Estes Pro Series Terrier Sandhawk

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kuririn

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It occurred to me while putting on the decals that the Terrier booster is heavy so tumble recovery is not viable.
But if I try gap staging with BP motors then any recovery laundry would be in the way of the blowby gasses.
So the only way to successfully stage and recover this would be by electronic air start. Booster motor with delay and ejection charge kicking out the laundry, sustainer motor air started before that while coasting.
That will be for another build, I'll have to keep this as a single stager.
Well, there is another way.........
0806201204[1].jpg

Metal conduit inside booster. One end of fuse wedged in sustainer motor nozzle. Other end in the exhaust plume of the booster motor. Adjust length of fuse to timing required.
.........................
Nah.

Sanded the primer.
Shot some gloss white in the forward section and fin can plates.
No masking needed, the overspray will be covered by darker colors.

0806201302[1].jpg

I switched from Rusto to Krylon cuz of clogging problems with Rusto. So far no clogging with my Krylon cans but I must be doing something wrong. I'm not getting the "spit shine" glossiness from the Krylon gloss colors as I got from the Rusto. Gotta get some more red paint.
TBC.
 

Ez2cDave

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The weight of the Booster is not the only problem, with attempting Tumble Recovery.

It's long enough to stabilize and streamline in, either nose first or tail first, depending on how it balances out.

Dave F.
 

kuririn

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This thread is not dead, just hibernating. ;)
I had a little accident, and it took me nine months to figure out a solution.
0527210244[1].jpg


I brushed a drop of Plastruct Plastic Weld on and held it in position until the MEK evaporated, about a minute or two.

0527210252[1].jpg


All good.
Masked for the first second color.

0527210351[1].jpg


And sprayed

0527210355[1].jpg


At this point, not too worried about overspray.
Will touch up later.
Second third color in a few days.

0527210424[1].jpg


TBC
 
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K'Tesh

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Looks Good!!!

Nice thing about gloss paint is that decals adhere to it better (less silvering). After the decals dry you can always clear coat it with a matt clear (if you want). However, I'd strongly recommend using some sacrificial material (old rocket, scrap of cardboard, whatever) to test the paints, and decals (using any leftover decals you might have) compatibility. If the sample gets messed up, you're only out paint and some old unused decals.
 

kuririn

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Looks Good!!!

Nice thing about gloss paint is that decals adhere to it better (less silvering). After the decals dry you can always clear coat it with a matt clear (if you want). However, I'd strongly recommend using some sacrificial material (old rocket, scrap of cardboard, whatever) to test the paints, and decals (using any leftover decals you might have) compatibility. If the sample gets messed up, you're only out paint and some old unused decals.
Like they say, great minds think alike.
No decals on this Sandhawk upper stage, but I'm going to clear coat with Testors Dull-Kote.
After letting the gray dry for a few days, next will be detailing and brush touch up, then the clear coat.
 

K'Tesh

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Like they say, great minds think alike.
No decals on this Sandhawk upper stage, but I'm going to clear coat with Testors Dull-Kote.
After letting the gray dry for a few days, next will be detailing and brush touch up.
Did Testors ever solve the yellowing problem their clear coats had?
 

kuririn

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Did Testors ever solve the yellowing problem their clear coats had?
Ah, yes the yellowing problem. Forgot about that.
Reminds me of an Enterprise D I clear coated with Testors many years decades ago.
I think I'll switch to a different brand matte clear coat instead.
Speaking of Enterprise, a shot of my collection.
0610210825[1].jpg

NCC-1701, A, C, D, triple nacelled D, and E.

And the Enterprise NX-01.
0610210828[1].jpg


Couldn't get 'em all in one shot. 😁
The clear coat on the A and D are yellowed in areas, and the decals on the 40 something year old TOS Enterprise is also yellowing and fading.
And they are not directly exposed to UV light.
Anyhoo, I know there is a UV resistant clear gloss, is there a UV resistant matte or flat as well?
As old as some of them are, I think they're in decent shape.
Laters.
 

icyclops

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Is it the clear coat or the white plastic? I have many old space models that were molded in white from the 60’s, 70’s that yellowed...no clear coat on them. It seems the old models that i actually painted white, then clear coated to protect the decals did not yellow or not as much noticeable. The uv clearcoat paint from the 90’s to today show no signs of yellowing due to age or light exposure.

...may be the white plastic more than the light effecting the coating. However, my white painted rockets from the 80’s, 90’s show no discoloring from the Krylon clear and matte coatings and they are hit by light daily.....

i’m sure results will vary depending on the type of paint, but Krylon seemed to always work for me...
 

kuririn

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With the exception of the Enterprise 1701A and NX-01,most of them have been sprayed with a white enamel.
So while plastic does discolor when exposed to UV, the yellowing in my case is not the plastic.
The 1701D had the heaviest clear coating, and it is the most yellowed. So I'm pretty sure it's the clear coat.
Sign of aging. Like my teeth.
Nyuk nyuk.
 

K'Tesh

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Scans with a ruler could help me sim it... (jus' sayin)
 

K'Tesh

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I have an open box kit I could take some measurements from, if that would help.
I could still use measurements. I'd love to sim that.

I've got a sim of the nosecone already...
1627869679854.png
 
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