El Lubbo (US Rockets)

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tnrocketman

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Well, reading other posts about this rocket got me interested in this kit. The idea of making a nose cone from body tubing really intrigued me. So I bit the bullet and placed my order. Boxed kit arrived about 7 busines days later. No big surprise there, as I knew Jerry was based on the west coast and I am in TN.

The kit consists of four inch body tube sections, light plywood fins, centering rings, a bulkhead, a ventilated bulkhead, a mylar parachute (might be sufficient but I will likley use another nylon chute from my collection), 29mm MMT, two technique brochures, and printed instructions.

I had some ideas about how the nose cone would be fabricated, and I was pretty close to the concept as explained in the report. As others have done, I would caution the execution of the technique is much more challenging than it would seem. I tend to agree that the skill rating of the kit could stand to be elevated a notch. I don't think it would deter an experienced modeler from ordering. It certainly wouldn't have affected my purchasing decision. But I digress.

I followed the kit instructions generally as I typically do, having built well over fifty rockets of various size and scale over time. Where I have varied from the instructions it was more a matter of personal style than doubt of the method.

I have to this point attached the centering rings to the MMT, Airfoiled the fins, and test fitted them as described. I did notice the fins seemed to extend a bit further back than the line drawn on the MMT-- nothing a Dremel coudln't fix. I have been using Aileen's tacky glue to attach the CRs and fins first, then using Elmer's Carpenter glue for fillets afterwards. This is very effective and tacks up quickly!

I also began making the nose cone cuts. I really wished I had practiced the technique on some scrap tubing first, but I didn't have anything close in size or thickness to the tube I was using. It is VERY important to cut as close to your marks as possible! I didn't find masking tape alone as sufficient to keep my marks on the line. I did find if I took some cardboard out of the recycle bin I could tape it down and do halfway decent, but not until the 3rd triangle cut. So I don't have a perfectly formed cone. It is likely going to bother me a lot, as I can be somewhat anal about such things. I also found that to try and keep my sides evenly bent in to tape it up, it helped a great deal to center a regular plastic nose cone inside. Hopefully those tips will help others.

In the end, I didn't feel too confident in the strength of the resulting cone after gluing. So, even though it is probably overkill, I made a VCT paper template and cut a piece of 3 oz fiberglass cloth to reinforce it. After finishing Nose cone assembly, the result is a unique 3.3 oz nose cone!

I have some pictures too attach and I will try to put those up today or tomorrow. Enough typing for today.
 
Originally posted by tnrocketman

I really wished I had practiced the technique on some scrap tubing first, but I didn't have anything close in size or thickness to the tube I was using.

In the end, I didn't feel too confident in the strength of the resulting cone after gluing.

So, even though it is probably overkill, I made a VCT paper template and cut a piece of 3 oz fiberglass cloth to reinforce it. After finishing Nose cone assembly, the result is a unique 3.3 oz nose cone!


Try it on OTHER USR kits.

The technique is strong.

VCT is endorsed.

Make me another "jig" for poor El Lubbo :)

Then design an arbitrary shape tail cone.

Jerry
 
Originally posted by Jerry Irvine
Try it on OTHER USR kits.

The technique is strong.

So true Jerry... The ACE Fugue shroud method is considerably easier to accomplish for transitions. Boat tails are next up the ladder in difficulty. Finally, at the very tip-top of the ladder is the nose cone.

I have become rather good at the technique with building a USR Stiletto & Sentra SRB 2.7. However, I started with the El Lubbo first. I understand exactly where you are coming from tnrocketman! When all else fails, take your time! I can't stress that enough. At least you get 2 chances to make a nose cone ;) (And it took me the 2nd time to get it right!)

Reinforcements inside the cone should be simple (I used strips of paper along the seams) BUT NOT ADD ANY SIGNIFICANT WEIGHT. The looks on people's faces when you announce that you are flying a 4" rocket on a E motor is totally worth it :D

Enjoy the build--it's unlike anything you've ever built I assure you!!
 
I need to get those pictures in here.

BTW, I totally agree the method seems MUCH easier for tailcones/transitions. I've cut the tailcone but have not finished attaching fins to the MMT so I have not tried to 'assemble' it yet.

Picture posts coming...
 
Nice pics :)

BTW, One item I forgot to adress earlier was the parachute. Mine came with an old(er) porous nylon type chute. While it is ~24" diameter, it acts like a smaller one because of the thin, breathable material. My El Lubbo came down quickly (but still very safely) on the grassy field with that chute. (Actually I wish it would have come down even faster because of the 10-15mph winds that day!) You using a non-porous mylar chute will probably have a slower recovery.
Don't let the rocket's large size bait you into using a larger chute! The chute included with the kit will be more than adequate enough...
 
Originally posted by KarlD
I need to break down and try one of these.

Karl, you would be prime material for building one...because you have build other USR kits that use the same shroud fabrication technique. tnrocketman & I feel that the skill level should be a 4 instead of a 3...but we say that because it was our first time using the technique. You could help really judge what the kit should be rated...

(How's that for twisting your arm to get one?!? hehe :p :D )
 
In a way that is more true than you know.

None of the USR kits that I have built yet have used this method. I do have a Stiletto that is in the build "q" and with the comments that I have heard it sounds like that I need to build it first.

Time is my only issue at the moment...
 
Time I caught up with this narrative. Centering rings are attached, the fins are airfoiled, and attached. Several overnight cured filets of Wood glue later, here is the result:
 
I have glued the assembled MMT and fins into the tailcone. While attaching the flaps to the MMT, I learned quickly just dry fitting that it was VERY helpful to sharpen the curve of the end of the flap around my finger before attaching them. I still had some gaps between the fins and flaps. I very carefully cut strips of cereal box, and glued them on the underside edge.

I am now in the process of fileting those tabs to the fins, an otherwise straightforward process.

Also, I have assembled the coupler/baffle. Another overkill thing I do to baffles is glue a couple of layers of aluminum foil to the MMT side of the baffles. Probably not necessary, just makes me feel better.

And, although it would probably work fine, I elected not to use the souped up Estes-style shock cord mount. Instead, I drilled an extra hole and used some picture wire to thread thru two holes making a loop. I had some flat tubular nylon laying around and looped that thru the wire a couple of times and tied it off firmly.

That is where I am right now. More to come :cool:
 
Are yor fins balsa or birch ply? They look a lot thinner than my 1/4" balsa ones... :rolleyes:

Your work so far looks great!
 
They are more like birch ply, but very light and a little softer wood. I have a couple of light nicks in spots where I dropped them. And they weigh about the same as balsa. I haven't decided how I will 'treat' them for hardening as I don't want the finished model that subject to dents. I have thought about CA, but that is some huge surface area. Maybe paper..
 
OK, the talicone tabs were wood glued down and cured. To try and get a more even transition between fin and tailcone, I used some spackling compound and my finger to get a smoother and more uniform filet look. I have found a few extra drops of water make the spackle easier to work with, but it could be because the huge tub I got was on clearance for $0.47 ;-) Then I put a light coat of wood glue over that to harden it.

I glued a coupler to the completed tailcone unit, then attached a length of BT to that. On the other end, I attached the coupler/baffle, baffle side down. Right now, I lean towards gluing the last section of BT to the rear of the assembled nose cone to lessen the danger of zippering.

I have also been using the spackle to try to smooth out some irregularities on the nose cone surface.I've got the feeling I have a ways to go with this, but I may have to shoot it with primer before I get a good idea how close I am.

I dry fitted the rest of the rocket together for a weight check-- right now (sans parachute) it weighs only 17.4 ounces! You would never guess that just eyeballing it. I think an F52 would really result in a nice flight for this bird based on current trend.
 
Originally posted by tnrocketman
I glued a coupler to the completed tailcone unit, then attached a length of BT to that. On the other end, I attached the coupler/baffle, baffle side down. Right now, I lean towards gluing the last section of BT to the rear of the assembled nose cone to lessen the danger of zippering.

First off, NICE WORK :D

Secondly, I would NOT do what you mentioned above for 2 reasons:
1) If your nosecone gets ruined, you'll have to acquire ANOTHER piece of tubing to replace the uppermost airfram tube too.
2) Remember that El Lubbo is designed to fly on G80s or less (total & peak) thrust. With the large diameter and that range of motors, it will NEVER be a speed demon. You would be attempting to protect the rocket from something that it is not designed to experience in the first place!

BTW, I really like the baffle in El Lubbo as it A) provides more strength to the overall integrity of the rocket & B) provides a handy shelf for the chute & shock cord to keep them well away from the ejection charge.

Keep the pics coming!
 
Originally posted by tnrocketman

I dry fitted the rest of the rocket together for a weight check-- right now (sans parachute) it weighs only 17.4 ounces! You would never guess that just eyeballing it. I think an F52 would really result in a nice flight for this bird based on current trend.

Welcome to the poster child for MRT and LMR and MPR.

Jerry
 
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