. Bottom section comes down bottom first.
     

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