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Does anyone else struggle with using rattle can clear coats?

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jahall4

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Seems I have always struggled to find rattle can clear coats finishes that a) sprayed on well, b) did not change the base color (whites of course always the worst), and c) where relatively durable.

What do you use or don’t use and why?

For instance I have found that the Rust-oleum Stops Rust Crystal Clear Enamel product excelled at NOT affecting the base color, but neither sprayed on well nor was durable. Conversely Dupli-color Acrylic Enamel ClearCoat sprayed on okay and so far is quite durable, but there is a noticeable color change on white, not really a yellowing but a graying.

...and before someone hijacks this thread and says why are you using rattle cans, just don’t. Everyone knows that rattle cans are inferior to professional paints and equipment, you don't need to remind us. :p
 

neil_w

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The recommendation I've received was always for Krylon UV resistant clear (gloss or matte). I haven't gotten a chance to try them yet; up until now I've always used Future and it's easy and effective.
 

Gary Byrum

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I only use that stuff for printed skins and printed photographs anymore. Clear coats usually wrinkle my paint jobs. So, I'll use high gloss colors. And for the ever so rarely used satin colors, I'll give it a Future Bath.
 

jahall4

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The recommendation I've received was always for Krylon UV resistant clear (gloss or matte). I haven't gotten a chance to try them yet; up until now I've always used Future and it's easy and effective.
I have seen folks use "future" on plastic modes. Are you referring to the same stuff?
 

neil_w

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Yes, although nowadays it's called Pledge Floor Care. Great stuff.
 

Trident

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The recommendation I've received was always for Krylon UV resistant clear (gloss or matte). I haven't gotten a chance to try them yet; up until now I've always used Future and it's easy and effective.
I've used them for several years now. Great application, no yellowing. On the other hand, Testors Glosscote and Dullcote are horrid. Ruined my Orbital a Transport in 4 years. Brownish crud all over the model.

The advantage of Krylon is you can have a final flat finish. Decals on flat paint? Krylon Gloss it, apply decals, then return to flat with Krylon Matte clear.
 

jahall4

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I've used them for several years now. Great application, no yellowing. On the other hand, Testors Glosscote and Dullcote are horrid. Ruined my Orbital a Transport in 4 years. Brownish crud all over the model.

The advantage of Krylon is you can have a final flat finish. Decals on flat paint? Krylon Gloss it, apply decals, then return to flat with Krylon Matte clear.
What do you clean it with? How well does it resists mild solvents like alcohol and some adhesive cleaners?
 

neil_w

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... and it comes in a rattle can? .... can be cleaned with alcohol?
Here's the definitive reference. The original page seems to be lost but thanks to the Internet Wayback Machine it is preserved:

https://web.archive.org/web/20161027132919/https://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

There are also many threads about it on these forums if you search.

The short answer: it's liquid floor polish. Some spray it, but most (I think, including myself) brush it on with a foam brush. I've personally never tried to remove it.
 

AfterBurners

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I like Duplicolor. It works for me so I continue to use it. Switching to another rattle paint will only cause more harm than good. I'm comfortable wit its usuage and happy with the results.
 

modeltrains

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My trouble with rattle can clear coats is bad behavior with color paint, all the way to simply beading up on it. Such as I forget whose clear over Bachmann factory paint on this garden scale locomotive tender. This is something like 3x too much paint in an attempt to see if it would flow out the beads. Nope, just got moon crater size orange peel.

(and amazingly there were the amazingly uninformed RR forum members who said why didn't I test it first on paint on the inside? Umm, let's see, you run a model train factory and will produce 12,000 of a model - the cost for paint for both the inside and outside of 12,000 models is ...? The production cost for handling the models to paint both inside and outside is ...?)

Lacquers yellow over time, it is a known phenomena, be it Testors model paint or Minwax clear gloss brushing lacquer still in the can which ended up sitting forgotten a few years before being found and used.
Oil base enamel white paints will often yellow after a decade or so. Same for bare white plastic all the way from Monogram 1/72 scale Space Shuttle model kit still unbuilt in box to Southwestern Bell telephones to not overly expensive tower fans.

My almost decade bottle of Future is either itself yellowing or the Future acrylic is, the camera won't pick it up to show you here.
Ammonia is a brush-cleaning solvent for it.

Note: when putting waterslide decals over it the Future will whiten a bit when wet but return to clear. Same often happens when handling it with wet hands.
 

sharkbait

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Spray-max 2K glamour gloss

I've put it over most all brands of both enamel and lacquer with zero compatibility issues
Best clear in a can hands down
 

Mugs914

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For gloss finishes I gave up on cans after trying Future floor polish the first time. I learned about it from the plastic model crowd but never tried it until someone here on TRF recommended it. Easiest thing ever and gives great results. Like Neil said, I just flow it on with a foam brush. The only downside so far is that it takes a spell to dry.

For flat finishes I use Tamiya matte in the rattle can. Goes on easily, flows out perfectly and is actually flat when dry (It seems like a lot of the flat clears actually wind up being more of a satin or semi-gloss). Very forgiving stuff and gives great results!
 

jahall4

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...The short answer: it's liquid floor polish. Some spray it, but most (I think, including myself) brush it on with a foam brush. I've personally never tried to remove it.
Yep, good reference, confirmed what I thought... it is not a permanent clear coat (ie since it can be removed with say Windex), but it does sound like a cheap effective polish. thx!
 

jahall4

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I like Duplicolor. It works for me so I continue to use it. Switching to another rattle paint will only cause more harm than good. I'm comfortable wit its usuage and happy with the results.
I do too, except it does gray (yellow) the whites which triggered this post.
 

jahall4

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Spray-max 2K glamour gloss

I've put it over most all brands of both enamel and lacquer with zero compatibility issues
Best clear in a can hands down
Thanks John, 2 part product in a can, interesting, and based on the technical manual is exactly what is needed for a rocket. How does it do over a white base coat, any "yellowing"?
 

Flyfalcons

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I have had the best results with Krylon non-yellowing clear. Seems to go on smoother than Rustoleum and Duplicolor.
 

Bat-mite

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I hate painting so much that I have decided to buy all of my future kits with colored FG and fly naked.
 

sharkbait

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I have had no ill effects with the 2K on any brand, type, or color of paint.
It is two part in a rattle can, and will provide the best protection you'll get with a clear coat.
Since it is a two part, you have to use it or lose it
 

AfterBurners

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I've always used Duplicolor primers, paints and clear coats. Always! Yes they are more expensive, but what confuses me is how many people post threads like this and complain about their results. Bottom line is you get what you pay for. You use cheap inferior paint, you can count on the same results. The extra money you spend on quality paint will definitely outweigh the amount of time you have to spend to sand down that terrible paint job and repaint it. My time is worth something and spending a few bucks more on a can of paint is definitely worth it!! Not only that look at the amount of time you spend building your rocket and all those cool extra thick epoxy fillets and extra heavy duty "tank" like hardware, 4000lb swivels, 3000lb quick links, 5600lb Kevlar...why not spend a few bucks more on a can paint because God knows how much you wasted and pi$$ed away on unnecessary hardware to send up that brick of yours.
 

jahall4

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I've always used Duplicolor primers, paints and clear coats. Always! Yes they are more expensive, but what confuses me is how many people post threads like this and complain about their results. Bottom line is you get what you pay for.
Yep, and I'm willing to pay more than what Duplicolor costs, because while it's pretty good, it "grays" or "yellows" whites. This "Spray-max 2K glamour gloss" looks promising and I have already ordered a couple of cans at a whopping $38 just to try it. Even if it still yellows some it looks to be incredibly durable.
 

AfterBurners

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Yep, and I'm willing to pay more than what Duplicolor costs, because while it's pretty good, it "grays" or "yellows" whites. This "Spray-max 2K glamour gloss" looks promising and I have already ordered a couple of cans at a whopping $38 just to try it. Even if it still yellows some it looks to be incredibly durable.
I have never had any issues with Duplicolor that grays, yellows or whites. Sounds like you might be spraying too much and too close??
 

jahall4

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I have never had any issues with Duplicolor that grays, yellows or whites. Sounds like you might be spraying too much and too close??
Nope follow directions to a "T" and just enough to get that 3rd coat to flow. Not sure what "too close" has to do with it, but any clear coat the discolors, is a problem as it limits its usefulness to smooth paint transitions and decals.

How often do you paint on pure white?
 

AfterBurners

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Nope follow directions to a "T" and just enough to get that 3rd coat to flow. Not sure what "too close" has to do with it, but any clear coat the discolors, is a problem as it limits its usefulness to smooth paint transitions and decals.

How often do you paint on pure white?
That's weird, if you are getting a yellowish color I think you are right up on it and laying the clear down too thick. I use several as in 6-8 coats...first few coats super light and gradually build from there. Anyway my method doesn't matter you have to find what works best for you...just saying I never experienced any issues. Maybe its bad paint too long of shelf life if that's even possible?
 

jahall4

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That's weird, if you are getting a yellowish color I think you are right up on it and laying the clear down too thick. I use several as in 6-8 coats...first few coats super light and gradually build from there. Anyway my method doesn't matter you have to find what works best for you...just saying I never experienced any issues. Maybe its bad paint too long of shelf life if that's even possible?
Just 2 light coats to get good tack coverage and only 1 more medium coat, just enough to flow and level. And it's not really "yellowing" it, but making it less white. So if you don't clear coat rockets that are predominantly white you might not notice.
 

ksaves2

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All right, here's the gist on rattle can paints. Rustoleum Clear lacquer is quite serviceable.............. but, it's a PITA to do. Have to hit it with three or four coats and any inconsistent layering will be dealt with the finishing off process.
What's that you say? That's initially wet sanding the color coat a bit before shooting the clear coat. Have to make sure the layer of color is even. Then after getting the clear lacquer on, it entails wet sanding with dull 800 grit through
2000 grit to even out the clear coat oh and be careful, don't grind away all the clearcoat. If one has successfully gone through these steps, once they get to the 2000 grit, it's probably going to look kinda shiny. To bring it up to luster is going to
take hand wiping with rubbing compound followed by polishing compound and then ultimately and good car wax. When done, will have an impeccable "wet" shiny finish that is going to get dinged all to heck once one starts flying the rocket.

Oh and in spite of it looking like the paint finish on your car, don't be tempted to use acetone to "clean" dirt off it. You do and it will wipe off all your hard work.

That said, I did make the mistake of using an Rf shielding metallic paint on a Wildman Jr. on the main chute bay where the antenna of a 70cm Rf GPS tracker was going to reside. I unfortunately found out after painting with the metallic paint and after
going through all the steps above that the Rf tracker wasn't going to work worth squat through that paint. I bit the bullet, poured a tray full of acetone and dipped the upper tube in and dissolved everything off down to the fiberglass and started over.
Primer sanding et cetera, et cetera, et cetera using a non-metallic yellow. I was rewarded with an Rf translucent upper bay I've flown 14 times, 13 times completely sight unseen. Nice thing about paint mistakes on a smallish rocket as it's not
quite so bad to start over as opposed to a monster sized subject. Kurt
 

Trident

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What do you clean it with? How well does it resists mild solvents like alcohol and some adhesive cleaners?
I only use water to clean up my rockets after flight, with the exception of any motor residue on aft end or fins. Only the fins would potentially have the clear coat on them. I've used dilute Simple Green, and then wiped down with water after. I'm not using on HPR, i mostly build low and mid power these days. But I do fly mostly reloads, and they can be dirty.

Here is a picture of an Estes Interceptor-E painted with flat paint, gloss clear coated, decals applied, and matte clear coated. No visible decal edges, which would stand out applied directly to flat paint.

2016-02-24 17.15.19.jpg
 
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