# Cutting Rip-Stop nylon

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#### Handeman

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
I make my own chutes. I had been just cutting the rip-stop with a scissors and sewing. I washed one of those chutes recently and was amazed at the fraying that occurred. It was so bad the seams let loose and ruined the chute.

I had heard about using a soldering iron to cut nylon and had bought a cheap 20 Watt iron for $5 at one of those tool tables. I flattened the tip into a spade shape. It worked GREAT! I cut out a pattern from 1/4 inch luan plywood put it on the nylon and trace it with the soldering iron. It cuts the nylon like it isn't there. Much easier the trying to use paper patterns and cut it with scissors. It melts the edges when it cuts so there is no fraying at all. One tip. When you flatten the tip, leave the edges about a 1/32 to 1/16 wide, and rounded. If it's too sharp, the edges of the nylon might melt back together. #### Micromeister ##### Micro Craftman/ClusterNut TRF Lifetime Supporter TRF Supporter Very nifty tip Handeman! I've been using Olfa rotary wheel knives up to now but this sounds very intersting. Thanks for sharing. #### kandsrockets ##### Well-Known Member I make my own chutes. I had been just cutting the rip-stop with a scissors and sewing. I washed one of those chutes recently and was amazed at the fraying that occurred. It was so bad the seams let loose and ruined the chute. I had heard about using a soldering iron to cut nylon and had bought a cheap 20 Watt iron for$5 at one of those tool tables. I flattened the tip into a spade shape.

It worked GREAT! I cut out a pattern from 1/4 inch luan plywood put it on the nylon and trace it with the soldering iron. It cuts the nylon like it isn't there. Much easier the trying to use paper patterns and cut it with scissors. It melts the edges when it cuts so there is no fraying at all.

One tip. When you flatten the tip, leave the edges about a 1/32 to 1/16 wide, and rounded. If it's too sharp, the edges of the nylon might melt back together.
We cut all our rip stop with a hot knife. I use the standard chisel point that comes with a radio shack soldering iron. Another thing I did with all of our templates is cover the edges with alum duct tape. This keep the nylon from sticking to your template when you hot cut it.

#### luke strawwalker

##### Well-Known Member
Whatever works.

I'm using what I have because I got the 20W pencil for \$4.95. I can probably by another one cheaper then a Weller tip. But like I said earlier about the nickel and the buffalo.....that's just me.
Nothing wrong with cheap... you live on a farm you learn all sorts of creative ways to get cheap in darn near everything...

A farmer can pinch a nickel til the buffalo sh!*s and then use the manure in the garden... LOL Later! OL JR

#### The EGE

##### Well-Known Member
I cut mine with nice sewing scissors... the edges don't fray at all. My mom (I'm a teenager...) machine-sews the edges, and I've never had a problem with fraying.

#### Stymye

##### Well-Known Member
I use a good scissor and hem the edges, makes for a very strong chute

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#### Handeman

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
I cut mine with nice sewing scissors... the edges don't fray at all. My mom (I'm a teenager...) machine-sews the edges, and I've never had a problem with fraying.
You sound like you have to have your Mom sew it because you're a teenager?
Sounds like you need to have your Mom teach you how to use the sewing machine. That's a skill you may not use much, but I know it will come in handy at some point.

#### Handeman

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
I use a good scissor and hem the edges, makes for a very strong chute
I did the same with the first chutes I made. Worked great. Until I tossed them in the wash machine.

I've found the hot blade works even better then the scissors for cutting the nylon.