3D Printing Estes 1336 Cruise Missile

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almonster

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Hi. Total noobe to this forum.

When I was a kid, I had an Estes 1336 Cruise Missile model. Loved that thing but through time and a few moves as well as going to college, etc... My mom tossed all my old models. UGH.

Anyway, I'm pretty good at 3D modeling and wanted to buy a 1336 or the Centuri 5880 (same model) - but there are none to be found.

Does anyone have this model and can share a picture of how the hinge on the 2 tiny main wings work? Do the wings sit evenly or is one above the other? I don't remember, it's been ages since I've had mine.

Yellow Wings - when they are folded for flight.

Gray Wings - Extended for display.

If you have this model, please post a pic of the hinges (left and right).

Thanks!

Current progress below

ALCM-F360_V1.png
 
This is a picture of the real model. I can't find any reference pictures of the bottom and of the hinge itself.

2021-10-29 08_32_19-Window.png
 
My scans of the parts can be found on JimZ's site. I'm using my phone now so I can't give you the exact link
 
Thanks, that PDF is the cleanest one I've seen. I should be able to get that piece done. If anyone else has better drawings or pics, that would be super helpful. Trying to get it as close as I can. Added decals for S&Gs.
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It's been a long time since I flew a rocket - 10+ yrs. Estes C6-5 is the planned engine. Can anyone tell me if the motor swells after firing? Since it will be printed in ABS - no cardboard tube liner - I need enough gap so I can get the engine out. Also, If I were to do the cardboard tube with ABS rings to hold the tube in the airframe, what is the standard tube dimensions (diameter).
 
Great Project! You will want to have a cardboard stuffer tube. The motor will get warm enough to soften the plastic. It will fly fine, but the plastic will deform once the heat has time to transfer from the motor into the plastic. I would be interested in the Stl files if you willing to make them public.
 
That’s a great rendering. I’ve launched plenty of the real ones and I wish they looked like the prototype (AGM-86A) as opposed to what we ended up with(AGM-86B)! These look way cooler!
 
@Bravo52 - YOU LUCKY DOG! Off a B-52?

Here's the current render. Everything is done except shelling. I'm waiting on my motor mount and tube to come in so I can dimension them into the model. I hope everything fits! Otherwise, a lot of rework ahead.

Trying to make it "Low Vis". ;)

AGM-86A.png

AGM-86A-2.png
 
Yes, all of the launches were off a B-52. Ironically, I was also part of the program to modify B-1s to NOT launch ALCMs off that platform. Of course I only launched AGM-86Bs with a inert payload warhead (not a nuke) and then the fully leaded conventional AGM-86Cs.

You may try using a 1.2 mm wall thickness for your ALCM. That is +/- three layers on a standard printer using a .4 nozzle. Based on what I've read here, I used that to print many NCs and transitions and it's worked really well. No (minimum) distortion and plenty strong enough.

Look forward to seeing your first print!
 
So I printed a prototype and at 1.2mm wall thickness and 0% infill it seems kind of heavy. Printing the rest of the parts and will weigh it. This is without the nose cone ballast the original one had. Might go down to .8mm. I think 3D printed is "heavier" than old blow molded.
 
It's been a long time since I flew a rocket - 10+ yrs. Estes C6-5 is the planned engine. Can anyone tell me if the motor swells after firing? Since it will be printed in ABS - no cardboard tube liner - I need enough gap so I can get the engine out. Also, If I were to do the cardboard tube with ABS rings to hold the tube in the airframe, what is the standard tube dimensions (diameter).

BT-20, read this. http://www.hobbylinc.com/rockets/group/bodytube.htm

I've had great success with printed rings but cardboard tube.
 
So I printed a prototype and at 1.2mm wall thickness and 0% infill it seems kind of heavy. Printing the rest of the parts and will weigh it. This is without the nose cone ballast the original one had. Might go down to .8mm. I think 3D printed is "heavier" than old blow molded.
Might print just the NC at .8 and see how you like it. Printing lighter might not really be an issue since you will have an "unlimited" supply of parts as long as you have a printer and some PLA... ;)
 
Some more renders and pictures of the prototype print + decal sizing. Everything is done except the pitot tube which I might not bother with. The Estes had it in the middle but the real one had it on the left..... It's a PITA to fit a decal around the pitot. Decals are all re-drawn and vectorized.

ALCM-AGM86A.png

AGM86A-2.png

AGM86A-3.png
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The test print looks really good! Nice basic shape true to the original. It'll be interesting to see how it finishes out but just looking at it I'm sure it will fly!
 
Vector decals. Finally decals without all that bleed the original ones had. Bravo51 - are there any other Danger/Caution ones that I should add. It was hard finding good reference material.

Decal Mockup.jpgdanger.pngCaution2.png
 
Are these water slide decals you made? I can see the decal film on your final rocket. If so then a coat of clear should take care of that. If they are just vinyl clear stickers then forget I said anything. :)

If they are a test print on clear label paper then I say they look good…..print them on final decal film and apply…all is good.
 
Vector decals. Finally decals without all that bleed the original ones had. Bravo51 - are there any other Danger/Caution ones that I should add. It was hard finding good reference material.
The actual AGM-86B doesn't have a lot of markings on the missile (unless you are modeling a prototype). Since the -86A and -86B are drastically different missiles, the markings are not the same. What you've drawn for the -86A is awesome and doesn't need any other W,C or N (Warnings Caution or Notes). The -86B doesn't have all the colorful markings and just the basics.86.jpg
 
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Are these water slide decals you made? I can see the decal film on your final rocket. If so then a coat of clear should take care of that. If they are just vinyl clear stickers then forget I said anything. :)

If they are a test print on clear label paper then I say they look good…..print them on final decal film and apply…all is good.
Those are just printed on regular paper and taped on to see if the scaling is right. Post processing the body now and will model out a stand (kind of like the Centuri one).

After that, I'll work on a slightly upscaled one which is flyable. I need my motor mounts to come and see if it fits or if I need to upscale it.
 
So here's the thing about the 3D model so far. It's not hollow so you can't turn it into a rocket yet. I also haven't had time to model the nose cone so it slides into the inner tube. If you are up to some design work and or 3D Mesh editing, post again and I'll share it on Cults3D or Thingiverse. I'll post in the .zip the PDF of the decals. You can hollow the model to a 1.2mm wall thickness and then trim off the top. I have a slightly larger version that I'm working on so the rocket motor has an easier time fitting in. But unfortunately, my Esty store is taking up all my time and printers so I haven't had time to work on this for a couple of weeks.
 
I would work on the 3d mesh if you share it on Thingiverse and I will share it when I am done.
 
Just about any filament from a 3D printer (with the possible exception of LWPLA) will is heavy. Most of my success in 3D printed rocketry has been with either minimizing the parts that use plastic or just using D or E motors, which can lift a lot more weight.

If your intent is to make this bird an 18mm model, I'd recommend a core 18mm tube running up to the nosecone. The body of the rocket should be just the shell. Probably the easiest way to do this is to design the part with an indent showing where the body tube goes, print it at zero infill, and cut those indents out so you can put the body tube in. The regular body tube will go a long way in isolating heat from the motor/ejection from the plastic.

I'd make the fins out of balsa, which is much lighter and will likely negate needing nose weight (or at least minimize it).

Estes C motors max at 113g lift off weight, 20g of which is the motor, leaving you 93g to work with. I think it's possible, but it'll be tricky.
 
I was going to try and upscale it for 29mm and separate the nose from the body like the Centuri kit. I am just learning to design and 3d print.
 
Just about any filament from a 3D printer (with the possible exception of LWPLA) will is heavy.
True if you don't pay attention to the printing. There are several "light weight PLA" filaments out there and reducing wall thickness and layers can help as well. In fact ColorFab claims "up to" as 65% weight savings with their LW-PLA. (https://learn.colorfabb.com/lw-pla/) Look no further than the RC 3D print market to see what they are doing to reduce the weight of these types of bodies.

This rocket wasn't "light" to begin with back in the day when it was blow-molded out of plastic so I think it can be printed and flown on an 18mm motor. I would do exactly what you are recommending with the 18mm BT up the hoo-haa to the nose cone. 😁
 
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