E Power for a richter recker

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DerekMc

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I picked up a Flis Kits Richter Recker for my son for Christmas. I want to adapt it to fly on 3 E96 as well as D-125's. I want to keep the conversion as quick and simple as possible.

I could use friction fit or the kit motor retainers with the motor tube stop at E motor distance. Estes has the D motor spacer that comes with their Eliminator. Can these be ordered seperately?

I think I would prefer using a spacer more than friction fit due to ease of set-up. Any other suggestions? E motors are as big as I want to go!

Derek
 

Johnnie

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I used spacers for the D. My E9's hung out the back an extra inch or so. I taped them together and lit'm up...worked like a champ.

Three F12 blackjack loads is what I have my eye on in the future :D
 

lalligood

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Originally posted by Johnnierkt
I used spacers for the D. My E9's hing out the back an extra inch or so. I taped them together and lit'm up...worked like a champ.
I did the exact same thing with mine. It's so loooooong that it barely affected the rocket's stability :cool:

The only thing I wish I would've done differently when building it was use polyurethane glue instead of glue soaked tissue paper to fill in the gaps around the motor tubes. It makes for a stronger aft end, would've taken less time to do (especially waiting for the glue to dry!), & for a minimal tradeoff in additional weight.
 

Mister Rogers

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Originally posted by DerekMc
I picked up a Flis Kits Richter Recker for my son for Christmas. I want to adapt it to fly on 3 E96 as well as D-125's. I want to keep the conversion as quick and simple as possible.

I could use friction fit or the kit motor retainers with the motor tube stop at E motor distance. Estes has the D motor spacer that comes with their Eliminator. Can these be ordered seperately?

I think I would prefer using a spacer more than friction fit due to ease of set-up. Any other suggestions? E motors are as big as I want to go!

Derek
You can purchase the Estes "assortment" motor mount kit which contains two E engine hooks and two spacers to use with D motors and E engine hook(as well as several ABC hooks and mini hooks). You can also use spent D or E casings cut to the same length as the aforementioned spacer but I would peel off a layer or two of the outer wrap so that they sit in the mmt a tiny bit loose rather than snug. Good Luck:)
 

bmhiii

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I just flew my Rickter Recker for the first time (it was still nakid). I loaded it up with 3 E9-6s. WOW!! What an awesome flight. It gets lots of height, more than one would think. You will definitely enjoy this bird.

I used engine hooks I got from Flying Silverado (Thrustaero) on mine. And the aforementioned spacers made form spent Es/Ds work great. Do peel a few layers off to make them a loose fit.

Here's the RR on Es getting off the pad:

bmhiii
 

jflis

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We had 4-5 Richter Reckers at our last CMASS launch yesterday and at least two of them flew with E9 motors. I beleive they were contructed without hooks and with the engine blocks recessed deep enough to accomodate the E motors.

When I fly mine (set up for D motors *with* hooks), I simply push the E motor up to the motor block and tape it in place right around the base of the rocket (as several others here have mentioned)

She flys great and is a real crowd pleaser on E9-6 motors, I can tell you that! :)

jim
 

n3tjm

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Originally posted by jflis
We had 4-5 Richter Reckers at our last CMASS launch yesterday and at least two of them flew with E9 motors. I beleive they were contructed without hooks and with the engine blocks recessed deep enough to accomodate the E motors.
When Bill and I drag raced ours, he had the E9's sticking out the rear the additional 1". I just used D12-3's. Show off ;).
 

Rocketjunkie

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Originally posted by jflis
She flys great and is a real crowd pleaser on E9-6 motors, I can tell you that! :)

jim
Now CHAD stage a D12-0 to each E9...
 

Donaldsrockets

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I flew my Richter Recker on three E9-6's. Since I built the motor mount assembly stock, I left the motors hanging out the back. I just friction fitted each one into the mount and then wrapped a few layers of masking tape around them.

Flew just fine with no appearant stability problems since this rocket is just 4 inches shy of 8 feet in length.

I loved the sound of the baby G equivelant motor with three nozzles.:D
 

DerekMc

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I can't wait to finish and fly this really cool rocket. Thanks Fliskits!
 

wscarvie

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Hi all,

We had a Richter Recker at our launch this morning. The rocket is IMPRESSIVE sitting on the pad, and of course MORE impressive blasting off into the sky. D12-5's were just right, with ejection right at apogee.

NICE!

I'm gonna have to add one of these to my Christmas wish list...
 

r1dermon

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for the size its insanely inexpensive. not only that, its VERY impressive in flight, once it gets way up there and it looks like a stick, its so cool. E9's are awesome in this rocket.
 

Mad Rocketeer

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Has anyone tried putting two motor retainer clips on a rocket like this one: (1.) One D-length, and (2.) One E-length and set to fit over an E motor that's pushed to the stop (set at D depth)? Would the end of the longer retainer be a problem or get damaged over time by being in the blast cone of D motors?

Originally posted by lalligood
The only thing I wish I would've done differently when building it was use polyurethane glue instead of glue soaked tissue paper to fill in the gaps around the motor tubes. It makes for a stronger aft end, would've taken less time to do (especially waiting for the glue to dry!), & for a minimal tradeoff in additional weight.
Lance:

How would the polyurethane glue be used? Would you apply it in rings to all the surfaces, building it up into a solid barrier? I've never used polyurethane glue, so I'm not sure how it would be best used in a wide irregular gap filling role.
 

lalligood

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Originally posted by Mad Rocketeer
Lance:

How would the polyurethane glue be used? Would you apply it in rings to all the surfaces, building it up into a solid barrier? I've never used polyurethane glue, so I'm not sure how it would be best used in a wide irregular gap filling role.
Polyurethane glue (like Gorilla Glue) takes a little practice to use but it's worth the effort. It's a lot like PML's 2-part foam except it is only "1-part" and doesn't expand as much or as quickly.

The RR doesn't have any centering rings. The 3 24mm MMT tubes are inside a piece of BT-69 (which later all gets glued inside the BT-70 airframe). You are left with gaps between the 24mm tubes & the BT-69. With the MMT assembly together, squeeze some (but not enough to actually fill the gaps with liquid glue!) poly glue into the gaps between the MMT tubes & the BT-69. Leave in a warm, humid area for a couple of hours. When you return, expect to find the foam expanded & hardened. It will not only make an airtight seal, it'll make for a STRONG MMT ;)

If you happen to not use enough to fill the gap, you can add a second application. If you happened to use too much, you can cut and/or sand the foam to shape.

BTW, I used this technique in building the clustered MMT of my Semroc Goliath...

HTH,
 

r1dermon

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elmers ultimate glue works just as good and is less expensive. it leaked on my trucks seat, foamed up, will not come off. not even with a chisel. lol.
 

Mad Rocketeer

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Originally posted by lalligood
With the MMT assembly together, squeeze some (but not enough to actually fill the gaps with liquid glue!) poly glue into the gaps between the MMT tubes & the BT-69. Leave in a warm, humid area for a couple of hours. When you return, expect to find the foam expanded & hardened. It will not only make an airtight seal, it'll make for a STRONG MMT ;)

If you happen to not use enough to fill the gap, you can add a second application. If you happened to use too much, you can cut and/or sand the foam to shape.
So, I guess the upper and lower surfaces will be pretty irregular. That would lead me to think that the glue should be placed about 1/2 way up the length of the 24mm tubes rather than at the rear end, so there would be no need to trim whatever might otherwise stick out beyond the ends of the tubes. Seems like it would have to be placed on its side to keep the glue from running out while expanding, but wouldn't that make it settle to the side that was placed down, thus unbalancing the weight of the rocket from the centerline? I guess it could be rotated, but that's a lot of work to keep doing for a couple of hours.
 

lalligood

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Originally posted by Mad Rocketeer
So, I guess the upper and lower surfaces will be pretty irregular. That would lead me to think that the glue should be placed about 1/2 way up the length of the 24mm tubes rather than at the rear end, so there would be no need to trim whatever might otherwise stick out beyond the ends of the tubes. Seems like it would have to be placed on its side to keep the glue from running out while expanding, but wouldn't that make it settle to the side that was placed down, thus unbalancing the weight of the rocket from the centerline? I guess it could be rotated, but that's a lot of work to keep doing for a couple of hours.
Yes, there are several different brands of poly glue on the market. They all pretty much work the same.

I think you're overanalyzing using the poly glue. Simply squeeze/pour a little bit in the gap outside the motor tubes. LEAVE IT ALONE. Let the glue do its work. Keeping it away from either end of the tubes is a good idea but it not required. It expands fairly evenly all by itself to form a lightweight "honeycomb" that will create an airtight seal (which is all you're looking to do).

Like I said earlier, test it on some scrap so you understand how poly glue behaves before you use it on a project. As they say across the pond, "it's the bee's knees" :D
 

Mad Rocketeer

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Originally posted by lalligood
I think you're overanalyzing using the poly glue.
Yeah, I'm sometimes guilty of that. :p :)

Originally posted by lalligood
Simply squeeze/pour a little bit in the gap outside the motor tubes. LEAVE IT ALONE. Let the glue do its work. Keeping it away from either end of the tubes is a good idea but it not required. It expands fairly evenly all by itself to form a lightweight "honeycomb" that will create an airtight seal (which is all you're looking to do).

Like I said earlier, test it on some scrap so you understand how poly glue behaves before you use it on a project. As they say across the pond, "it's the bee's knees" :D
Yeah, I get it. :cool:
 
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