Nobody's mentioned it yet so I'll throw this out for your information.
With any of the organic glues, Elmor's, Titebond, Titebond II, or weldBonds, and all the yellow carpenteres glues. If you'll learn the double glue joint method, our dried glue joints are stronger then either the paper or balsa/basswood...they join.
The method is very easy to learn. Set up to attach your fins as usual. apply a fairly thick bead of whichever "glue" to the root edge of one fin. marked "1", apply this fin to one of the premarked lines on the model. remove the fin, set it aside (hanging over the glued root edge over the table edge or book will keep it from sticking), move on to fin "2" and so on. once all the fins have there first joint coating, and its been allowed to dry to the touch. apply a second bead of "glue" to the root edge and apply the fin permenantly to the body, repeating with the remaining fins. This method is one of the strongest (Glue) joints possible.
There are other completely different methods for use with the other types of adhesives, and epoxies used today in rocketry. HOT melt glue should NEVER be one of them. Our motor casing operating temps are are between 212 and 221 degrees F, most hot melt glues flow at 180 - 215 degrees. NOT a good choice

I still have models 25 and 30 years old that fly on a semi-regular basis held together by those same elmor's white or carpenter's glue joints
