Not surprised considering the worldwide balsa shortage - we’ll probably see more less than optimal balsa for quite some time…I pretty much paper all my balsa fins, the increased strength and decrease in sanding is worth the slight weight penalty to me. I haven’t even opened my ANTAR box yet - yours’ is looking good.I'll haveta say this is the softest balsa I have ever worked with. The long 'dorsal' fin was quite bent - had to use tape to hold it done while gluing.
Rustoleum Hunter Green
http://qualmanrocketry.com/@kuririn where'd you get those nifty fin jigs
Thanks Neil, so many little companies out there doing all kinds of stuff that you'd never know about. Unless you've got first-hand knowledge of them or have been told about them. A lot of stuff doesn't come up in Google queries.
That is true, particularly so with Qualman because he's not active on the forums these days. Any time someone posts a picture with those fin jigs in it there are a flurry of inquiries about who makes them.Thanks Neil, so many little companies out there doing all kinds of stuff that you'd never know about. Unless you've got first-hand knowledge of them or have been told about them. A lot of stuff doesn't come up in Google queries.
I think Randy Boadway on the Rocketry Show said he's expecting more 3D printed fins as balsa becomes more scarce over time. Most likely true...Not surprised considering the worldwide balsa shortage - we’ll probably see more less than optimal balsa for quite some time…I pretty much paper all my balsa fins, the increased strength and decrease in sanding is worth the slight weight penalty to me. I haven’t even opened my ANTAR box yet - yours’ is looking good.
I inserted one into the Super Mars Snooper which I'm hoping wasn't a mistake. We'll see. I'm ready to paint the ridiculous NC. Wish me luck...
It's not a long body tube. The rocket has a long stuffer tube so the baffle is close to the opening. The baffle leaves about 5 inches for laundry so should be fine.Good luck! Would love to see the finished work!
What makes you worry about the baffle in the Snooper - more weight? CP/CG?
I have it about here. I estimate there’s a half inch between the tube and baffle which is 2.5” long. This give 4.5” space for laundry. I built a new baffle and weighs 8g.I think I'll try a 3d printed baffle in my Snooper. The baffle is 1.5 inches long and weighs ~ 13 grams. According to my Yu-Gi-Oh ruler, this is where it would go to give me 5 inches of laundry room - pretty close to the engine tube ~ an inch?
Is this about where you put your baffle? I wonder what the Qualman baffle weighs? I do not have any extra to weigh. I may have to print some lighter baffles (PETG).
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Thank you for weighing a new baffle!
Do ya think it would it hurt to do this? I'd have ~ 6" of laundry room! Just seems like over pressurizing that .5 to 1 inch main tube unnecessarily - no?
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I'll probably use the engine tube to push this baffle in w some epoxy.
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How have the baffles held up before?
Great thing about 3D printing -- cut the jig off and make another... probably $.50 or so in filament...
I do this too. As a novice BAR, it is always nice validation to see an experienced rocketeer using the same method as something I've come up with on my own.Might be a good idea to coat the jig in Vaseline before you use it next time. I do that with my rail button screw mounts. I want them epoxied to the inside of the tube, and pulled tight against the tube. So I use the screw to pull it tight. But if I epoxy over the screw, then the screw will never come out. So I coat the screw in Vaseline before screwing it in. After full cure, I good twist breaks it loose and it screws right out.
Thanks. The risk, of course, is getting the Vaseline on something that you want to stick!I do this too. As a novice BAR, it is always nice validation to see an experienced rocketeer using the same method as something I've come up with on my own.
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