Estes Saturn 1B: Build Tips and Advice Thread
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JPalmer621
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I also like to launch with an escape towers. I have secured extra capsules that I built them to survive the launch. I used small copper tubes to create the main structure of the LES. At the launch nobody sees the difference. Andrew it is important to have fun and not worry at the launch
BSNW
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Thanks, everyone for your kind words. As far as my "novel", I know I can be a little long-winded. But it is hard, to sum up, a conversation sometimes in a Tweet long post. I have never been a sound-bite kind of guy!
Please note that when I wrote post #145...it was my attempt at a little humor. I was kind of poking fun at myself and I was actually reconnecting with a time when I did not care if my rockets were not perfect (as they can be). I also know that this kit is a difficult finish job. I am looking forward to applying what I have learned on this thread (this is why I started it after all!) and build another one that is a little better. I am sure it will be an enjoyable build as well!
The thing about social media forums like this is that they tend to only show the "best work" of....anything. At some point I let it go and just had fun...even to poke a little fun at myself!
I am very happy with it....all things considered, and I am thankful for all the encouragement.
Happy launching all and have a great day everyone!
Andrew
As far as escape towers are concerned....I'm coating mine with a couple of coats of Bob Smith Industries 20 minute Finish Cure Epoxy. This stuff is slightly thicker than water, provides a great finish, adds very little weight and LOTS of strength to the fragile structure.
BSNW
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BSNW
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Great idea! Iam making a note to try this the next time I build one. I got to launch with the tower!
Andrew
Jimmy
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Mid section painting finally done. Masking this area is a real pain. Pics are in order as POS1 POS2 POS3 POS4. Next is the fin section. Hopefully it won’t be as difficult.
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Jimmy
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Just finished masking and painting the ‘fin can’. This was way easier without the fins in place. Frog tape again. It came out pretty good.
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Jimmy
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RCS pieces attached to the service module. This was done by simply pressing the pin located on the back of the RCS through the holes made through the wraparound guide earlier. Once in place a drop of CA was applied by toothpick on the inside of the service module tube. CA is nasty stuff. At the risk of sounding preachy I highly recommend safety glasses during use. It flicks easily to unwanted places.
Then I began fin prep. The roll pattern appears confusing at first but a closer look helps to make sense of it. One fin is entirely white and another is entirely black. I started painting those first. The remaining six will take longer to mask.
Then I began fin prep. The roll pattern appears confusing at first but a closer look helps to make sense of it. One fin is entirely white and another is entirely black. I started painting those first. The remaining six will take longer to mask.
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Jimmy
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Thanks NJRick! You’re right. It’s really easy to mix up the roll pattern especially when masking because you have to think opposite. Just finished painting the fins and they seem to have turned out well.
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Jimmy
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Engine hook notch cut out and engine mount tube installed into core tube. Friendly reminder to always do a dry test fit first before applying glue.
I don’t care for the newer, longer engine hooks so I trimmed it to normal length. No reason for this other than personal preference.
Big moment here. The lower assembly has been slid overtop the fuel/oxidizer tubes. Glad I decided to go for the Apollo 7 version. It has a sharp look. Next the two centering rings were glued in place. One on top of the tubes and the other at the end of the core tube.
I don’t care for the newer, longer engine hooks so I trimmed it to normal length. No reason for this other than personal preference.
Big moment here. The lower assembly has been slid overtop the fuel/oxidizer tubes. Glad I decided to go for the Apollo 7 version. It has a sharp look. Next the two centering rings were glued in place. One on top of the tubes and the other at the end of the core tube.
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SanRocketMan
Master Model Rocket Builder
I found this image and web site very helpful in building and detailing:
Saturn I Block I Profile
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SanRocketMan
Master Model Rocket Builder
Saturn I Block I Profile
SanRocketMan
Master Model Rocket Builder
Before you start to build your ESTES 007251 Saturn 1B visit www.heroicrelics.orgSaturn I Block I Profile
heroicrelics.org
SanRocketMan
Master Model Rocket Builder
General Saturn IB Diagrams
Jimmy
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Awesome! Thanks for the info! Fins have been glued on.
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Jimmy
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Question for anyone out there. In what position is the umbilical located? I see diagrams online with it at POS1 but it seems like it’s at POS3 in photographs. Can anyone clear this up for me?
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I believe that the umbilical is at Position II ( facing away from you in these views )
Note that, in the photo, Fins I & III are visible ( You are viewing Position IV )
Dave F.
Last edited:
SanRocketMan
Master Model Rocket Builder
I found this image and web site very helpful in building and detailing:
Saturn I Block I Profile
For the wrap guys....use epoxy and rubber bands. Soooo much easier!
You may want to sand the backside with 400 grit to give it some bite then wash the plastic wrap with some soapy water to remove any mold residue or oil. And use disposable gloves when applying the epoxy. Yes I know its heavy. Don't use the 5 minute type. You don't want to rush it. 20 or 60 minute epoxy or works fine. Apply it on both surfaces and then scrape it off with a small cardboard scraper. Don't get it into the corrugations! Use a small disposable foam brush to apply it to the areas that touch the body tube.
Using slow cure epoxy allows you to position the wrap exactly where you want it. And very importantly it lubricates the mating surface so that you get a tighter fit, and less air spaces. Rubber bands give you better tension around the wrap which you can't get by using tape across the seam.
I also use plastic glue along the seam to join the wrap to make it a single piece.
You may want to sand the backside with 400 grit to give it some bite then wash the plastic wrap with some soapy water to remove any mold residue or oil. And use disposable gloves when applying the epoxy. Yes I know its heavy. Don't use the 5 minute type. You don't want to rush it. 20 or 60 minute epoxy or works fine. Apply it on both surfaces and then scrape it off with a small cardboard scraper. Don't get it into the corrugations! Use a small disposable foam brush to apply it to the areas that touch the body tube.
Using slow cure epoxy allows you to position the wrap exactly where you want it. And very importantly it lubricates the mating surface so that you get a tighter fit, and less air spaces. Rubber bands give you better tension around the wrap which you can't get by using tape across the seam.
I also use plastic glue along the seam to join the wrap to make it a single piece.
