Cosmodrome Nike Apache

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The third fin was were it stopped going so well. It mounted easy enough and I kept eyeballing alignment and finally realized that the 1st and 3rd did not line up as well as they should. I don't blame anybody for that except me but it is a reason I prefer the wrap around guides to the butt end ones.

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Fortunately, the final fin was OK. All were filleted with epoxy.

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You may recall that early on in the building of the motor mount, the instructions called for the use of some cardstock to wedge between the retaining screw and the tube. I recalled it as well as I got the the next step and realized that I had cut the strips from the wrong piece of cardstock. The piece I had cut was supposed to be used as the forward wrap on the Apache. Fortunately, the wrap was a little bit big and needed to be cut down a bit. That helped somewhat but there would still be an ugly gap in one part of the seam. It was something that I would have to fix with filler later on.

I wrapped the forward part of the Apache tube with Saran Wrap to protect it from moisture and the sprayed the Apache wrap with water to make it more pliable. It was placed around the tube, tied into place and allowed to dry out overnight. The next day, it had taken on its new shape.

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Epoxy was then brushed onto the inner surface of the wrap and it was applied to the forward end of the Apache. I tried to line the seam up with the long line which had been run the length of the tube but must have let it shift without noticing while getting things aligned. The wrap was held in place with tape as the epoxy set up.

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The wrapped, forward end of the Apache was pressed against the tube marking guide and the lines were transferred. A mark was then made on each of the lines a specified distance from the forward end. If my memory serves, each was 5-13/63". These marks were to locate the penetrations for the antennae.

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The penetrations were supposed to be made with a drill. To my horror, I realized that I had left my drill elsewhere doing some actual maintenance to the house and that I was probably going to have to wait to work further. Thinking about it, though, the bit I needed was small and the materials to be drilled through were not tough. On a lark, I tried just twirling the bit between my fingers. It worked!

Surprisingly, the next step was one of the toughest for me. The antennae are formed by a pair of styrene rods Each is to be pushed through a pair of opposing hole. Getting the rods through the first hole was easy. Getting it through the hole on the other side required a commodity of which I am chronically in short supply: patience. Then getting the one through orthogonal to the first is even tougher since the holes are at the same level. I never would have thought I could get them that exact. When the two rods were in place, I made sure that the same amount stuck out in each instance and then used some epoxy to fix them into place within the tube.

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The kit comes with a hefty lead slug to be used as nose weight and move the CG forward. Installation of the slug was simple. Some epoxy was slathered around the top of the Apache tube and the slug inserted. More epoxy was slathered on the top of the slug and then the Apache nose cone was seated. The entire Apache assembly was then inverted to allow things to set up in place.

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The basis of the shock cord system is the steel cable already installed. To this is added a long piece of bungee-like cord. It was bent to the steel cable with a double sheet bend. At the opposite end, a loop was tied about a foot back from the bitter end. The bitter end was then tied to the eye screw in the transition.

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For the final step of the assembly, the Apache base was glued to the transition. Although the instructions called for epoxy, I used white glue since this did not seem to be a major failure point to me.

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The first step in finishing this beast was to mix up some Elmer's filler and start filling in the imperfections. These included the grain on the fins, on the balsa and the seams on the wraps. I put it on rather thick and gave it about a week to dry completely.

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Then the laborious sanding process began.

The nosecone and Apache wrap were not too bad. The wrap still needed some more work but the fairing was better than it had been.

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The Apache fins and transition were a bit more work to sand. It was not difficult but it was tedious. The appearance was definitely improved but there were still some pits in the transition that I was not happy with.

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Likewise, the Nike fins and wrap were not difficult to sand, just tedious. I used a file and sanding stick to get right up next to the wrap. That helped but there were still some pits to take care of on the wrap seam.

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For the next round of filling, I decided to try some Squadron green putty instead. The seam of the Apache wrap got a layer along its entire length but the cone needed nothing more.

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The Apache fins also needed nothing else but putty was used to fill the pits on the transition.

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Finally, the Nike wrap seam got a stream of putty as well and the Nike fins needed none.

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After a day to dry, I attacked the putty with the sandpaper. It took care of the pits in the transition and nothing further was needed there.

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The wrap seams on both the Apache and the Nike were another story and needed a bit more. I went back to the Elmer's filler this time and, after it had been dried and sanded, I was satisfied enough to go on.

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After dusting everything off, the Nike Apache was taken to the booth to begin the priming process. I started out by spraying 2 sides with Kilz. A day later, the rocket was rotated and I sprayed the other two sides.

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The Kilz dried for a couple of days and then I took a closer look. The rocket had developed a BAD case of the "fuzzies" especially where the wraps had gotten sanded while removing the filler material. I took it back to the bench and sanded it smooth.

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After dusting things off, it was back to the booth where the real painting began. On examining the directions, I saw that the body of the Nike was supposed to be white. This was in accordance with my "memory" of the Nike series. With that in mind, I went ahead and sprayed on a layer of white.

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What I had a question about, though, was the coloration of the Nike fins. I had imagined the normal fluorescent scheme but they were not mentioned in the instructions. The black and white photos I had seen were unclear on the matter and, for some reason, I thought that this rocket would be different. So it is that I sent a message to Cosmodrome asking and he got back to me quickly. It wasn't the answer I expected though. He told me the matter was unclear and sent me some links. Some versions did indeed have the fluorescent red fins. The one that captured my interest though, had a dark red Nike body and fins. I altered my plans then and there. It also had red Apache fins but of a possible florescent cast. That's what I decided to try and do. The photo I liked can be seen here: https://www.skyrocket.de/space/img_lau/nike_apache.jpg

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When the white had dried, I took the rocket back out and found that I had the "fuzzies" again, though not as badly, in the same places as before. A little sanding took care of that and I began to mask off the upper body, above the transition, to protect it from the red I was going to use.

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I chose "garnet red" from Rustoleum for the Nike section. The rocket was set in the booth and given 3 coats.

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The next day the masking was removed and I liked the result.

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The Nike section was then masked off and the rocket was taken back to the booth. Two coats of white were applied.

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Examination showed that the same fuzzies that had afflicted the Nike had done so to the Apache as well, but to a lesser degree. They were sanded down with #400 paper.

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The rocket was then taken back to the booth for another coat of white.

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The rocket sat with the white drying for a few days as I attended to other issues and then the masking tape was gotten out to cover everything around the base of the Apache except for the fins.

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