Clothes Dryer Troubleshooting

[mh9162013]

I have one of those newer front-load clothes dryers and it's not working properly. It's a Samsung DV42H5200 EF/A3 for what's it's worth. Anyways, it seems to work just fine, but I'm not getting any heat. I've checked the circuit breakers, outlet (getting 120/120/240 or so volts), lint filter and exhaust tubing and everything checks out. So I'm thinking it's the heating element and/or thermostat/fuse that's not working properly. I think I can get the parts I need for $50 or so.

After taking a class at YouTube University, it looks like replacing the heating element, thermostat/fuse is something I can do in an afternoon. But before I try (and order the $50 or so worth of parts), I want to make sure I'm not missing something, whether it's a possible easy fix or cause for this problem.

Any thoughts or opinions will be appreciated.

 

[cerving]

Silly question, but did you check to see if the outlet was blocked with lint? Lots of times dryers are pushed back against a wall, and the hose can easily get kinked closed (especially those thin foil ones they use nowadays). Most dryers have a flow/temperature sensor, and if there's not enough airflow or the outlet temperature gets too high they'll shut off the heater.

 

[tsmith1315]

If you start looking inside, check the element for resistance with a multimeter. You should have continuity, and a pretty low resistance reading- a few ohms or so.

 

[mh9162013]

Silly question, but did you check to see if the outlet was blocked with lint? Lots of times dryers are pushed back against a wall, and the hose can easily get kinked closed (especially those thin foil ones they use nowadays). Most dryers have a flow/temperature sensor, and if there's not enough airflow or the outlet temperature gets too high they'll shut off the heater.

Yes, the exhaust tubing is free from blockages and there's plenty of air coming out the vent outside.

 

[mh9162013]

If you start looking inside, check the element for resistance with a multimeter. You should have continuity, and a pretty low resistance reading- a few ohms or so.

The hard part isn't replacing the heating element/thermostat/fuse, it's simply getting to those components. So I'm looking for insight that prevents me from having to open up the dryer, if I can.

 

[bjphoenix]

I have an old very simple dryer, as far as I know with no semiconductors anywhere in it. When it stopped putting out heat I replaced the temperature sensor and that fixed it. A year later when it stopped heating I found that the heating element had broken so I replaced that. From my experience one of these elements could be your problem, but if your dryer has semiconductors and integrated circuits it could have gremlins hiding in other places.

 

[mh9162013]

I have an old very simple dryer, as far as I know with no semiconductors anywhere in it. When it stopped putting out heat I replaced the temperature sensor and that fixed it. A year later when it stopped heating I found that the heating element had broken so I replaced that. From my experience one of these elements could be your problem, but if your dryer has semiconductors and integrated circuits it could have gremlins hiding in other places.

It's got an LCD screen and some fancy dood-dads that I'm not even aware of. However, everything seems to work just fine, such as buttons, settings, etc.

I could call someone out, but it looks like there will be a $100+ service charge that won't even be applied to the parts and labor. If replacing the heating element and other related parts costs $60 (plus a few hours of my time, of course), looks like its worth trying to fix it myself before calling someone out. Or is my logic missing something?

 

[kuririn]

If it's still under warranty let a tech look at it.
If it's out of warranty then have fun.

 

[mh9162013]

If it's still under warranty let a tech look at it.
If it's out of warranty then have fun.

It's well out of warranty. Looks like I have my work cut out for me then...

 

[bjphoenix]

I could call someone out, but it looks like there will be a $100+ service charge that won't even be applied to the parts and labor. If replacing the heating element and other related parts costs $60 (plus a few hours of my time, of course), looks like its worth trying to fix it myself before calling someone out. Or is my logic missing something?

That's my usual thought process, however I'll also google search as much as I can beforehand looking for clues.

 

[OzHybrid]

These usually have a timer which has a final cool down section with no heat. Make sure you are past that in the heating time area. Thare is an air movement detector near the fan outlet, usually a flap that activates a microswitch, might be jammed. Doorswitch that controls the motor and heat. Switches them off when open. May be a single or double pole, one to motor, one to heat. A high temperature safety cut off. There may or may not be actual temperature regulation. Sometimes it's just 2 temperature settings, low and high.
That's it. They're not a complex piece of equipment generally unless you have an integrated moisture condenser.
Good luck. You should be able to do all tests with the power off and unplugged.

 

[mh9162013]

Ok, so the plot thickens...

I was trying to dry a small amount of clothes (the original load) by running the dryer for several hours. I know it's not ideal, but it's blowing room-temp air through the drum, so drying is taking place, although very slowly. I set the "timer" on the dryer, so it wouldn't automatically shut off when it thought the load was dry (or for some other reason). However, I set it to 90 minutes, and it ends in just a few minutes. Also, the "filter check" light blinks briefly. But the exhaust tube and lint filter and clear.

Also, it seems like some lukewarm air is making its way into the drum now...

More troubleshooting, here we come!

 

[OzHybrid]

That's probably the air movement detector flap. As the air pressure gets reduced due to lint, the flap cannot get pushed by the air. Could also be the fan drive belt slipping or both. If it's been going on and off, the contacts in the microswitch might get worn out. The cost of a replacement microswitch is about 3 bucks. You'll need to take the back off to check, make sure the flap moves, the belt is tight etc.

 

[Art Upton]

Did you try asking on the home appliance forums instead of a rocket forum? That worked for me with my washer . I would not have dreamed about asking about my washer on a rocket forum ????

 

[OzHybrid]

Did you try asking on the home appliance forums instead of a rocket forum? That worked for me with my washer . I would not have dreamed about asking about my washer on a rocket forum ????

Shall we launch it?

 

[Art Upton]

Shall we launch it?

Crazy Jim would launch it like he did his old fashioned Wood Console TV at LDRS 2012, oh wait some other guy had to launch a snow mobile to show him up.... I Digress

 

[rcktnut]

Did you try asking on the home appliance forums instead of a rocket forum? That worked for me with my washer . I would not have dreamed about asking about my washer on a rocket forum ????

+I I learned from an appliance repair man I know, never buy a Samsung appliance to begin with. More problems with them than any other brand.

 

[mh9162013]

That's probably the air movement detector flap. As the air pressure gets reduced due to lint, the flap cannot get pushed by the air. Could also be the fan drive belt slipping or both. If it's been going on and off, the contacts in the microswitch might get worn out. The cost of a replacement microswitch is about 3 bucks. You'll need to take the back off to check, make sure the flap moves, the belt is tight etc.

I doubt it's teh air movement detector flap...assuming my dryer even has it. When I check the outdoor vent, there's PLENTY of air coming out.

Could be a microswitch, although I wouldn't so far to say the heat is cutting on and off. More like slightly turning on...a little bit, then turning off.

 

[OzHybrid]

They pretty much all have them. No moving air means it's not safe to give heat, so it disables heat.
If you're reasonably competent using a multimeter it should be easy to find the fault. I'll fly over and fix it, if you spot me the airfare.....

 

[tsmmiller]

Most likely you have one of the two thermocouples going out. There are two of them in the heating element plus a few switches. Look at Appliance parts.com for your model, it will give you a parts breakdown on the entire dryer. Look at everything dealing with the heat element. Mine had two thermocouples and a switch. I ordered all three when I found one thermo was bad, and a burned out heat element. For under $100 I replaced everything. The worst part is disassembly, then getting the drum realigned with the belt When you put everything back together.

 

[OzHybrid]

As the filter blocked light was going on/off with a small amount of heat, I think the air movement detector would be the first place I'd look. That said, a full diagnosis should not take more than 10 minutes.

 

[tsmmiller]

https://applianceparts.com/model/SMGDV42H5200EF|A3/0003It looks like you have 4 thermostats to deal with, it is not likely the strip sensor.
Air movement sensor may be an issue, but feel it is more than likely one of those thermostats.
My ducting is 100 ft long, and with no booster that little duct light is nearly always on, and it heats fine, just takes a little more time to dry. One of these days I’ll install a booster, but need an electrician to run dedicated wiring. I could, just not a job I want to hassle with.

 

[tsmmiller]

By the way, all of those plus the heat element, all you need to do is remove the back, you don’t need to take the drum loose unless you are replacing the belt.

 

[OzHybrid]

I guess we'll all find out when the back finally comes off......... Until then and there's an actual diagnosis, we're guessing.

 

[mh9162013]

By the way, all of those plus the heat element, all you need to do is remove the back, you don’t need to take the drum loose unless you are replacing the belt.

You have any clue where to find the air movement sensor? I looked in the lint filter and the exhaust area in the back, but they both look clear and I don't see any doors or sensors.

 

[mh9162013]

I'm gonna see if I can remove the back cover...

 

[tsmmiller]

The DC32-00007A Thermistor is the airflow sensor. It is located on the back of blower assembly near the front of the machine.

 

[KenECoyote]

Did you check if the single sock trap in the back was full?

Joking aside, my family has 3 shoeboxes full of single socks found after laundering and these didn't have any matching up.

Edit add: I had several Samsung appliances (including a fancy washer) and all broke down after 5-10 years. However, I still regularly use a Kenmore dryer from the 80s (twice fixed it myself).

 

[tsmmiller]

Unplug it first should go without saying! Check the heat element first. If it is burned out you will see a break in the wire.
Next look to the thermostats. The air flow sensor would be the last thing I would check. Just my experience with the two previous Samsungs I’ve had it was a combination of thermostat and burned out heat element.

 

[mh9162013]

The DC32-00007A Thermistor is the airflow sensor. It is located on the back of blower assembly near the front of the machine.

So I'm not looking for a mechanical device?