DEEP Cleaning Motor Hardware

[UPscaler]

Alright, folks. I've got a REALLY dirty 98mm Dr. Rocket case that has some pretty substantial motor gunk on the nozzle end. Pretty standard stuff, yes, but it's been that way for probably the better part of 20 years.

I've seen all kinds of techniques get recommended. Soaking in simple green, soaking in WD40, leaving it in soapy water for a week, etc etc.

I've got the big cleaning brush from Chris Short. It's great, but it's not doing what I need to do. This needs to be a chemical solution.

For anyone who's gotten some nasty cases clean without destroying the anodization, how'd you do it?

Braden

 

[cls]

White vinegar. Soak overnight or longer. Rinse very well after.

 

[heada]

Depends on what the "gunk" is from. If it is residue from grease, then soaking in a degreaser would be my first step. If it is from burnt liner, then a mild acid like vinegar but keep in mind that acid attacks the aluminum case so limit the time, rinse well, etc. If it is from combustion products then I'd go with a hot soak in soapy water. All these will soften or loosen the gunk. The brush should then break it up so it can be removed.

 

[SolarYellow]

Acid destroys anodizing.

 

[3stoogesrocketry]

Use un-diluted purple power on the effected areas. If you can soak a paper towel in it then lay it on the area , even better .

 

[CoyoteNumber2]

After you get it clean, inspect for pitted aluminum. I've seen that happen with dirty cases that have sat for years.

 

[UPscaler]

After you get it clean, inspect for pitted aluminum. I've seen that happen with dirty cases that have sat for years.

View attachment 541595

Unfortunately, I'm likely looking at a similar scenario, here.

Braden

 

[Steve Shannon]

Scotchbrite pads and soapy water works about as well as anything. I have scraped thick deposits off with a knife blade.
I do whatever I can to remove deposits as quickly as possible. Soaking just increases the risk of pitting.

 

[H_Rocket]

BraKleen will get some really stubborn crap off.

 

[seth_cooper]

Simple green crystal in a warm ultrasonic bath.

 

[FredA]

Go get a cheap brake hone that fits.
Wire-tie scotch-bright pads over the stone faces.
Spin with a drill on an extender while flooded with 99% isopropyl or some of the other chems listed.
You'll be done before you know it.

 

[alexzogh]

Hoppes 9 foaming bore cleaner worked well when other recommendations didn't. I use it as a last resort since it's expensive (12 per bottle) as a cleaner. Keeps your motors smelling good too

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B1TBB92/

 

[David Schwantz]

all of the above may work. But go get yourself a lead removal cloth. It is used in gun cleaning. Will take burnt carbon off anything.

 

[KB4SMK]

 

[kramer714]

CLP https://www.amazon.com/Break-12-Ounce-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative/dp/B003THLBYU Works well as a claner plus i leave a film of it as a 'release'

 

[Grog6]

Do not leave bare aluminum in simple green, it will add a phosphate layer that can interfere with threaded components. I soaked some aluminum car parts, and the grey layer was not the bright aluminum I was going for, and it wad hard to remove. It will get all the crap off a piston in 15 minutes, but the piston may not fit if you soak it overnight.

 

[Rocketclar]

I usually use white vinegar that evening or next day at max. I have also used Goo-Gone. It helps also with the grease.

 

[bobbyg23]

I

Alright, folks. I've got a REALLY dirty 98mm Dr. Rocket case that has some pretty substantial motor gunk on the nozzle end. Pretty standard stuff, yes, but it's been that way for probably the better part of 20 years.

I've seen all kinds of techniques get recommended. Soaking in simple green, soaking in WD40, leaving it in soapy water for a week, etc etc.

I've got the big cleaning brush from Chris Short. It's great, but it's not doing what I need to do. This needs to be a chemical solution.

For anyone who's gotten some nasty cases clean without destroying the anodization, how'd you do it?

Braden

Just had the same issue and used these. They worked great! Grime stoppers. They have a texture on one side that really scrubs off the crud.

 

[Jester]

Grime Boss wipes work well for me. They can be found at Lowes on the paint aisle.

 

[H_Rocket]

Brakleen disc brake cleaner j has proven useful.

 

[H_Rocket]

Use un-diluted purple power on the effected areas. If you can soak a paper towel in it then lay it on the area , even better .

The only thing is it will bleach the anodizing dye. Does not affect the hard coat, it just removes the color.

 

[SolarYellow]

The sealing step locks the dye in the matrix cells. If the anodizing loses its color, it has lost the seal of the matrix and is substantially compromised. Not gone, but diminished.

 

[StreuB1]

Toilet bowl brush (with the twisted wire through the bristles so you can form it to your liking), wrapped with a green scotchbrite pad and adjusted so it has a lot of tension on it, hot water and dawn dish soap. Scrubadubdub.

Orange cleaner scrubby wipes to get the threads and areas you missed.

Rinse with hot water again.

Dry.

Done.

 

[DarthMuffin]

Most gun cleaners, like people have recommended. I like mpro7, and an ultrasonic cleaner for really stubborn stuff.

 

[Jester]

I clean RMS hardware with these.