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Emsmallening CTI ejection charges

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The EGE

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I'm planning to get a Pro38-1G reload case for use in my Mach Goon, to fly on a G115WT reload. Unfortunately, the ejection charge in all Pro38 reloads, as listed here, is 1.3 grams. That is far too much for a 3-ounce rocket with only 4" of recovery space, nearly all filled by wadding and streamer.

The instruction sheet says not to remove the white cap that holds the blackpowder in, but I see no other way. Is it safe to remove the cap, and if so how do I do it?
 

The EGE

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Ok, thanks guys. I just wanted to make sure it really was that simple.
 

MarkII

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If you wanted to use electronic deployment with your reload, you would have to pull the cap off and empty the ejection charge well anyway. Go ahead; I don't think that Jeroen will mind. :D

MarkII
 

powderburner

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Yes, I know that other brands of mid- and high-power motors routinely handle and load varying amounts of ejection blackpowder, BUT...

if this particular manufacturer specifically recommends not to do this (BTW, is that really true?), wouldn't removing the cap and changing the ejection load constitute "tampering" with the motor?

(isn't that a no-no?)
 

MarkII

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Yes, I know that other brands of mid- and high-power motors routinely handle and load varying amounts of ejection blackpowder, BUT...

if this particular manufacturer specifically recommends not to do this (BTW, is that really true?), wouldn't removing the cap and changing the ejection load constitute "tampering" with the motor?

(isn't that a no-no?)
It was mentioned in the instruction in my CTI reloads.

MarkII
 

ben_ullman

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Yes, I know that other brands of mid- and high-power motors routinely handle and load varying amounts of ejection blackpowder, BUT...

if this particular manufacturer specifically recommends not to do this (BTW, is that really true?), wouldn't removing the cap and changing the ejection load constitute "tampering" with the motor?

(isn't that a no-no?)
theres one in every crowd :rolleyes:
 

Fade_to_Black

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The biggest issue I see is the if you remove some of the BP, you'll have freespace under the cap that under negative G's *may* cause the BP to lose contact with the delay element. While I find that scenario unlikely, I would still recommend that you add a little wadding or dog barf on top of the BP before you seal it back up, "just in case".
 

The EGE

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The biggest issue I see is the if you remove some of the BP, you'll have freespace under the cap that under negative G's *may* cause the BP to lose contact with the delay element. While I find that scenario unlikely, I would still recommend that you add a little wadding or dog barf on top of the BP before you seal it back up, "just in case".
Thanks. I'll be sure to do that.
 

n3tjm

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The biggest issue I see is the if you remove some of the BP, you'll have freespace under the cap that under negative G's *may* cause the BP to lose contact with the delay element. While I find that scenario unlikely, I would still recommend that you add a little wadding or dog barf on top of the BP before you seal it back up, "just in case".
That is exactly why. I had several failed ejections occur with kosdon motors till I realized that was what was happening. Wadding and tape above the charge solved that problem.
 
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