Hi Jim,
What kind of motor retention do you have planned? Is there enough length on the motor mount tube to extend it out past the body tube 3/8" to add a Aero Pack or HAMR motor retainer? Will the forward centering ring be able to clear the body tube fin slot(for the forward fins) if the motor mount is pushed back 3/8" or do you have to move the centering ring forward on the motor tube?
Also, is it possible to mount the motor tube and only epoxy the forward CR first and while accomplishing motor tube alignment and centering by putting in a rear CR with temporary tape handles for later removal? My goal would be to apply internal fillets on the fins and add the middle CR's, then the aft fins (followed by fillets) and then the aft CR. Are the internal fillets needed?
Rich
I purposely left 1/4 in of MM hanging out the back for adding an Aero-Pac P version retainer. Tim was out at the time so I am just doing barrel nut insert and mirror clip. Will post a pic later. When I get an AP I will retrofit. That's why the tiny fillet around the rear exterior CR. Installation info on AP below.
Jon was pretty on the money with his reply. This kit is a light weight one and you want to keep it that way if you are flying a full range of motors. As long as you rough up the glass good and get good glue to parts contact, you will be fine. Another little trick would be to butter the fin, install it, remove and butter again. Essentially doing the process twice, that would give you MORE than enough on the MM tube. But if you do that, don't try it with 5 mi., use at least 15minute epoxy or more, otherwise it will start to set up before your through.
There are many ways to build a kit. The one shown will become the manual when I am through, after editing and feedback as usual. I beat the living cr@p out of my rockets and before it's over this one will have flown on a I-200,so I feel confident this build technique will handle it.
This way I know that the product and way to build it will satisfy all those that get one. So far every kit that has been released has held up great to an array of abuse. [this one and all the other Wildman kits]. This is how the Drago is built and the proto type is still around. That one I built with 5 minute, and teeny tiny fillets.[you can view that manual on Wildmans site.link provided below]
I try to show how to build in a simple anyone can copy it,a way that will handle any motor, small or large, keep it strong yet light and not scare the novice from attempting it.
There is a major tendency for people to over build, this only adds weight and puts undo strain on recovery components. It also prevents flying on small motors. I want every one to be able to fly this on F's G's for those not certified and all the way up to 6grain exl's for those wanting to push the envelope, with out worrying it will hold together .
All that said, if you wish to do as you asked....yes that is fine, but not really needed. But as I always say....If it makes you sleep better, by all means, do it!
Rumor has it that I flew a kit with the fins just Duct taped on and it was a success with a H. so there will not be any problems with glue and small fillets.LOL [DON"T TRY IT!}
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