Discussion in 'Low Power Rocketry (LPR)' started by EXPjawa, Jul 6, 2018.
And SALSA. Have a jar at work and may be sharing it today...
I've fallen into the cycle trap.
I got chips for the Pueblo salsa, but it ran out and there were chips left, so I got more salsa. Now the chips are gone and I still have salsa, so I'll need to get more chips.......
It just dawned on me while reading this....
So that's why hot dogs comes in packs of 10 but hot dog buns come in packs of 8.
Brilliant marketing. But as a consumer I'm kinda ticked off.
Getting back to the thread, try not to handle the metallic portion of the Alpha VI too much, it can wear off, especially the edges.
Or better yet sell the unopened kit 20 years from now on eBay and send your kid to college.
For the BBIII, I sanded one stock fin and one thicker fin, cut from the MM fin sheet scraps. The thicker fin shows the LE and TE tapers a little better as expected, really not a good photo here too narrow depth of focus, one set before sanding and one set after. But on the diameter body tube of the BBIII, the stock kit thinner fins just look right, the thicker ones are just a tad too thick. So, I will go with the stock fins on this one. Sanding the LE and TE tapers is not that hard. I copied reference lines from the fin template in the instructions and just sanded from there to the edges. So, two more fins to go.
Getting ready to paint the MM, after a few coats of Deft sanding sealer. I really liked the classic all-black scheme and original Mean Machine logo, even the updated one with the chomping letter "e" nibbling on the Estes logo. But, this is not your father's Mean Machine, and I will go with the new artwork, paint scheme and decals, in the stock kit.
Also got the BBIII nose and nozzle painted, and first coat of red. Starting to look like a rocket.
BBIII is getting there... I should have masked off the engine hook, the paint will probably chip off the metal anyway. On a recent mini Max build, I notice that the white decals show a light shade of pink over the red paint, they are not totally opaque. I might try to mask off and paint a white stripe and band on the BBIII, when I do the one fin, to go under where the decals go so the white decals don't look pink.
Kind of hard to tell on the facecard due to the perspective, but I think the color break line should be the twist-lock coupler seam. Just makes sense to avoid masking in the middle of the lower segment. The image appears that the blue portion is longer, but I think that is because the nose is closer in the picture and that part is exaggerated. I think the vintage solid black would tend to absorb a lot of heat in the sun on a launch day, probably a good idea to refresh the color scheme of this beast with some lighter shades.
Trying to figure out how to hold the MM for painting. I guess I can use a spent D engine casing (with the insert) mounted on a dowel and stick it in the ground for the lower portion, but I am going to have to make some kind of temporary engine mount for the upper part with the female side of the twist lock coupler to use the same technique. Or, just connect the two parts, and mask off the bottom in order to paint the top. I was kind of hoping to avoid having to mask and just paint each half separately its own color.
Has anyone else tried spray painting lately in the smoky air near the wildfires in the NW? Seems like you don't get as good of a glossy finish due to the particles in the air, or maybe that's just me. I need to sand and repaint the red on the BBIII after this smoke clears.
Yeah, my flyer (made two flights at NARAM-60, one before and one after, so far) is showing some wear from handling and landings.
Sure...... Anybody want to give me even one semester's tuition for an unopened Alpha IV? It's 20 years old now....
I fashioned a temporary engine mount that fits into the female twist lock coupler installed in the upper portion of the rocket. I made a cardstock 24mm engine mount tube, built a coupler-sized tube from a paper towel roll, and centering rings from cardboard in the recycle bin. So, now I can use my 24mm D engine casing on a dowel as a painting stick for the upper and the lower (which already has an engine mount) parts of the MM. I kind of like the new color scheme and decals and will go with that. That chomping "e" was really cool though.
I did not fill the tube spirals on the MM, that would be a pretty big job, but I did spackle the seams in between tubes at the glued-in coupler fixed joints. Planning ahead for sanding those seams, I deviated from the instructions when attaching the upper launch lug. Rather than glueing flush with the top edge of the tube, I recessed it about 1/4" from the end, so I could fill and sand that seam.
Then there is a also a seam between the exposed plastic ring of the twist-lock coupler and the cardboard tube to which it is mounted, not that pronounced of a seam, but I am afraid to try to seal it with anything like wood filler or spackle that might not stick to the plastic and just chip out later.
Going to let this first coat dry another day before sanding and re-coating. Wanted to get a picture side by side with my clone of the Centuri Thunder ROC, which was not born from the ashes, but rather the recycle bin. Birds of a feather. You may need to scroll down to see all of this.
I understand going with a non-black paint scheme on the Mean Machine, but am I the only one that misses that Mean Machine font logo decal? Even as a 13 year old, I loved that design. Still love it today.
Agreed, I am still on the fence about printing my own vintage "Mean Machine" decal, I might do that on the back side and use the stock new decal on the front. The new logo almost has a kind of zombie-vibe to it, and that may actually resonate with today's 13 year olds.
Trying to get all of these through the painting stage before doing any decals. BBIII got one white fin. I also got a standard Alpha kit, my first of those, need to paint one fin blue, and one more top coat of white on the bottom of the MM, then they will be ready for decals/stickers...Not sure if I will try to make an extra white decal to go under the BBIII decals, or mask and paint a white base layer. Seems like with the mini Max I built recently, the white decals over red paint show a hint of red and are not totally opaque white.
After sanding the first white coat, then hitting with another, I seem to have perfected the Rusto2X crinkle technique. I see more sanding in my future.
My stock Alpha build is cursed with the paint crinkle, a few little spots around the fins on the MM also decided to crinkle on me. Will just let those dry a few days and sand them down and try again. Decided to take the risk and put on a white color band the same width to cover under the decal at the top of the nose cone on the BBIII, that seemed to go on fine. Will do another white stripe along the body after this one dries totally.
I painted another light white stripe as a background for the decal strip on the BBIII. Will try to make one more rectangle as a background and border for the Canadian flag decal. Not sure if I want to try masking a paint circle for the NRC logo.
Finally got these through the paint stage to where they are ready for stickers/decals (well, the Alpha VI did not need painting). I almost gave up on the stock Alpha paint job due to the crazing/crinkling or whatever you call it, but just decided to let it dry a few more days, sand off as much as I could, and start over, really a pain, lots of sanding. I only had a few spots on the MM crinkle on me, and none at all on the BBIII. I painted the last of the white striped portions on the BBIII as a background for the white decal stripes and flag. MM is on a homebuilt stand I made from my painting dowel/engine casing and leftover scrap pine shelving board from a furniture project.
That's good looking work, Glen. Not for nothing, though, if you want to detail your build(s), I'd suggest starting your own build thread...
sorry, didn't mean to take your thread to Cuba.
Not a big deal here, since the original topic had run its course. But it would be easier for people to find your builds if they were there own threads, easier to search, easier to identify.
Separate names with a comma.