kyrixa10
Member
I'm not so sure I want to fly my J145..... Sounds like gluing the grains in might be the best solution for now.
Yes3) The reload kit came with a long thin cardboard tube that is not mentioned in the instructions as far as I can tell. My only guess is that one is supposed to run the igniter through it before inserting into the motor to help ensure it touches the top of the motor, but I wanted to check.
You don't need to grease the smoke grain, the 75mm front closure is plugged. 99% of the people that I know use Super Lube for greasing the threads/o-rings, it's a silicone grease that's readily available from most hardware stores.Currently getting ready to assemble my first Pro-75 motor and have a few questions:
1) The instructions mention greasing the inside of the forward closure assembly and forward end of the smoke grain, but don't mention what type of grease to use. I have a tube of Lucas Oil White Lithium Grease on hand. Would that work? If not what should I use?
(Also, I also have a spray can of 3-In-One silicone lubricant. I'm thinking of spraying a thin coat of it into the metal case before inserting the liner to help with removing it post-flight. Is this a good idea?)
2) The instructions seem to be written for Gen 1 hardware, but I am using Gen 2. Am I correct in assuming that the guidelines for how much to tighten the rear closure and forward retaining ring are the same for both generations of hardware?
3) The reload kit came with a long thin cardboard tube that is not mentioned in the instructions as far as I can tell. My only guess is that one is supposed to run the igniter through it before inserting into the motor to help ensure it touches the top of the motor, but I wanted to check.
It dose help with after flight clean up if one greases sides and end of smoke grain that goes down into rear clouser.You don't need to grease the smoke grain, the 75mm front closure is plugged. 99% of the people that I know use Super Lube for greasing the threads/o-rings, it's a silicone grease that's readily available from most hardware stores.
The Gen1/Gen2 instructions are really identical, the main thing is that the forward closure ring needs to be flush with the front of the case. Sometimes (if not usually...) the rear closure will not go in flush with the case once you tighten the front closure ring, it it's tight and there's less than 1/8" of gap then you got it correct. Just make sure that you clean the heck out of the threads on both the case and the closures afterwards... a stiff nylon brush is ideal for that since it won't scratch the case.
With a handful of exceptions, yes. The exceptions (Imax? I forget) have pyrogen on them but I'm not sure if their current requirements are different.Are the CTI igniters that come with the 54mm motors the same as e-matches we use for altimeter charges (9 volt)?
Some of the other do too, and CTI has been known to change them for the same motor. For example I have burnt several J430 some have had a pellet in the fore grain lit with a match, some no pellet lit with a pyrogen encased ematch.With a handful of exceptions, yes. The exceptions (Imax? I forget) have pyrogen on them but I'm not sure if their current requirements are different.
Good guesses! Have you seen my assembly video for the CTI K1085 (75mm 2 grain)?Currently getting ready to assemble my first Pro-75 motor and have a few questions:
1) The instructions mention greasing the inside of the forward closure assembly and forward end of the smoke grain, but don't mention what type of grease to use. I have a tube of Lucas Oil White Lithium Grease on hand. Would that work? If not what should I use?
(Also, I also have a spray can of 3-In-One silicone lubricant. I'm thinking of spraying a thin coat of it into the metal case before inserting the liner to help with removing it post-flight. Is this a good idea?)
2) The instructions seem to be written for Gen 1 hardware, but I am using Gen 2. Am I correct in assuming that the guidelines for how much to tighten the rear closure and forward retaining ring are the same for both generations of hardware?
3) The reload kit came with a long thin cardboard tube that is not mentioned in the instructions as far as I can tell. My only guess is that one is supposed to run the igniter through it before inserting into the motor to help ensure it touches the top of the motor, but I wanted to check.
I still have one in my launch box. It needs to take a ride in my Blackhawk 38. I just need a waiver to contain it.Are the 38mm I800 reloads still available? These make me giggle. 800 Newtons for half a second is a hoot!
It varies..Does anyone happen to know the nozzle exit diameter of the M840?
Before a seal disk in a AT motor the fiber washer was placed on top of top grain next to forward closure. Never see one on a CTI reload.Question on assembling the K300-P long burn:
The reload kit comes with a thick fiber washer that I have never encountered before in other CTI 54mm reloads. Where does it go?
Thanks,
Kevin.
There shouldn't be any washers in the reload. Could you PM me a pic?Question on assembling the K300-P long burn:
The reload kit comes with a thick fiber washer that I have never encountered before in other CTI 54mm reloads. Where does it go?
Thanks,
Kevin.
PM sent with pic of the washer.There shouldn't be any washers in the reload. Could you PM me a pic?
Bob.
Sorry this happened to you. This issue has kept me from buying CTI54mm loads for years.Wish I had knew about the 54mm 5G and 6G issues. Was on a 5G K600 white.
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My (2) H135 Pro29 motors performed flawlessly to get my Level 1 last weekend. Super easy for me to load it in the rocket even with my very low hand strength. I'll never use any other motors than CTI
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