der Red Max done - Photo

[scottluther1369]

Well I finished my Der Red Max scracth build. Here is a photo:
https://homepage.mac.com/scottluther/PhotoAlbum20.html

Yes, the detailing needs lots of work. But I wanted to thank you all for your help to this newbie! All of you in this forum to take your time to help me out is really great. I am having such a great time with this hobby! Okay back to Der Red Max I messed up on the detailing (I lost an E on one of them so now I have De Red Max (I didn't think the french made that rocket) . Mainly the decals. But you know what is cool about Phreds decal sheets. I got really bummed out when one of the decals came apart and I looked down and there was a duplicate! A second chance. Unfortuanately I could have used a second chance on a few others <LOL>. Thanks Phred! You do good work. Unfortuately that wasn't my only decal mess up and will probably have to buy another sheet to fix my errors (along with that upscale Screamer Decals just as soon as I get those fin dimensions and body tube slot dimentions and parts worked out - I think it's next on my part order list!!!!! I can HARLY wait).

Thanks guys!
--Scott<the newbie)

 

[Micromeister]

Very Nicely done Scott!

Sorry to hear about your decal problems, they are a common occurence these days. Since most of the after market, or Clone decals are not Silk Screened like the originals were they have a few more quarks you may not know about.
Before you use you next set of after market decals, It's strongly suggested you give them a coat of clear. NAZDAR Decal clear is best, but short of that Sandman knows the name of another brush on material that seems to do a great job. No time to find and buy that.. than try Testors Dull Cote or Gloss coat, Just be very careful with the Gloss coat.. use light coats allowing time for the solvents to flash off before applying another light coat, Some will say Krylon 1301 will work, I've had mixed success with it so I'll just say be very very careful with it, light coating than WAIT.
I usually tape the decal sheet by the corner to a flat work bench top, spray or bursh on whatever clear coat i'm using and let the decal dry overnight. Then you can cut, dip and apply your decals with a little better success. OBTW, applying a fresh coat of Clear to an Old set of decals will allow them to be used as if they were new. Yellowed maybe but they will stay together I use old kit decals from the late 60's and early 70's farily often.

Some after market decal printers coat their computer printed decals after printing and some don't, Tango Papa is one that does not. Others use a very thin coating that sometimes just isn't quite enough to hold the decal together.
How do I know? I print all my own decals with both and Alps printer and/or ink-jet printer with some of the newer ink-jet printable water-slide papers.

 

[astronboy]

Hi Scott,

Based on your private emails to me, it appears that you did not use an overcoat before applying the decals. I personally suggest Microscale Liquid Decal Film, and recommend it in my decal directions. I brush it on with a cheapo 25 cent foam brush from Walmart, and it dries in about 15-20 minutes. This film protects the decal surface, and also 'toughens' the decal abit, so that it does not come apart as easily.

These decals are still relatively fragile, especially as compared to a commercially printed decal.

here is a link to a description of the stuff:

https://www.bare-metal.com/microscale.htm

look for a surprise included with your Screamer fin patterns that mailed out to you today....

Phred
It costs me about $2.00 at my local model train shop.

 

[scottluther1369]

I REALLY appreciate this one! It's been so frustrating because I put so much time in these models and get so dissapointed when the decals and I mean ANY decal Estes etc come apart and ruin the finish. It really bummed me out when it happened on my NEW orbital transport kit with NEW Estes decals. I REALLY appreciate this tip. The cool thing about Phreds decals are he really fills up the sheet and in several cases i got a second chance at my mistake! That is a cool feature!

Phred! What can I say! Thanks for the package being sent. It's getting harder to camp out by the mailbox now that it's snowing/raining and hailing. : )
Thanks to all of you!!!! I just order a couple bottle of that stuff and I'm not putting ANY more decals on until I get it.
Thanks again!!!!
--Scott

 

[Micromeister]

here is a link to a description of the stuff:

https://www.bare-metal.com/microscale.htm


Yea! That's the Stuff, Thanks Phred..I can never remember the name. Microcale liquid decal film..DAH!

 

[astronboy]

I REALLY recommend this Microscale Liquid Decal film. Again, ALPS printed decals are very fragile, and this decal film really beefes them up. For a large roll pattern like the Red Max, I will apply two coats of the film, as there is always some re-arranging to do with this decal.

BTW: This film can be used with old decals as well... if you have a kit that is 5yrs or older, aplly a coat of liquid decal film before cutting out the decals. I once ruined an original set of 1970's Red Max decals as they were all dried out, and I did not yet know about the decal film.


One caution about the Microscale Liquid Decal Film: If applied in a humid atmosphere, the film can blush, or dry cloudy. During the summer, I apply the film in a well air-conditioned room. Sometimes, a second coat of film, applied over the cloudy one, can correct this situation.

I guess nothing is perfect!!

Phred

 

[sandman]

I had some of the liquid decal film cloud up on me and I just applied another coat and the cloudyness went away!