Curious about MicroMaxx

[Micromeister]

Doug Pratt recently became a Quest distributor, I'm not sure if his will be stocking or placing as requested orders for Micro Maxx motors, models and kits from Quest. but he has and is developing a few Micor models as well. Good web site also www.pratthobbies.com

 

[n3tjm]

I use my own method of ignition. A little bit of 4FG in the core, and some Magnelite to seal it, and walla. Tape a igniter to it, and walla, it works great! But, we did find that the ignition time of them varry, so its not that good method for clustering.

 

[Micromeister]

Doug:
I can't say this strongly enough: If you are only igniting single micro motors there is absolutely NO reason to add anything to the bare Nichrome wire. You gain nothing by the addtition of extras and as you've learned in some cases it makes ignition slower. Most of the ignition failures with micros is a low voltage/amprage problem easily correctable with an incease in battery power a much easier fix for most folks to accomplish than adding junk to the motor.

 

[n3tjm]

Besides having a cool ignition, my big fingures make it tough to use nichrome wire as igniters . This method is just easier for me.

 

[graylensman]

Micromister

I've got a 13mm balsa nose and tons of 13mm bt to match. If I were to make a "tweenscaled" rocket for MMX - something like a Red Max or Goblin - would i be building a bird too heavy for MMX motors?

*** I've got so many other rocket projects (read: money spent) to start and finish, I don't want to get too distracted by getting heavily into MicroMaxx just now. On the other hand, these birds seem too cool to not check out. so I want to test the waters, so to speak, with what I've got handy.

 

[sandman]

greylensman

BT-5's work great! Do it!

Some of my best MMX flyers are based on a BT-5 tube.

The Apogee Components BT-5 centering ring (maybe other would work too) works great to center a MMX engine tube.

bend a tiny piece of wire to act as an engine hook and you'll have a perfect little "downscale"

sandman

 

[sandman]

Here is mine.

The litttle one is based on a BT-5

sandman

 

[graylensman]

Thanks, Sandman - very inspiring! I know what's next in line to build now...

 

[Micromeister]

Greylenman:
sorry I'm a little late on this thread, with the Fourm going on and off line so much I've not been follow things very well
As sandman mentioned, BT-5 (13mm) stuff can be fine, I have a couple BT-20 micro-maxx models.. Weight is the enemy! 10grams and below fly wonderfully, 11 to 14grams are OK, 25 to 30 feet, 15 to about 18 grams questionable.. some are Ok for 8 to 10' some a little lower I have a 20.3 gram LOwt SkyDart that is just to heavy to clear the rod on MM-II motors. So keep em light as possible and Have a blast.
I'm very partical to the 10.5mm and .375" (T-3) body tubes for downscales and true scale models.. they allow all the detail without the weight. My Micro Laser-X is BT-5 max OD 10.6g EWt, and it fly's well on the MM-II motors. heres a pic
Hope this helps!

Doug:
I'm just a little guy also 6'-2" 300lb former full back, I ware a size 14 ring. Our dainty fingers need to be exercised to keep them nimble Ya gotta do what ya gotta do Ah HA HA

 

[Micromeister]

I just got a batch of T-2+-T-3 Fiberboard centering rings from Totally Tubular..They now have T-2+ rings for T-3(.375") T-4 (10.5mm) and T-5(Bt-5). T-2 tubeing .236" telescopes into the T-2+(.281") which works great for motor stops, nose cone shoulders etc. Very good stuff!

 

[graylensman]

thanks for all your ideas and support! After I finish my next two projects, I'm definitely going to take it to the Maxx!