For Sale Custom Comspec Receiver Compatible Beacons

[dpower]

I flew mine this weekend for the first time, in a more-or-less stock Estes Star Orbiter on a G40, to 3300'. Winds were light, so it didn't drift very far, but I tracked it all the way up and down. I didn't see it on the way down until just a few hundred feet up. Good strong beep, using my ComSpec receiver took me right to it. The vegetation is tall this time of year, and we generally can't see our rockets until we're within a few feet, so trackers are used extensively.

I showed it to fellow fliers, and there was a lot of interest. Many in my club use Com Spec receivers, and our only option once ComSpec went out of business were the LL Electronics transmitters (wonderful, but expensive). I've sent them here, so you may be getting some inquiries.

FYI, the slot in the enclosure is too small for the antenna wire. Easy to file out, so not a big deal.

 

[alstone]

I have quite a few of these, they are a custom designed circuit board. Let me know if you want some or any other information

Please let me know how to order.
Thanks [email protected]

 

[manixFan]

For those of you who have purchased one or more of these beacons, here is a case I designed that is made so it can be easily taped to a shock cord. It includes protection for the antenna and a ridge to keep the top in place on the case. The sides are flat and the width of standard electrical tape so it is easy to tape it right to the shock cord so you don't need any kind of special mount. I've used this method on a number of flights with good success, but you do need to make sure the antenna does not get entangled with the rest of the shock cord or chute.

I've also included a small holder for the beacon with a pusher tool for the 2032 battery. I found it hard to get the battery out of the beacon since it's so small, so I made a small box to hold the beacon while I use a small pusher tool to push the battery out of the holder. It makes it a lot easier to remove the battery without worrying about bending the antenna.


Tony

small case and pusher tool to remove battery:


beacon case with flat sides to allow for easy taping to shock cord:



all four items: bottom and top of case, battery removal case and tool:


STL files of the case and tools:

 

[kjhambrick]

I have one of Tony's cases ( the two parts to the left between (6,7) and (7,8) inches above.

The antenna strain relief channel fits VERY well and the top closes with a satisfying click.

Highly recommended and I hope to fly it on Saturday !

I understand the 4th part between (9,10) inches is a pusher to remove the battery ( I've been using a popsickle stick ) ... but ...

Q for @manixFan: what is the 3rd part, between (8,9) inches above ?

EDIT: oops ! I see it now in your 1st photo ... part #3 is a small case for the transmitter.

Thanks !

-- kjh

 

[manixFan]

I have one of Tony's cases ( the two parts to the left between (6,7) and (7,8) inches above.

The antenna strain relief channel fits VERY well and the top closes with a satisfying click.

Highly recommended and I hope to fly it on Saturday !

I understand the 4th part between (9,10) inches is a pusher to remove the battery ( I've been using a popsickle stick ) ... but ...

Q for @manixFan: what is the 3rd part, between (8,9) inches above ?

Thanks !

-- kjh

The third part is a small case to hold the beacon while you push out the battery. I found it was very easy to bend the antenna when trying to push out the 2032 battery, so I made a small case that protects the circuit board and antenna while you use the small tool (or popsicle stick) to push out the battery. I've attached a picture of just the case with a beacon below.


Tony


case to protect the antenna and circuit board while you push out the 2032 battery:

 

[WV8KE]

PM sent. Hoping to try these beacons with a new to me Commspec loCATor

 

[Frozen]

These work great and are so much smaller than the pictures! Highly recommend

 

[Joe Rocket 97]

Are they still available?

 

[Brainstormz123]

Are they still available?

Yep, i got quite a few left. Send me a message!

 

[dpower]

Another successful recovery, this time in a So Long flying F15-0 / F15-8 to ~2800'. Great transmitters Alex!

 

[BenCook]

Are they still available?

 

[kramer714]

I Like the trackers, and the case, but I wanted case that was a little more versatile (mounting options) and robust. I did a family of cases, with three different components that can be mixed or matched. I will post the STL to the 3d printing section. I wanted to be able to....

• cable tied together - simple or can be used to attach to a shock cord, or to make a loop
• screwed together - robust can be taped, clamped, or stuffed
• mounted to a sled - simple screw pattern can be mounted to a sled, bulkhead or even body tube
• shock cord harness - clamps over a shock cord (i used 5/8 tubular nylon)

Plus I made countersunk and button head versions #4 screws and #6 screws

 

[kramer714]

For those of you who have purchased one or more of these beacons, here is a case I designed that is made so it can be easily taped to a shock cord. It includes protection for the antenna and a ridge to keep the top in place on the case. The sides are flat and the width of standard electrical tape so it is easy to tape it right to the shock cord so you don't need any kind of special mount. I've used this method on a number of flights with good success, but you do need to make sure the antenna does not get entangled with the rest of the shock cord or chute.

I've also included a small holder for the beacon with a pusher tool for the 2032 battery. I found it hard to get the battery out of the beacon since it's so small, so I made a small box to hold the beacon while I use a small pusher tool to push the battery out of the holder. It makes it a lot easier to remove the battery without worrying about bending the antenna.


Tony

small case and pusher tool to remove battery:
View attachment 659140

beacon case with flat sides to allow for easy taping to shock cord:
View attachment 659141


all four items: bottom and top of case, battery removal case and tool:
View attachment 659142

STL files of the case and tools:

The pusher tool is almost a must!

 

[rharshberger]

OP are there any of these beacons still available for purchase?

 

[rfjustin]

I Like the trackers, and the case, but I wanted case that was a little more versatile (mounting options) and robust. I did a family of cases, with three different components that can be mixed or matched. I will post the STL to the 3d printing section. I wanted to be able to....

• cable tied together - simple or can be used to attach to a shock cord, or to make a loop
• screwed together - robust can be taped, clamped, or stuffed
• mounted to a sled - simple screw pattern can be mounted to a sled, bulkhead or even body tube
• shock cord harness - clamps over a shock cord (i used 5/8 tubular nylon)

Plus I made countersunk and button head versions #4 screws and #6 screws

Dude! Can I buy a couple of the orange ones please? Those looks great!

 

[tim cubbedge]

OP are there any of these beacons still available for purchase?

They are. I just bought a few more. Send him a message.

 

[lr64]

Anyone know how much these weigh?

 

[rfjustin]

Anyone know how much these weigh?

4 grams just the tracker, 12 with a case and battery.

 

[kramer714]

I Like the trackers, and the case, but I wanted case that was a little more versatile (mounting options) and robust. I did a family of cases, with three different components that can be mixed or matched. I will post the STL to the 3d printing section. I wanted to be able to....

• cable tied together - simple or can be used to attach to a shock cord, or to make a loop
• screwed together - robust can be taped, clamped, or stuffed
• mounted to a sled - simple screw pattern can be mounted to a sled, bulkhead or even body tube
• shock cord harness - clamps over a shock cord (i used 5/8 tubular nylon)

Plus I made countersunk and button head versions #4 screws and #6 screws

added an all-thread mount to the 'family..

STL files are posted on the 3d printing page.

 

[kjhambrick]

added an althread mount to the 'family..

View attachment 675706
View attachment 675707

I love it !

What thread size is that in the pic ?

Thanks

-- kjh

 

[kramer714]

I love it !

What thread size is that in the pic ?

Thanks

-- kjh

I did 1/4-20 figuring that would be as big as I would use, can do smaller ones too.

 

[rfjustin]

I did 1/4-20 figuring that would be as big as I would use, can do smaller ones too.

These are great, thanks again!

 

[dvdsnyd]

Morning all,
I've been playing with these beacons a bit this summer.
I do not have a Comspec Rx, so I've been using these on the 440 Mhz band with a Quansheng UV-K5 radio with some modified firmware that allows better resolution on the signal strength meter. This enhances the Radio direction finding capabilities of the radio. Pairing this radio with an inexpensive Moxon antenna has allowed me to find my beloved Aerotech Cheetah over the summer after losing it in a soybean field. I surely thought it went into the corn. Had I not had the tracker combination, the rocket would have been lost.

I have also made a case for mine. Although, mine utilizes a small 1s lipo battery, instead of the coincells. Maybe it had to do more with the cheap coin cells I was using, but I didn't like the performance I was getting. Keep in mind, I'm using the FSK mode for the beacon, vs the lower power CW mode that ComSpec uses. I am also using a little different beep pattern than Andrew is for the stock FSK versions.
This all may play a role in my experience with the coin cells.
Here's the case with modified beacon.
I took the Coin cell holder off and replaced it with a small latching connector commonly found on small lipos.

This combination easily fits in a small BT-50 airframe.




One more thing that I have done, which may be more exciting than the case is I've replaced the wire whip antenna with a material called nitinol.
This was a bit of a learning process. You can't easily solder nitinol...well I couldn't come up with a good way anyways. I ended up crimping on a bootstrap ferrule to the end of the antenna and soldering that to the board. Works really good!
The pictures I have shown below has a red bit of heatshrink tubing over the antenna. I don't know that I would bother with this. It doesn't add anything really.
It's more of a hassle, because the nitinol wire is really too thin for even the smallest of heat shrink tubing I could find.
Anyways, You can practically tie the nitinol antenna in a knot and it will extend straight again. I believe because it is so flexible, it adds a lot of strain relief to the solder joint on the board. It also helps with deployment when attaching the beacon to a shock cord. It all but ensures a nice straight antenna which will help with range and reception.

Pics below show the antenna and tying it up and flexing it. It always goes back straight.
Also can see in the last pic that the beacon with case fits nicely in a BT-50 tube. The coin cell version with case cannot do that.
Case doesn't need any fasteners. Beacon and battery slide in on rails and the lid loosely snaps in. Electrical tape is used to keep the lid on and tracker attached to the shock cord.
Curious as to your thoughts!
Dave

 

[dvdsnyd]

@davidb123 I responded to your message. Not sure if you are being alerted to it or not.
Dave

 

[BenCook]

I ordered a couple of the beacons in 70cm and they came with a coiled up antenna. Designed and printed a case. Took some inspiration from some of what others have done for battery ejection. Here are some pics and a YouTube video.

 

[manixFan]

I ordered a couple of the beacons in 70cm and they came with a coiled up antenna. Designed and printed a case. Took some inspiration from some of what others have done for battery ejection. Here are some pics and a YouTube video.

Very nice case – I like how you integrated battery removal into the design so it does not require two separate parts like mine does. That little coil antenna is also very nice – maybe report back on how well it works in the field if you would.


Tony

 

[tfish]

I picked up some CR2032 coin batteries at the Dollar store.

It was still going after 10 hours.


Your mileage may vary...

Tony

 

[manixFan]

I picked up some CR2032 coin batteries at the Dollar store.

It was still going after 10 hours.
View attachment 677484

Your millage may vary...

Tony

I found that mine ran for a couple of days (I think? I recall it was at least a full day) – as the voltage drops it seems to adjust the cycle frequency and power output. I discovered it by accident when I forgot to take the battery out and then turned on the reciever a couple days later and it started beeping. It kinda freaked me out a bit to hear it when I was not expecting it.

Maybe @Brainstormz123 can explain how it's programmed to behave as voltage drops?


Tony

 

[dvdsnyd]

I found that mine ran for a couple of days (I think? I recall it was at least a full day) – as the voltage drops it seems to adjust the cycle frequency and power output. I discovered it by accident when I forgot to take the battery out and then turned on the reciever a couple days later and it started beeping. It kinda freaked me out a bit to hear it when I was not expecting it.

Maybe @Brainstormz123 can explain how it's programmed to behave as voltage drops?


Tony

Tony,
This is close to the behavior that I was experiencing.
Could see it with the LED on the unit going dim when transmissions weren't at full power.

I have also played around with programming different tones and length of tones specifically.
I am running 70cm FSK, vs CW. I wonder if FSK eats up a bit more power?
I was seeing goofy transmissions when transmitting for 5-10 seconds with 10 second pauses between.
I think this mode was eating the power of the battery pretty quickly, then going into a different frequency/power output. Almost like it was transmitting every other time instead of each time. Power level was all over the place too, which made it difficult to track my rocket down.
I've since settled on more of a beep similar to the original Rocket Hunters.
It needs to be on long enough for the cheap radio I'm using to be able to pick it up and get a good read on the signal strength meter. And play frequently enough to be able to get a read on it. Traditional RDF hunting has a much longer pause between transmissions as I understand.
Hopefully this makes some sense...
Dave

 

[manixFan]

At the risk of stepping on @Brainstormz123 toes, I've attached a chart that he either emailed me or posted that shows how the beacons respond to voltage drop. I looked through this thread and didn't see it here, or if it is, it's just a link and not embedded. (Unless I completely missed it.) But it does show that as voltage drops the beacon does respond by moderating output power and duration. Hopefully though we'll get a bit more thorough overview of how they are programmed.


Tony


I don't recall exactly how I got this (probably earlier in this thread but I couldn't find it). It shows what happens as voltage drops: