### Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

#### rfjustin

##### Well-Known Member
For those working at home and need a laugh:

#### goose_in_co

##### Well-Known Member
EAC Semi-FireCat and the Crossbow SST in the paint booth.

And a Crossfire in the Fin Jig.

I built a Flip-Flyer as well. It went so fast I didn't get any pictures. I did the single piece recovery modification on it.

TRF Supporter

#### Wally Ferrer

##### SRE
TRF Supporter
...
Can you say I'm binging on plane-like kits right now?
Just got a couple of discontinued Sunwards, the Liberator and the Maverick.

#### Wally Ferrer

##### SRE
TRF Supporter
Nice to see some folks are getting stuff done. Can't count myself among them unfortunately.

Morerockets is a mystery to me. Are they officially licensed by Estes? I mean, it's weird that they *and* Semroc are both producing an Andromeda kit right now.
The 'About Us' says they do repro and clones with permission. For what it's worth...

#### neil_w

##### Hunkered down and slowly going crazy
TRF Supporter
Ah, I missed that somehow, thanks.

#### goose_in_co

##### Well-Known Member
Crossfire ISX, and the Estes FireCat in the paint booth.

I sure am glad that I have this paint booth, it has been really handy this winter/spring.

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
OK, Estes shuttle glider is done now.
I was going to paint the bottom black, but figured it will only add weight. It's at 44.2 g right now, already porky.

BTW, how are you supposed to trim the weight balance of a glider - balance it for flying into the wind, or with the wind?
Mine glides nicely with the wind, but nose dive into it.

Next up, glue the wings onto the Screaming Eagle, and start another kit.
Either Interceptor, Cosmic Interceptor, Black Star Voyager, or 4" Seawolf?

#### goose_in_co

##### Well-Known Member
The EAC Semi-FireCat and the Crossbow SST are completed. The FireCat has turned into a Navy drone with the help from what old decals I had left in my stash.

Those are done, Now the Crossfire, Little John Clone, and an Astron Explorer. Should keep me busy for a while longer.

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
The EAC Semi-FireCat and the Crossbow SST are completed. The FireCat has turned into a Navy drone with the help from what old decals I had left in my stash.
Pretty!
How did you get the black paint inside the air-duct/tube?
Did you rattle-can spray it first, or used a brush?

I have another scratch-build rocket that needs finishing touches, and getting uniform paint coating inside the various tubes is my current kryptonite.

#### neil_w

##### Hunkered down and slowly going crazy
TRF Supporter
Pretty!
How did you get the black paint inside the air-duct/tube?
Did you rattle-can spray it first, or used a brush?
I know you're not asking me, but for what it's worth I do it with a brush.

#### o1d_dude

##### 'I battle gravity'
I know you’re not asking me either...but there’s a lot of masking tape involved.

#### goose_in_co

##### Well-Known Member

Spray Primer, Spray White, Mask, Spray Red, Remove masking, Brush paint flat black inside the tube, Decal, then the good old Future that I bought 15 years ago for a clear coat. Future is a floor wax that goes by a different name today, don't remember since I have half a bottle left.
That is my typical process for gloss rockets, for flat, I will spray dull cote over the gloss paint. I find that the gloss paint takes decals much better than flat, and then the dull cote makes everything flat.

Goose

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Neil, o1d_dude, goose_in_co,
Thanks for all of your responses!
I wasn't directing my question to anyone in particular, more towards the great TRF brain trust of folks who are way better at rocket finishing then myself.

Below is a picture of my Kraken-inspired scratch build components, after multiple paths of masking and spraying paint inside and outside of the tubes.
The interior of the larger tube looks half decent, but that's after 5+ coats from various angles, with over-spray finding its way onto the black exterior. I'm pretty certain that if I mask the interior and respray the outside black coat, black paint will find it's way onto the interior surfaces. As to the smaller tube, spraying red inside of it is way beyond my skill level.

Time to give paint brushes a chance, I guess.

#### neil_w

##### Hunkered down and slowly going crazy
TRF Supporter
I have not found it to be a problem to mask the inside of the tube to spray the outside. I brush pain the inside first, then tape it up, then do the outside. No issues.

The Kraken tubes are interesting because they have a *lot* of exposed inner area, which looks good sprayed (as in your picture). So you have two choices for the inside:
1) spray the easy parts (as shown), and then use a brush to fill in the rest. Downside: for perfect paint match, you need to use the spray paint for the brush work. I've never tried to brush a large area with it before. Upside: the tube portions in back don't get seen very much.

2) brush the entire inside with the paint of your choice. Downside: the big visible area becomes a good test of your brush technique. Upside: the whole thing is done in one step, and you can choose the perfect paint.

Given your current status it would appear that you're headed for #1.

@mbeels, how did you paint your Kraken tubes?

#### mbeels

##### Yes balsa
TRF Supporter
@mbeels, how did you paint your Kraken tubes?
1) I first painted the interior and got that to look as I wanted.
2) Then I masked around the inside diameter of the lip (so sticky side out)
3) Inserted a piece of rolled up poster board. *sproing
4) Taped the poster board in place with more wraps of masking tape.
5) sprayed the interior color over the seam to seal off the joint. This prevents any of the exterior color from bleeding under and getting into the interior of the tube.
6) sprayed the exterior color.

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Alright, not the work I'm most product of, but I now have a SpaceX Falcon 9 ready for flight on 24mm motors.
3-foot away pic is below:

Gory details here:

There is no advertised finished weight on the kit, but I found someone else's .rkt file that had it weighted in at 269g.
Mine came in at 229g / 8 oz, and that is inclusive of all the modifications, fin fillets, proper nylon chute (plastic one from the kit went into trash), Kevlar chute blanket, chute swivel, noodle filler in the payload fairing, etc.

She sims to 400 ft on D12, 777 ft on E12, and 1542 ft on F39.

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#### AfterBurners

##### Well-Known Member
I wish I had the time to work more on the projects I have in my build pile. I went out and bought some spray paint yesterday for my PML kit, but they didn't have the color I wanted. I'm looking for a nice silver paint, any suggestions? I plan on painting the rocket silver and then the nose cone red and the inside portion of the fins red. Silver seems to cover primer pretty easy. I'm getting lazy with my paint jobs. I'm picking base colors that cover the primer in one or two coats and then adding accent colors.

#### Wally Ferrer

##### SRE
TRF Supporter
I wish I had the time to work more on the projects I have in my build pile. I went out and bought some spray paint yesterday for my PML kit, but they didn't have the color I wanted. I'm looking for a nice silver paint, any suggestions? I plan on painting the rocket silver and then the nose cone red and the inside portion of the fins red. Silver seems to cover primer pretty easy. I'm getting lazy with my paint jobs. I'm picking base colors that cover the primer in one or two coats and then adding accent colors.
I really get good results with Rusto Metallics over one coat of gloss black. I like the chromes for shiny, and the silver or aluminum for a more 50's sci-fi looking silver. I usually do the gloss black followed by the metallic between fifteen and thirty minutes later. For chrome I'll add a second chrome coat about fifteen minutes after the first, so I also tend to spray the first chrome coat closer to the fifteen minute mark to be done within an hour of applying the black. I sort of consider the black and metallic as 'one color' due to applying them in the same session. Any accents I will wait two days before I'll start any masking, so that adds a few days, but the work is doing the masking.

#### AfterBurners

##### Well-Known Member
I really get good results with Rusto Metallics over one coat of gloss black. I like the chromes for shiny, and the silver or aluminum for a more 50's sci-fi looking silver. I usually do the gloss black followed by the metallic between fifteen and thirty minutes later. For chrome I'll add a second chrome coat about fifteen minutes after the first, so I also tend to spray the first chrome coat closer to the fifteen minute mark to be done within an hour of applying the black. I sort of consider the black and metallic as 'one color' due to applying them in the same session. Any accents I will wait two days before I'll start any masking, so that adds a few days, but the work is doing the masking.
I shouldn't but I'm spraying Duplicolor over Rusto but I'll try it first on a practice piece to make sure it doesn't go goofy. IDK I'll check out home depot tomorrow and see what they have??

#### Wally Ferrer

##### SRE
TRF Supporter
I shouldn't but I'm spraying Duplicolor over Rusto but I'll try it first on a practice piece to make sure it doesn't go goofy. IDK I'll check out home depot tomorrow and see what they have??
Let us know how the mixed brands works- I haven't mixed, but I think timing is far more critical than anything else, besides mixing say water-based with oil-based- but no direct knowledge of either.

#### AfterBurners

##### Well-Known Member
Let us know how the mixed brands works- I haven't mixed, but I think timing is far more critical than anything else, besides mixing say water-based with oil-based- but no direct knowledge of either.
I'll keep you posted

##### Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
I'm looking for a nice silver paint, any suggestions? I plan on painting the rocket silver and then the nose cone red and the inside portion of the fins red. Silver seems to cover primer pretty easy. I'm getting lazy with my paint jobs. I'm picking base colors that cover the primer in one or two coats and then adding accent colors.
This DupliColor Ultra Silver has been super-reliable for me (same for red, black, and white), and is available from your local automotive supply store (AutoZone, PepBoys), as well as off Amazon.

It goes over anything (any primer, straight plastic, etc), doesn't run, ready to re-coast in under 60 seconds, and fully dries in under 15 minutes.
The coats are light, so don't over-saturate the layer, just spray another one in a minute. 2-3 layers achieve even coverage.

Let us know how the mixed brands works- I haven't mixed, but I think timing is far more critical than anything else, besides mixing say water-based with oil-based- but no direct knowledge of either.
DupliColor over Rustoleum or Krylon primer definitely works well.

My go-to primer right now is Krylon Industrial Tough Coat Light Gray Sandable Primer. It is mix of paint with some gooey substance that builds up volume really fast, and sands easily. Dries fast too.

Granted, I sand the majority of the primer layer (a few times over and over) to even the surface before the color coat goes on, so what's left is about 80% primer saturated cardboard and 20% primer coat.

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#### AfterBurners

##### Well-Known Member
This DupliColor Ultra Silver has been super-reliable for me (same for red, black, and white), and is available from your local automotive supply store (AutoZone, PepBoys), as well as off Amazon.
View attachment 419570
It goes over anything (any primer, straight plastic, etc), doesn't run, ready to re-coast in under 60 seconds, and fully dries in under 15 minutes.
The coats are light, so don't over-saturate the layer, just spray another one in a minute. 2-3 layers achieve even coverage.

DupliColor over Rustoleum or Krylon primer definitely works well.

My go-to primer right now is Krylon Industrial Tough Coat Light Gray Sandable Primer. It is mix of paint with some gooey substance that builds up volume really fast, and sands easily. Dries fast too.

Granted, I sand the majority of the primer layer (a few times over and over) to even the surface before the color coat goes on, so what's left is about 80% primer saturated cardboard and 20% primer coat.
I'm familiar with those but they are like $10 a can. Looks like I might have to break down and buy a couple cans. I was looking for a silver from them in the 16 oz can. #### afadeev ##### Well-Known Member TRF Supporter I'm familiar with those but they are like$10 a can. Looks like I might have to break down and buy a couple cans. I was looking for a silver from them in the 16 oz can.
Yep, though they are frequently on sale.
I think I paid somewhere close to $5-6 per can, just as an experiment. And it worked great for me. If you don't have an auto parts store nearby, the following Amazon link can help, though you will pay closer to$8-9 per can on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTEG6WI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another alternative are Tamiya paints.
I am yet to screw up Tamiya coats, but they are even more expensive than DupliColor by volume, though less per each 100 ml / 3.4 oz can:

#### AfterBurners

##### Well-Known Member
Yep, though they are frequently on sale.
I think I paid somewhere close to $5-6 per can, just as an experiment. And it worked great for me. If you don't have an auto parts store nearby, the following Amazon link can help, though you will pay closer to$8-9 per can on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTEG6WI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another alternative are Tamiya paints.
I am yet to screw up Tamiya coats, but they are even more expensive than DupliColor by volume, though less per each 100 ml / 3.4 oz can:
Thank you