(Series to build a Skill Level 5 Estes Odyssey)
In Part 2, the 3 large fins were covered with typing paper, hardened with thin CA glue. There are also 2 small, surface mounted fins. I rounded the leading and trailing edges of those fins, then soaked them in thin CA as well. Next, they were sanded with 220 grit sandpaper and set aside until needed.
Next up is tubing preparation. As a rule, I always try to fill and smooth all external tubes prior to any assembly work. In addition, I always end-to-end sand motor tube(s) and centering rings. I find that paint adheres better to the rough surfaces. Ive remove tubing spiral with several different techniques, but I seem to come back to the good old spray-on sandable primer in a couple of paint-sand it off cycles. Always works for me. And Im lazyI use 120 grit paper in the pad sander to remove the primer, followed by a round of 220 grit paper to touch it up. I put the primer on in 2-3 coats before sanding, so 2 rounds of paint/sand usually gets the tube ready for paint. Ohmy favorite sandable primer right now comes from Advance Auto. Its Color Match brand. I hate Rust-Oleum Sandable primerIve thrown away 50% of those cans because they clogged, so Ive learned my lesson.
(left pic is ready to sand; right pic is after sanding is complete)
I cut and taped templates on the 2.5 inch tube and 1 inch tube, then marked them and cut out the fin slots for the 3 thru-the-wall fins. There are also 2 surface mount finsI decided to next finish the tube, reapply the template, mark and glue them later.
The 2.5 inch tube is visible for inspection on the inside as well, so I added thin CA to the inner spirals. I decided to try a little Squadron Green Putty on thosethey seemed rather deep. I only finished the interior spirals as far as you can see them. I also hardened all tubing edges with thin CA for better sanding/smoothing. For the 1 inch tube, all edges were hardened with thin CA, then taper was flattened on the large flat sandpaper sheet, and tubing interior was smoothed with 220 grit paper. I didn't see enough inner tube spiral to warrant filler on this tube.
I used a large sheet of 150 grit paper to rough sand the tapered cuts on the tubes, then laid on a sheet of 220 grit paper for the final pass. Its important to get the tapers all flatthey are very visible on this kit. Plus, they look cool. Reason enough to do them well.
marking and cutting the 1 inch and 2.5 inch tubes, using templates
After thin CA has hardened tubes, edges are squared up with 150 girt, then 220 grit paper.
3rd photo shows applied Squadron Green Putty to inside of 2.5 in tube before sanding
4th photo is 1 inch tube after thin CA application, prior to sanding edges and interior of tube.
5th photo is back of 1 inch tube after hardening and sanding with 150,220 paper on flat surface
Now, all tubes have spirals removed and have tapered cuts finished. We can next move to assembling the kit in earnest.
In Part 2, the 3 large fins were covered with typing paper, hardened with thin CA glue. There are also 2 small, surface mounted fins. I rounded the leading and trailing edges of those fins, then soaked them in thin CA as well. Next, they were sanded with 220 grit sandpaper and set aside until needed.
Next up is tubing preparation. As a rule, I always try to fill and smooth all external tubes prior to any assembly work. In addition, I always end-to-end sand motor tube(s) and centering rings. I find that paint adheres better to the rough surfaces. Ive remove tubing spiral with several different techniques, but I seem to come back to the good old spray-on sandable primer in a couple of paint-sand it off cycles. Always works for me. And Im lazyI use 120 grit paper in the pad sander to remove the primer, followed by a round of 220 grit paper to touch it up. I put the primer on in 2-3 coats before sanding, so 2 rounds of paint/sand usually gets the tube ready for paint. Ohmy favorite sandable primer right now comes from Advance Auto. Its Color Match brand. I hate Rust-Oleum Sandable primerIve thrown away 50% of those cans because they clogged, so Ive learned my lesson.
(left pic is ready to sand; right pic is after sanding is complete)
I cut and taped templates on the 2.5 inch tube and 1 inch tube, then marked them and cut out the fin slots for the 3 thru-the-wall fins. There are also 2 surface mount finsI decided to next finish the tube, reapply the template, mark and glue them later.
The 2.5 inch tube is visible for inspection on the inside as well, so I added thin CA to the inner spirals. I decided to try a little Squadron Green Putty on thosethey seemed rather deep. I only finished the interior spirals as far as you can see them. I also hardened all tubing edges with thin CA for better sanding/smoothing. For the 1 inch tube, all edges were hardened with thin CA, then taper was flattened on the large flat sandpaper sheet, and tubing interior was smoothed with 220 grit paper. I didn't see enough inner tube spiral to warrant filler on this tube.
I used a large sheet of 150 grit paper to rough sand the tapered cuts on the tubes, then laid on a sheet of 220 grit paper for the final pass. Its important to get the tapers all flatthey are very visible on this kit. Plus, they look cool. Reason enough to do them well.
marking and cutting the 1 inch and 2.5 inch tubes, using templates
After thin CA has hardened tubes, edges are squared up with 150 girt, then 220 grit paper.
3rd photo shows applied Squadron Green Putty to inside of 2.5 in tube before sanding
4th photo is 1 inch tube after thin CA application, prior to sanding edges and interior of tube.
5th photo is back of 1 inch tube after hardening and sanding with 150,220 paper on flat surface
Now, all tubes have spirals removed and have tapered cuts finished. We can next move to assembling the kit in earnest.
