Disappointing finishing season

[rbeckey]

This spring has been to warm and/or wet for painting. I need an alternative to the Krylon paints that are so very sensitive to the humidity levels, but are still easy to work with and don't require a week between coats.

 

[sandman]

Boy, I sure have no answers...

I think my next rocket will be covered with contact paper...maybe that will work.

sandman

 

[DynaSoar]

Originally posted by rbeckey
This spring has been to warm and/or wet for painting. I need an alternative to the Krylon paints that are so very sensitive to the humidity levels, but are still easy to work with and don't require a week between coats.

I haven't had those problems with Rustoleum "American Accents" paints. I've had other problems, but except for no metallic paint surviving a clear coat without losing its luster, they've probably been my fault.

 

[flying_silverad]

One of my Beta folks said that he was having way to many problems with Krylon and humidity. He swithed to ACE Hardware paints and although there was a longer drying time, he said the finish was much better and wasn't as sensitive to humidity.

I have two cans (Sounds like some birds LOL) that I am going to try in about a week....if that Mars Probe (OOPS did I say that) ever gets finished.

 

[lalligood]

I have 2 suggestions that have worked for me here in very humid (especially lately thanks to some much needed rain!) & hot Central Florida:

1) Spray later in the day. Typically it's less humid then than in the morning.

2) OK, so you sprayed & it "blushed" (or clouded up). What to do?!? Don't repaint. Instead, go to the automotive dept in Wal-Mart or your local auto parts store. Get an 8oz bottle of 3M Rubbing compound. It'll set you back ~$6. Grab some cotton shop rags too if you don't have an old t-shirt or soft cotton cloth you can use. Shake bottle. Put a dime-sized dollop of compound on cotton cloth. Rub in a circular motion applying steady, firm pressure. Don't panic when you see paint on the cloth! That's exactly what it's supposed to do! However, you will see an AMAZING shine develop on the rocket Wipe off the rocket when finished with a clean cloth. Repeat as necessary until the rocket SHINES This stuff will eliminate blushing, orange peel, & even small runs with a little patience & some "elbow grease" [NOTE: DO NOT USE THIS ON CLEAR COATS!]

 

[Stymye]

annother good anti-blushing brand,

I've been having good results with Duplicolor paints in the summer..the humidity here is relentless..I think it has a much better gloss than krylon produces..

 

[Micromeister]

Rbeckey:
DC is one of the worst places in the country for humidity, and while this spring has indeed been warm and wet. I'm having a real problem understanding your dilemma.

Woud you please, explain EXACTLY what your finishing problem is?
Heres a few questiions that well help narrow the search.
Where do you paint your models EXACTLY?( inside, outside, in direct sunlight or shade. in an enclouser or in the open.)
How do you prepare your models for paint? ( Primer(s) used, sanding method and dust removal method. )

What do you feel is the problem with the finish on your models? (orange peel, crazing, checking, hazing, paint lift)??

I can't for the life of me think of any reason you would be having a problem with Krylon.. it is no more "humidity sensitive then any other "Harry Homeowner or hobbiest" spray paints. Rustolium, Duplicolor, Color works, Pactra, Testors, Easy living, Smooth & Silky(K-Mart), Sherwin-Williams, and Mattos industrial automotive spary paints all have there own quirks but are all formulated for use by john Q public, in normal everyday weather/humidity conditions.
I'll be watching for you comments.

OBTW Dynasoar:
Most metallic, mirror and hi gloss finishes will not allow clearcoating. Solvents in the clear break up the interlockng platelettes turning your mirror chrome into a dull grey. There are a few special formula clears that will not attack certain mirror finihses but they are every product specific and hard to find.

 

[sandman]

Dynasoar,

Clear coat matelic paints with Future Floor Finish. Honestly, it is the only thing that works.

If you use Duplicolor automotive paint...that's different...they love clear coat and shine like a mirror.

As for humidity, paint conditions...

I recently finished (or tried to finish) two models side by side.

Same painting conditions
Same primer
Same everything!
Same time of day.

The only difference was the paint brand.

One brand (the cheapest..on sale) came out PERFECT!
The second brand (3 times as much money for this paint) just plain wouldn't dry right.

Go figure.

sandman

 

[Fore Check]

I don't worry about that cloudy luster that I get when using Krylon gloss paints. I clear coat with Testor's High Gloss Enamel (available at wal-mart right by the rockets and plastic models) and the end result is perfect. You'd never know that any parts were "cloudy" as the whole thing gleams under that Testor's High Gloss.

 

[Micromeister]

Just to raise another issue.
Why do we clearcoat anything? ALL clears yellow, even Future floor finish yellows over a few years. Why do we do this? to protect the decals? it doesn't really, a couple good coats of automotive Wax will provide as much protection without adding that nasty yellowing potential as the model ages. Nu-Finish is a cross linked polymer (not really a wax) that will provide protection and a slick as snake snot finish which also repells dust to a degree..
Personally I haven't used a Gloss clear on anything for more than 6 years. Those of you who have seen my models know they are either super high gloss (Uncoated) or Testors dull coated. NO future, No Gloss clearcoats, NO problems..NO kidding

 

[rbeckey]

Micro,
The problem I was reffering to and that seemed obvious to me considering the content of the post and past posts about the issue, is the haze that forms on Krylon gloss paints in even moderately humid conditions, in my experience. The primer is Krylon or Kilz, neither of which seem to be an issue in low humidity. Sun or shade doesn't seem to make a difference either. The only place I have available to paint is outdoors. I fail to see how a simple enclosure would affect the problem of relative humidity. Dust removal is done with tack cloth, and the primers have been dry for days, week or even months in some cases.
I don't seem to be the only person with this issue. Everybody else seemed to understand the question, so I apologize to you for being too vague. Whatever secret you have for painting with Krylon without clouding the finish in high humidity would be greatly appreciated by all.

 

[Fore Check]

Hey Bob:

If a gloss finish is what you're after in the end, a gloss clear coat will eliminate that cloudy/hazy appearance. After the application of the gloss coat, the "blotchy" appearance goes away and the net result is a uniform, rich, glossy finish.

At least, that has been my experience.

 

[cls]

my next rocket will be covered with contact paper...

yesterday I bought some tank backing paper from the aquarium store. (it's a nice coral reef scene.) not sure how to glue vinyl to cardboard but it's gotta turn out better than some of my paint jobs!

 

[Micromeister]

Originally posted by rbeckey
Micro,
The problem I was reffering to and that seemed obvious to me considering the content of the post and past posts about the issue, is the haze that forms on Krylon gloss paints in even moderately humid conditions, in my experience.

Whatever secret you have for painting with Krylon without clouding the finish in high humidity would be greatly appreciated by all.

Bob:
I am truely at a loss. As i've mentioned many times I do all my painting in my basement Spray booths. neither are humidity contorlled but both have the ability of maintaining 70 degrees or better (thereby possibly drying some of the humidity). Both have good air flow venting to the outside by squirrel cage blowers. Frankly I've never had the problem you speak of while painting in either of my booths. To my recollection I've have only experenced anything like the problem you discribed once. Spraying outdoors in open sunlight, I was using a "store" brand of gloss white as a base coat on a model I build while vacationing at the beach. My first thought was the Very high island humidity.. but after cleaning the nasty paint off, moving the model to a shaded location using the same spraycan the same afternoon the finish came out fine.
My theory is the direct sunlight may be raising the surface temp of the model to a point the pressureized propellant cooled paint is experencing themal shock as it goes on. You may not be seeing a humidity problem at all. Or if it really is humidity by using a heat lamp or even a flood light to warm and dryup some of that moisture it may solve your problem. Try doing some painting in a well ligthted but shady area, let it dry there also.
if that doesn't help, than for sure get some sort of enclosure up to help control the environment.

You really should think about setting up some sort of enclosure for your painting, even if it's outside to help contolling the temp, breeze, falling dust and other such. Doing so can't help but make you painting better, and maybe a little less stressful

Heres a 4 pic page of the Visqueen(Vinyl Bag) Booth I've used for about 20years now. I hope it will give you some ideas
May not but I hope this helps.