Estes executioner build mods

[MOF410]

ok so I know this has been done a bunch of times and I've read some old posts, but please offer advice if u can.

Im newish to rocketry and im finally getting around to an executioner build. Any modifications I should plan for in this model?

I normally do small mods that fit my style best, maybe upsizing motor mount to fit wider range of motors, or different launch hardware, sometimes payload Bay. What are the normal mods for this kit?

As long as I can still get them on erockets I plan to build a couple, w a stretched version down the line. I hate when I build them stock and then after a few flights find improvements I could've made during construction. I'd rather catch this one up front.


Thanks for the help!

 

[Back_at_it]

Built with Epoxy.

Replaced the stock coupler with a 4 inch baffle from Apogee.

Extended the stuffer tube further up. The stuffer tube ends 1 inch below the baffle.

Eye bolt on the top ring of the baffle as a mounting point for 350# Kevlar line.

Replaced the shock cord with 10ft of 3/8 Elastic cord.

Only other mod was a 24mm screw on motor retainer.

Rockets been up about 6 times without an issue. It's a little on the heavy side for the D12-3. Flights are a bit of a nail biter but it's never failed. It's the ultimate expression of slow and low. Altimeter showed 176 ft.

E12-4 is just about perfect for 600ft flights and the E20-4 gives you about 900ft if you really want to put it up there.

 

[Bill S]

I'm getting ready to start one myself. I plan to convert it to a 29mm motor mount (have to remove a bit of the through the wall fin tab), install a BT-60 stuffer tube that goes a little beyond the coupler. Using #200 kevlar cord, in a removeable mount (plastic tube from the rear of the rocket through the centering rings, up the body and sticking out beyond the stuffer tube a little. Makes it much easier to replace the kevlar cord, should I ever need to.

 

[Super_Dave_47]

I put in an ejection baffle, since there's literally a ton of space in there. I also made it 10 inches longer by adding a payload bay.

 

[MOF410]

Thanks for responses. I am thinking of adding 12" to the BT, as I've had that recommended by others as well. Making it a payload bay w a bulkhead sounds like a plan. Neat place for altiemeter or wtv else.

24 vs 29mm MM...i think im gonna go 29mm. I had to order some 29mm tube for another motor mount and I also have extra screw on retainers so I might as well.

1010 button rails? Is that overkill?

Ejection baffle: this interests me. 1 of the things on my to do list are build a rocket w ejection baffle. I've done some research on them and designs but haven't settled on one yet. Maybe this should be the kit I do it on?

 

[o1d_dude]

Baffles are overrated.

 

[cerving]

Replace the balsa fins with light plywood or basswood. Swap out the centering rings for light ply. (BMS can take care of you on this). Replace the engine hook with a 24mm Estes screw-on retainer and lose the engine block so you can take bigger 24mm motors. It's still a "big but light" rocket if you do those... once you start swapping out body tubes for LOC and going 29mm you might as well just get another kit to begin with.

 

[Donnager]

1010 button rails? Is that overkill?

Not to me. Pretty much all my stuff that has a 29mm motor mount and a 38mm frame has rail buttons or conformal rail guides. I usually step from 3/16 lugs straight to 1010 rail guides. All the small ones have the conformal guide epoxied to the body tube, where I was concerned about screw heads/clearance, etc.

 

[BABAR]

This would be a beaut for rear eject, except you may want to skip the rail buttons if you go this route.

 

[MOF410]

So now im going back to maybe just 24mm...i think i have some screw on retainers in 24...maybe.
I can def swap fins and rings for stronger materials, I should have most of it on hand.

I like the rear eject idea, but I have another rear eject project going so I'll save that for another time.

 

[Back_at_it]

So now im going back to maybe just 24mm...i think i have some screw on retainers in 24...maybe.
I can def swap fins and rings for stronger materials, I should have most of it on hand.

I like the rear eject idea, but I have another rear eject project going so I'll save that for another time.

24mm is all you need in something like this unless you have a ton of room for recovery. I find that putting rockets up much more than 1000-1500 ft around here is just asking to lose something. The F44 from AT that will put a slightly modded Executioner up 1200Ft no problem at all.

As for the baffle. I would highly recommend it but I would say that you should simply buy the materials on your own and build them yourself after you are familiar with the concept. It's a whole lot cheaper when you buy the materials in bulk. I've been doing them in anything larger than BT50 as I simply don't want to use wadding anymore. I'm current working on a project where I created a baffle for New Way Excoct square body rocket. Should work out nicely.

 

[mbeels]

24mm is all you need in something like this unless you have a ton of room for recovery. I find that putting rockets up much more than 1000-1500 ft around here is just asking to lose something. The F44 from AT that will put a slightly modded Executioner up 1200Ft no problem at all.

Yeah, it would be a good candidate for flying on the range of reloads available for the 24/40 motor.

 

[MOF410]

I got the 24mm screw on retainer, and im working on the plywood centering rings. been working through a few diff ways to make them and I think I've finally got it. I wish I had more tube to add length but w/cost of tube + shipping I'm not sure I'll do it.

 

[Jozef]

With through the wall fins you really do not need ply centering rings in this light rocket. The rings and fins share the thrust load. You may consider papering the kit fins as an alternative to ply or bass wood. I fly a Big Daddy on CTI F50 skids regularly with these mods. Upgrade the recovery components with a long 1/8 kevlar harness. If you do a baffle attach it to a small eyebolt or glue the harness to the motor tube and though the ID of the forward CR.