# Eggtimer Quark Destruction

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#### Dipstick

Well, all I said was to myself was, at $15 a quark, I'm gonna give this a shot... I screwed up on step two, and I think I know the answer to this, but the board is shot now with the silver pad burned off right? I attempted to attach the wrong component, and it was too a little too large, some solder trickled off into that ground as well... I think I might try do the rest just to see if I can, and then reconsider putting these together myself lol #### g.pitts ##### Well-Known Member TRF Supporter Well, all I said was to myself was, at$15 a quark, I'm gonna give this a shot...

I screwed up on step two, and I think I know the answer to this, but the board is shot now with the silver pad burned off right? I attempted to attach the wrong component, and it was too a little too large, some solder trickled off into that ground as well...

I think I might try do the rest just to see if I can, and then reconsider putting these together myself lol

View attachment 402256
I would say it’s a goner. While you MIGHT be able to cobble the cap back in, I would not trust it to be reliable in a rocket of mine. However, you’ve got the right mindset: how can I get something out of this experience? That’s a mature outlook on what I’d term a “learning opportunity“. Practice away on this board in the spirit of nailing it on the next kit build.

In the meantime, get your replacement order in!

#### timbucktoo

##### Well-Known Member
Staff member
Global Mod
I fried my first Quark. Hooked battery up backward. Cris sent me a few replacement parts, still no go. For the price you can’t go wrong. Have built several more since.

##### Well-Known Member
If you had some magnet wire and good skills, you could expose some of the trace and use the magnet wire as a jumper. If you don't know how to do that then it's not the time to learn. New board is cheap.

#### Voyager1

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
I would complete the board as carefully as possible as an exercise in soldering.

It would be possible to re-solder the 0.1uF capacitor to the remaining pad on the left and obliquely across to the broad pcb track under the “0.1uF” text. If you carefully scrape a small area of the green resist coating from the track with a scalpel to expose fresh Copper, you can re-solder the cap in the new orientation.

You will also need to re-link the track to the top through-hole for the beeper. It is possible, but will require a steady hand, good lighting and magnification.

These sort of pcb operations are not unusual for an experienced solderer, but if you’re a little challenged in that area, then just use it as practise.

However, as G said above, you wouldn’t really trust the altimeter in one of your rockets, particularly if it was used for deployment. If it’s just used for non-critical reporting of altitude, then go for it!

Cris will advise you here.

#### cerving

##### Owner, Eggtimer Rocketry
TRF Supporter
Actually, the missing pad connects directly to the adjacent processor pin, and the broken trace below it is OK if broken (it goes to GND, but so does that missing pad since there's another via to GND by the processor pin). I'd try to fix it... but as Voyager1 said, if nothing else you'll get some soldering practice out of it.

#### Dipstick

##### Well-Known Member
Well, that was a lot of fun. Starting with a new tip made things even easier.

After wrapping up and creating the solder bridge recommend by Chris I got the unit on and beeping as it should. That was a little surprising to me [emoji16]

I kept going and got a nominal drogue test with ematch. At this point my ego was nicely inflated...then I tried the main test and don't get an ignition. Altimeter goes into test mode and gets to the 5 second beep before ignition, but no light. I tried several batteries and ematch to rule that out...any ideas Chris? Others?

#### Dipstick

##### Well-Known Member
Aha, apparently I should have looked at the board before posting, see what I missed?

I'll report back once that has been rectified [emoji15]

#### Voyager1

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Aha, apparently I should have looked at the board before posting, see what I missed?

I'll report back once that has been rectified [emoji15]
There appear to be a few empty pads to the left of the beeper.

#### Dipstick

##### Well-Known Member
You got it. A little embarrassing but hey, putting them on fixed my problem lol.

Glad to say my first egg timer build was a success. I actually feel quite confident to do more now [emoji3]

There appear to be a few empty pads to the left of the beeper.

#### Greg Furtman

TRF Supporter

##### Well-Known Member
Rather than starting another thread I figured I would give this one CPR and ask my questions right here. I have a Quark on the way so it makes sense to get ready for the build. The soldering part does not really scare me as I have soldered new wires on the control boards of the smallest RC servos they make. Actually my gliders were all hard wired meaning I soldered all my servos and my battery right into the the plane.

I am however looking at getting a swivel arm magnifier. I have a nice swivel arm lamp I use for projects so I am wondering if I need to look into a lighted magnifier or just get a good swivel arm magnifier. I wear reading glasses so I can pick up some with a stronger power as well for the really tight stuff.

I am looking forward to this project and flying the DD system I have been working on.

#### djs

##### Well-Known Member
I am however looking at getting a swivel arm magnifier. I have a nice swivel arm lamp I use for projects so I am wondering if I need to look into a lighted magnifier or just get a good swivel arm magnifier.
I'm 43 and wear bifocals. I usually solder SMT stuff without a magnifier, although I tend to get fairly close to the board. That being said, I have a swivel arm lighted magnifier to check things over afterwards, or while debugging it.

#### g.pitts

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Rather than starting another thread I figured I would give this one CPR and ask my questions right here. I have a Quark on the way so it makes sense to get ready for the build. The soldering part does not really scare me as I have soldered new wires on the control boards of the smallest RC servos they make. Actually my gliders were all hard wired meaning I soldered all my servos and my battery right into the the plane.

I am however looking at getting a swivel arm magnifier. I have a nice swivel arm lamp I use for projects so I am wondering if I need to look into a lighted magnifier or just get a good swivel arm magnifier. I wear reading glasses so I can pick up some with a stronger power as well for the really tight stuff.

I am looking forward to this project and flying the DD system I have been working on.
I wear reading glasses since I have lousy near-vision (hit in my mid-40's like it does for many others). I picked up this lighted magnifier at Rockler and like it.

##### Well-Known Member
I wear reading glasses since I have lousy near-vision (hit in my mid-40's like it does for many others). I picked up this lighted magnifier at Rockler and like it.

I have found some similar to that on Amazon. It just hit me that if it has it's own light source I wont need to have two swing arms set up.

#### Dipstick

##### Well-Known Member
My mother had an old lighted magnifier that she bought for cross-stitching years ago. It was collecting dust, so I borrowed it for this project. I wear glasses and don't have perfect vision, but I found that I could do most of it without the magnifier. I would look through it first to get familiarized, but had a bit of trouble adjusting to "super vision" while moving the soldering iron...having one available is certainly useful though.

#### ksaves2

The key for SMT soldering is a very small tipped iron/pencil and good technique. Put a teeny tiny bit of solder on the tab, place component, reheat to tack component down (say a resistor), let cool, do the other side, let cool and reflow the original side if the tack looks like it needs a bit more solder. Works very time. Of course good light and magnification is a plus. I assemble inside a clear glass baking dish so if a component "jumps", good chance it stays in the dish for recovery. Kurt

#### cerving

##### Owner, Eggtimer Rocketry
TRF Supporter
can use the paste on the pads to stick it down then apply heat
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017RSGPI8

#### Motocrossman24

##### Well-Known Member
Also, sra and kester are my two fav solder brands...although my iron melts sra 63/37 solder faster then the kester of the same diameter that I have, so I prefer it over the kester.

#### ksaves2

Take heart, I’ve dorked a couple of these kits. I believe some solder got under the Wifi chip on one project and whacked it. The voltage regulator burned up. Cris sent me a higher capacity regulator and it still didn’t work. Went into the junk drawer and didn’t think a bit about it. My fault and no big deal to me. It was a Quantum and I’ve built 3 more without issue. Stuff happens.

The worst thing is I built one of the first EggFinders and I was testing it on the windowsill with a LiPo battery.
It was working impeccably and then the wire flexed and it fell 4 feet on the floor!. GPS receiver antenna cracked off the base and that was it. That went into the junk drawer too. I resurrected it a couple of years later when I was able to solder off the GPS chip and soldered three wires to an outboard GPS chip with a circularly polarized antenna that makes this 2 part GPS tracker even more accurate than the stock chip.

Don’t get me wrong, the stock GPS chip is perfectly fine with finding a rocket as I’ve flown three stock EF’s and have had no problem getting them back. The outboard chip takes a larger bay and it’s accuracy to the point of absurdity and more of an academic exercise. I was kinda happy I was able to resurrect something out of the junk box! Keep practicing!! Kurt

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#### Motocrossman24

##### Well-Known Member
If anyone wants a nice budget system, here’s one with the hot air gun and temp controlled iron solder iron.

And if you prefer digital

#### cerving

##### Owner, Eggtimer Rocketry
TRF Supporter
If anyone wants a nice budget system, here’s one with the hot air gun and temp controlled iron solder iron.

And if you prefer digital
I have one of those, I only use it for the hot air tool. The soldering station isn't that great... my Velleman 60W unit works much better, plus Hakko tips fit it so they're easy to come by.

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