Dr. Zooch Discoverer Thor

[luke strawalker]

Finally got around to starting my Discoverer Thor build today. GREAT kit! The instructions are a hoot. No sense boring anyone with another build thread, since this kit is very straightforward, but I HAVE got a couple ideas to share, and invite comments, questions, or ideas...

First the instructions recommend electrical tape be wrapped around the motor hook. I kinda scratched my head over that one... The electrical tape I've been using all these years (the black stretchy plastic tape) has sort of a gummy sticky adhesive to it that seems to only soften with heat. I've worked on electrical harnesses on farm tractors and stuff and it seems like the electrical tape adhesive gets VERY gummy and soft and 'turns loose' after a while, especially when exposed to heat, and the plastic ribbon itself that the adhesive is applied to tends to get very hard, stiff, and brittle. I just redid a trailer wiring harness and the adhesive had disappeared and was literally nonexistant, and the plastic ribbon had hardened the point it came off as a spiral that would break after a turn or two, just snap off. Granted the sun, rain, and all would work on it more on a trailer hitch than inside a rocket, but the heat wouldn't do it any favors, as I've seen similar effects under the tractor hood on wiring harnesses. I didn't want to risk it, especially on the motor tube which will 'heat soak' from the motor casing and since it's INSIDE the rocket where it would be nigh impossible to repair if it DID turn loose... At least that's been MY experience with electical tape, that it WILL turn loose after awhile... Any comments/experiences??

SO, I elected to use some other kind of tape. I've had pretty good luck with the blue painter's tape, so I put about 3-4 wraps of that around the motor hook. The blue tape is supposed to have a better adhesive than the standard yellow masking tape. I've had the yellow tape adhesive TOTALLY dry out to dust and the paper tape ribbon turn loose, but I've seen it get pretty dry and brittle too and the paper ribbon break easily after drying out. Any thoughts here?? Did I goof?? Best idea I've seen would be the reinforced packing tape, the kind with strings in it... but I didn't have any. Any experiences here with these kinds of tapes?? Recommendations??

One other quick tip before I sign off for the night... I went ahead and did the rocket engine bell. Now I've done a few paper shrouds before, on my SS-17 and Minuteman III and Ares I I'm working on, and now that I have RockSim and it's shroud pattern print feature, considering how great the SRB skirt turned out on my Ares I, and how well it fit, and how well it came out after hardening it with CA, I'm REALLY beginning to like how light a shroud part turns out. I've never done a 'compound paper shroud' like the Zoochman's engine nozzles before, so this was a first. I cut them out carefully, gently curled them around a pencil to 'preroll' them, and put a bit of glue on the tab and used a hemostat to hold the tab straight and tight while the glue dried. After they set up good, I took the hemostats off and gently shaped them to get them perfectly round. Then came the moment of truth, lining the upper half more conical half up with the lower more tubular half to make the 'curved' engine bell. The careful cutting and gluing paid off, as there was VERY little overlap and only the tiniest of gaps, but gluing paper together in a 'butt weld' seam is a pain in the butt to say the least... SO I came up with a quick fix that REALLY made the job easy and the results look pretty darn good so far...

I cut the edge off the bottom of the wrap sheet about 3/16 of an inch wide, a strip about 4 inches long (just to have plenty) and then cut roughly 3/16 squares off the ends of the strip for 'joiner tabs'. I then put a dab of glue on 4 of these with my finger and installed them on the upper lip of the lower engine bell half, with about half the tab sticking up above the edge of the bell, and then after the glue set on those, I gently bent them over a little bit to match the slope of the upper engine bell half and put a bit of fresh glue on them and a tiny swipe of glue around the top and bottom bell half edges where they would join, and put the two halves together. The tabs hold the edges butt edge to butt edge yet give you something more substantial to glue to, and should really strengthen the joint without a lot of weight. I've got it all laid up on the bench to dry for the night. More info/pics probably Sunday

I also hardened the nosecone and transition with CA, since I don't like to see the balsa stuff get dinged up so easily. I did that on the balsa frustum for my Ares I and it turned out really well I thought, turns balsa into 'steel' without the weight I was gonna CA harden the fins before I paper wrapped them but forgot to before I started papering them, but I don't know if it would be worth the trouble, especially on papered fins anyway...

For anybody wanting to 'get their feet wet' with something other than Estes RTF/rediculously easy kits, the Discoverer Thor is the kit for you. It's easy enough but definitely has the flavor of a 'builder's kit' and encourages you to learn new skills or perfect old ones, and the rocket looks really cool

Good luck! OL JR

 

[MarkII]

For engine hook straps, I often use cardstock strips. I give the hook 3 or 4 wraps, glued on with whatever glue I'm using (white glue most of the time - it works great for paper to paper adhesion). When the glue has cured, I harden the strap and make it more heat resistant by soaking it with thin CA. If you do this, be careful to get the CA only on the paper strap (just drip on a couple of drops at a time while holding the mount horizontal), and avoid having any CA run down and under the free (bendable) part of the hook, to keep it from gluing the free part to the motor tube.

Another technique is to use a small ring of body tubing cut either from a piece of BT-40 (for 18 mm mounts) or BT-52 (for 24 mm mounts). Slip the ring over the mount and clip before you put on the lower centering ring. Put a bead of white glue around the tube where you want the hook retaining ring to be and quickly and smoothly slide the ring up into place. When I use this technique, I still harden the ring with thin CA afterwards. You can get BT-40 and BT-52 from Semroc.

If the BT-40 or BT-52 ring seems to be too loose, wrap the area with a strip of of cardstock or printer paper first. Before gluing on the ring, test fit the combination to make sure that the mount will still fit into the rocket's body tube, especially if you are using a BT-40 ring.

Mark

 

[foose4string]

Good call not using electrical tape. I use regular blue painter's tape(not the delicate surface) all the time for wrapping over the hooks. Usually 2-3 wraps works fine. If I'm feeling real ambitious or the tape acts like it wants to peel up, I put a drop of CA on the edge of the tape.

 

[luke strawalker]

Here's the first pic of the engine bell... I thought it really turned out nice. I had to add a bit more thread to it to get the hatbands to go nearly all the way to the bottom, though. It just didn't 'look right' with them ending halfway down the nozzle.

If you look inside the nozzle you can see the little squares I used as 'joiners' inside there to align the two halves and make a stonger joint than just 'butt gluing' the edges of the two cones together. Sure makes it easier to make the two piece nozzle!

More pics later if the phone will cooperate. :kill:

 

[Balltip]

For retaining the motor clip I use two wraps of cotton cloth and then work in some white glue into the cloth. Easy and sturdy at the same time. Just tear a strip from any old shirt or other garment and you are ready to go. Make the ends meet on the opposite side of the hook.

Just my two cents.

 

[sandman]

I use the nylon package tape. You know the stuff you cannot break unless you cut it with a knife.

 

[luke strawalker]

More pics... the phone FINALLY cooperated, and then yahoo mail gave me a fit by dumping half my pics in the spam folder for some reason...

Here's the rest of the nozzle pics...

Later ! OL JR

 

[Dr.Zooch]

First off- if any of you wanna buy one of these, ignore my web site- I only have 6 of these originals left and so I'm only selling them to TRF'ers... in other words- you folks on this forum. See the vendor's area for details.

Next- the "Tape" issue... I selected electrician's tape for the kits because of personal experience. When I say personal “experience” I’m talking about results from models I built using that method 30 years ago and recently ripped apart. I did that with 3 rockets, each of which had been launched more than 8 times and were built between 1975 and 1977. All of these were stored indoors under common household conditions. I discovered that the electrician’s tape was, amazingly, still bonded right where it had been originally placed and still retained what it had been bonded to. Now- the formula used for adhesive on said tape may have changed in 30 years- who knows- but I found no slippage or melting or brittleness. On the other hand, items I have put together with tan masking tape just a half dozen years ago were not holding. That tape got brittle and almost turned to powder when pressure was applied. The blue painter’s tape did a bit better with some lasting nearly a decade. Now- if you intend to store your rockets in a barn or under the hood of a truck or use the engine mounts in towing farm equipment… you may want to find some other tape other than electrician’s tape. Overall the entire point is probably about as moot as it can get. The average model rocket kit purchased by the AVERAGE customer only lasts in its original form for about 8 to 12 flights and less than 5 years. Although this figure may be a great deal greater for some TRF’ers, you too are not immune from trees and power lines. Thus, you could easily end up standing under a very high tree or high voltage power lines looking at the remains of your long dangling rocket and asking yourself “I wonder if the tape on that engine mount is still bonded?”

BTW luke strawalker- I really like the tabs on the engine bells’ idea. Terrific!

 

[luke strawalker]

First off- if any of you wanna buy one of these, ignore my web site- I only have 6 of these originals left and so I'm only selling them to TRF'ers... in other words- you folks on this forum. See the vendor's area for details.

Next- the "Tape" issue... I selected electrician's tape for the kits because of personal experience. When I say personal “experience” I’m talking about results from models I built using that method 30 years ago and recently ripped apart. I did that with 3 rockets, each of which had been launched more than 8 times and were built between 1975 and 1977. All of these were stored indoors under common household conditions. I discovered that the electrician’s tape was, amazingly, still bonded right where it had been originally placed and still retained what it had been bonded to. Now- the formula used for adhesive on said tape may have changed in 30 years- who knows- but I found no slippage or melting or brittleness. On the other hand, items I have put together with tan masking tape just a half dozen years ago were not holding. That tape got brittle and almost turned to powder when pressure was applied. The blue painter’s tape did a bit better with some lasting nearly a decade. Now- if you intend to store your rockets in a barn or under the hood of a truck or use the engine mounts in towing farm equipment… you may want to find some other tape other than electrician’s tape. Overall the entire point is probably about as moot as it can get. The average model rocket kit purchased by the AVERAGE customer only lasts in its original form for about 8 to 12 flights and less than 5 years. Although this figure may be a great deal greater for some TRF’ers, you too are not immune from trees and power lines. Thus, you could easily end up standing under a very high tree or high voltage power lines looking at the remains of your long dangling rocket and asking yourself “I wonder if the tape on that engine mount is still bonded?”

BTW luke strawalker- I really like the tabs on the engine bells’ idea. Terrific!

That's certainly good news! Shoulda known the doc had done his homework!!! I haven't dissected any old models to inspect the hook/engine mounts. Just going by what experience I've had otherwise. I thought maybe the conditions inside the BT would be a little 'nicer' to the tape, but the heat kinda concerned me. It just seems that the black electrical tape I've been getting the last few years has been crappier than the old stuff we used to use. Guess that's true of a lot of things Made in China or something... I don't know how much heat soaks thru the engine casing and into the motor mount during/after firing. Anybody have any numbers for various engines?? Seems like that could be a good project for an electronics wiz, using a thermocouple sensor or something and a data logger. (Note this wouldn't be me!) Has any R&D projects ever been done on this?? I know the conditions under a tractor hood or vehicle would be worse-- underhood tems of 160 degrees + for long periods of time, excess dust, sometimes liquid mist or steam or other assorted solvents/chemicals/vapors all doing funny things to the tape and adhesive. Being inside the tube protects from the weather effects seen on trailer hitches too Anybody dissected any motor mounts recovered from rocket remains fallen out of power lines or rocket eating trees?? Might be interesting...

I concur with the effects of plain yellow masking tape. It seems to be the worst of all possible solutions. I've seen the stuff turn almost completely to dust, the adhesive, paper, everything. Haven't had enough long term experience with the blue painter's tape yet. Anybody else??

Thanks for the heads up doc... I'll just use the electrical tape from now on. I'll probably try to buy a roll of some better (more expensive) electrical tape for the motor mounts, and save the Homier's twelve-rolls-for-a-dollar stuff for the unimportant stuff... like trailer wiring! LOL

Yall have a good one! OL JR

 

[MKP]

You just need the MSHA grade stuff, absolute best stuff I've found, use it for critical components and the junk stuff for junk projects. Probably harder to find in your part of the world though.

 

[MarkII]

That's certainly good news! Shoulda known the doc had done his homework!!! I haven't dissected any old models to inspect the hook/engine mounts. Just going by what experience I've had otherwise. I thought maybe the conditions inside the BT would be a little 'nicer' to the tape, but the heat kinda concerned me. It just seems that the black electrical tape I've been getting the last few years has been crappier than the old stuff we used to use. Guess that's true of a lot of things Made in China or something... I don't know how much heat soaks thru the engine casing and into the motor mount during/after firing. Anybody have any numbers for various engines?? Seems like that could be a good project for an electronics wiz, using a thermocouple sensor or something and a data logger. (Note this wouldn't be me!) Has any R&D projects ever been done on this?? I know the conditions under a tractor hood or vehicle would be worse-- underhood tems of 160 degrees + for long periods of time, excess dust, sometimes liquid mist or steam or other assorted solvents/chemicals/vapors all doing funny things to the tape and adhesive. Being inside the tube protects from the weather effects seen on trailer hitches too Anybody dissected any motor mounts recovered from rocket remains fallen out of power lines or rocket eating trees?? Might be interesting...

I concur with the effects of plain yellow masking tape. It seems to be the worst of all possible solutions. I've seen the stuff turn almost completely to dust, the adhesive, paper, everything. Haven't had enough long term experience with the blue painter's tape yet. Anybody else??

Thanks for the heads up doc... I'll just use the electrical tape from now on. I'll probably try to buy a roll of some better (more expensive) electrical tape for the motor mounts, and save the Homier's twelve-rolls-for-a-dollar stuff for the unimportant stuff... like trailer wiring! LOL

Yall have a good one! OL JR

In light of what Dr. Z. said above about his experiences with the stuff, I think that I am going to give electrical tape a try on my next few builds, too.

Someone will surely correct me if I am wrong here, but I think that measurements of the outside surface of the motor casing during and after the burn were taken as part of NAR's certification testing at one time. If you look at some of the older motor certification reports, there is a line in the report for "Max Casing External Temp. (°c):" which is usually reported as "under 200." Here is an example: https://www.aerotech-rocketry.com/c...AR/reloadable/rms-29_40-120/f40w_nar_cert.pdf

More recent cert. documents no longer show this line, but I don't know if that means that NAR S&T no longer takes those measurements, or simply that they just dropped them from the report.

Mark

 

[Dr.Zooch]

I should always add- "Your results may... err... be different."

Remember that the temp.s shown will be peak values- sustained temp.s are more critical. It would be fun to gather some data in this area as even yellow wood glue and parts made of paper soaked in Cy glue can melt and deform given the right sustained temp.s.

No idea as to what tape I used 3 decades ago. I was working in electronics at the time and it was likely whatever I swiped from the shop.

Thus I'd say- use whatever you want, or better yet, use something that will wear our quickly and cause a horrific crash... so you'll have to buy another Thor kit

 

[tbzep]

The average model rocket kit purchased by the AVERAGE customer only lasts in its original form for about 8 to 12 flights and less than 5 years.

And 90% of statistics can be made to say anything....50% of the time.


BTW, does the guy in that commercial make you want to buy an Isuzu?

 

[Dr.Zooch]

Actually I got that data from an exit poll

 

[tbzep]

Actually I got that data from an exit poll

I believe it. Especially with people's tendencies to stuff the biggest motor they can in for every flight, no matter what the wind conditions or field size is. I'm actually surprised the longevity numbers aren't a bit lower.

However, that Direct TV commercial was burned into my brain and the stats triggered the autonomic response to post to the thread.

 

[luke strawalker]

In light of what Dr. Z. said above about his experiences with the stuff, I think that I am going to give electrical tape a try on my next few builds, too.

Someone will surely correct me if I am wrong here, but I think that measurements of the outside surface of the motor casing during and after the burn were taken as part of NAR's certification testing at one time. If you look at some of the older motor certification reports, there is a line in the report for "Max Casing External Temp. (°c):" which is usually reported as "under 200." Here is an example: https://www.aerotech-rocketry.com/c...AR/reloadable/rms-29_40-120/f40w_nar_cert.pdf

More recent cert. documents no longer show this line, but I don't know if that means that NAR S&T no longer takes those measurements, or simply that they just dropped them from the report.

Mark

Interesting... I'm glad there is some data out there, shame that we don't have current numbers to compare to the heritage motor data. ("Heritage" stuff-- kind of a goofy term but definitely seems 'in' among the space and engineering type sites) It would DEFINITELY make a good R&D project for someone with the electronics knowledge to set up a thermistor as the input for a data logger and then be able to download and integrate the data. Didn't they used to sell a model rocket electronics kit that could record data from several different sensors that could be plugged into the system?? Seems I remember reading somewhere about those awhile back. IIRC it even had a thermistor sensor for taking air temperatures as the rocket ascended. Wonder if anyone ever installed the sensor inside the motor mount?? Presuming that the sensor had an adequate sensitivity scale, resolution, accuracy, and response time that is...

Maybe test several different diameters of rocket powered by several different types of motors, both APCP and BP, and different materials used for the mounts, like standard BT, fiberglass, etc. and different ring materials/ thicknesses. Integrate all the data into charts and graphs...

I'd tend to think the temps would 'spike' sometime after burnout, maybe close to ejection, because of the 'heat soak' taking time to heat the casing up and then transferring that heat thru the motor mount tube. That of course is an empirical intuitive presumption that I don't have any data to support. Depending on the results, further study could be given to materials/methods to insulate the mount from that heat and keep it in the casing, if necessary or possible within reasonable performance constraints, or perhaps even venting systems to allow cooler air from the slipstream around the model into the mount area and vent it thru holes in the bottom mount ring. Kinda like the scoops on the back of the Saturn Ib's... Kill two birds with one stone- cool the motor mount and help relieve base drag at the same time...

Just thinking out loud again... OL JR

 

[luke strawalker]

Got another question for Dr. Zooch or anyone who's built the kit...

Is the nozzle just for display or can you install it for flight, and how do you install it?? (I didn't see anything in the instructions either way) I trimmed mine a bit so it fits over the motor mount tube and engine hook, so there isn't much of the bell extending past the motor nozzle. I've primed it along with the rest of the rocket but I'm figuring I'll need high-temp paint for the inside of the nozzle to use it in flight. I'm guessing a wrap of tape on the inside of the nozzle around the motor is the best way to secure it in place for flight (if it can go along for the ride-- definitely adds to the coolness factor!)

Any thoughts comments or experience?? Thanks! OL JR

 

[Dr.Zooch]

Glue it to the aft centering ring- you need not remove it for flight.

 

[luke strawalker]

Glue it to the aft centering ring- you need not remove it for flight.

Thanks Doc! Didn't want to do anything stupid with my first Zooch kit... Finished CA hardening, filling, sanding, priming, sanding, and painting the cone and transition, and they're drying now. Slick as glass! I CA hardened the papered fins and primered, sanded, filled the spirals with autobody ding putty (the red stuff) and then resanded, but a couple minor high spots on the tube got the fuzzies so I reprimered and have to resand Yeah I'm probably going overboard with the finish but I'm trying to 'hone my skills'. Clearcoated the wrap/upper stage twice and it's drying now. Hopefully I can finish sand the lower BT this evening after the bus route and shoot her with paint before hitting the sack tonite.

Do you recommend hi-temp paint inside the nozzle?? I was a bit worried about Krushnik effects or hi-temp backflow flame impingement, so that's why I originally asked if the nozzle was supposed to be for flight. Also, do you notch the upper end where the motor hook can move freely??

Thanks for a GREAT kit Doc! This thing has been really FUN to build! OL JR

 

[luke strawalker]

Here's some pics if anyone's interested... sorry about the mess, but I'm doing a couple different things at once on the table and Keira plays on the 'end table' behind me...

 

[Dr.Zooch]

WOW! That's one shine beyond expected! GREAT finishing work! Can't wait to see the final product.

 

[luke strawalker]

WOW! That's one shine beyond expected! GREAT finishing work! Can't wait to see the final product.

Dankescheine Herr Doktor...

I'll start final sanding with the 800 grit right after I eat my Bratwurst and cabbage supper (I'm not kidding )

Post the pics ASAP...

Later! OL JR

 

[foose4string]

Just to beat on a dead horse, not all electrical tapes are created equal. I used to sell electrical supplies for a living, and just within 3M's line, there must have been a dozen different grades of electrical tape. Some with better adhesion, better heat resistance, insulating properties, shrinkage, etc. Most of their professional tapes are very good, even on the low end of things. Buy a roll of no name stuff at the dollar store, and I'm sure you'll get very different results.

 

[Fishhead]

If you look inside the nozzle you can see the little squares I used as 'joiners' inside there to align the two halves and make a stonger joint than just 'butt gluing' the edges of the two cones together. Sure makes it easier to make the two piece nozzle!

Great idea! That's one part of the build I haven't tackled. Hope you don't mind if I "borrow" it. (Actually, this would be a great addition to the instructions, Wes.)

 

[dwmzmm]

Nice work on that model, Jeff! Do you think you'll be able to fly it within a couple of months? Some of our club members want me to set up a regular
launch schedule at your place (something like once every two months). I'm
looking at having the next one in July (50th anniversary of the hobby, plus the
launch month for the Golden Scouts).

 

[luke strawalker]

Here's the finished product, well, 99% of it anyway, as the nozzle got a coat of black engine hi-temp paint inside the nozzle bell and Krylon silver chrome outside, and is drying.

Here are some posed shots I did this evening a couple hours before sundown... Enjoy!

Edit: Added the last pic here, just used paint to get rid of my hand ruining the shot... LAUNCH PAD VIEW!!!!

 

[luke strawalker]

Here's how she spec'd out...

Main BT-60 w/shock cord & chute, w/out C6-5 engine= 30 grams
Transition section= 22 grams
Upper stage tube w/ wrap= 4 grams
Nosecone= 18 grams
Nozzle= 2 grams

All up weight flight ready w/out wadding w/C6-5 motor installed= 100 grams

CG= 1/2 inch from the front end of the main BT-60, approximately 5 3/4 inches from the rocket base.

CP= ??? Anybody got a rocksim file for this rocket?? I'd like to play with it

Next stop-- an orbital mission for the ZIA (Zooch Intelligence Agency) to get some pics from Dorrillian territory! :lol:

OL JR

 

[luke strawalker]

Nice work on that model, Jeff! Do you think you'll be able to fly it within a couple of months? Some of our club members want me to set up a regular
launch schedule at your place (something like once every two months). I'm
looking at having the next one in July (50th anniversary of the hobby, plus the
launch month for the Golden Scouts).

Sure! Sounds cool Dave! Yall can fly whenever ya want to! Just lemme know so we can keep the cows on the other side of the fence!

Actually she'd probably be ready to go up this weekend but I'd probably do better to let the paint cure. Besides I've got some farm related and family related work to do, so I'll probably wait til next weekend at least to put her up. I wish I coulda seen you guys out at Moon, Mars, and Beyond last weekend at JSC. That woulda been SO cool. Unfortunately I spent all Saturday from 4 am to midnight chaperoning a school band trip to Fiesta Texas with my sister's 7th/8th grade band members (she's their teacher at Van Vleck) Kinda nice trip, BEAUTIFUL weather, but pretty tiring... LLLOOOONNNNNGGGG DAY!! Sunday I was pooped and had a few things to do here anyway, so...

Anybody flying this weekend?? Kids on the bus are driving me nuts and I need to get outta dodge, at least for a little while, if I can... ya know??

Take it easy! OL JR
PS. If you saw Scott Stephenson I still have his Streak-- it's sitting beside my monitor

 

[dwmzmm]

Sure! Sounds cool Dave! Yall can fly whenever ya want to! Just lemme know so we can keep the cows on the other side of the fence!

Actually she'd probably be ready to go up this weekend but I'd probably do better to let the paint cure. Besides I've got some farm related and family related work to do, so I'll probably wait til next weekend at least to put her up. I wish I coulda seen you guys out at Moon, Mars, and Beyond last weekend at JSC. That woulda been SO cool. Unfortunately I spent all Saturday from 4 am to midnight chaperoning a school band trip to Fiesta Texas with my sister's 7th/8th grade band members (she's their teacher at Van Vleck) Kinda nice trip, BEAUTIFUL weather, but pretty tiring... LLLOOOONNNNNGGGG DAY!! Sunday I was pooped and had a few things to do here anyway, so...

Anybody flying this weekend?? Kids on the bus are driving me nuts and I need to get outta dodge, at least for a little while, if I can... ya know??

Take it easy! OL JR
PS. If you saw Scott Stephenson I still have his Streak-- it's sitting beside my monitor

The Moon, Mars & Beyond Regional was a lot of fun, although very windy along with some thermals. I only went on Sunday; I think Scott attended on
Saturday (I still have the "other half" of the Super Shot set). The competition flights was very intense and often spectacular. I don't have the
results; Warren should be putting those out this weekend. I did get to launch
my D Dual Eggloft Duration model in true fashion, with my scratch built launch
vehicle aptly named "Gemini Titan" (two engine cluster launching two fresh
eggs!). Used the same large parachute I used on my 1/2A Cluster Duration
model last month. The twin C6-3's gave the Dual Egglofter a pretty good
boost (nearly as good as the D12 boosted models there) but the three second
delay may have been too short. The large chute opened almost immediately
and this thing literally hung up there for something like 2 1/2 minutes while
drifting well downrange. A long walk to recover it.

Likewise, I entered my Gauchito for the Future Scale/Science Fiction (as I did
last year) and got an excellent flight on the four 1/2A3-4T's. But the wind &
thermal caused the Apollo like capsule to float away out of sight, and I found
the main section (the model recovered in two separate pieces, for additional
"mission" points in the competition, along with using a four engine cluster for
power). Took me nearly an hour to find the main section; I gave up looking for the capsule when the heat and my legs were really tiring.

We'll be getting a regularly scheduled launch dates for the Needville location,
hopefully by this weekend.

A few pics of the MM&B below; I didn't try to take any liftoff pics of my models as I needed to keep a sharp eye on them. I think Warren got some
good launch pics, but hasn't posted them yet.

 

[luke strawalker]

Completely done... got the nozzle painted up and glued on. Got a few more pics that the camera phone finally sent thru...

Looking forward to my first spy mission!!! Enjoy the pics! OL JR



My masking job could've been a bit better to keep the silver out of the nozzle. I rolled up a piece of paper into a cone and opened it up inside the nozzle and then ran a little masking tape up against the edge of the nozzle to try to keep the paint out, but it couldn't be attached to the nozzle itself without messing up the silver finish, and that's the most important one to get looking good, since it's on the outside. The black engine paint was still tacky while I was installing the masking cone anyway, so that didn't help matters either... Anyhow, other than that and a couple tiny blemishes, I'm pretty happy with it overall.

Hey Doc, where is the CP on this thing supposed to be?? The CG in flight config is about 1/2 inch behind the front edge of the main BT. Thanks! OL JR