Clear coating inkjet printed cardstock

[BKROSNEY]

Hi to all,

This is my first "new" post to "The Rocketry Forum".

I'm looking for ideas/suggestions on clear coating inkjet printed paper shrouds. I'm currently working on the "Centuri Point" (which is basically just a paper shroud anyway), I've printed the shroud onto 110 lb. cardstock (on my Canon inkjet) and was looking for ideas on how to preserve the details by clear coating the whole shroud after assembly. Just looking for something to protect the shroud from smudging and keeping it clean from dirty little fingers!

In the past I tried using the Krylon "Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze" on an Art Applewhite saucer (same basic cardstock build), but I was never happy with the results. Maybe it was insufficient passes (I only sprayed it twice) or merely applied it too lightly, but I was left with almost a slightly mottled effect.

So looking to others for their ideas/suggestions/experiences etc.

Thanks in advance.

... Bill

 

[BobH48]

In the past I tried using the Krylon "Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze" on an Art Applewhite saucer (same basic cardstock build), but I was never happy with the results. Maybe it was insufficient passes (I only sprayed it twice) or merely applied it too lightly, but I was left with almost a slightly mottled effect.

I have had the same result using Krylon "Crystal Clear Acrylic".

Not that happy with it. I have had better luck printing onto Photo Paper and then clear coating that.

There is supposed to be a better clear coat for paper, but I can't remember the name of it right now.

 

[sandman]

I haven't found a clear coat that doesn't just soak into card stock. Not the effect I was looking for.

But there is hope!

Lately I've been getting some valuable lessons in using cardstock and color printing.

Here is what i found and my suggestions to you;

1.) Print out everything you want to form shrouds of, "The Point", Vulcan, etc.

2.) Double and tripple check them for accurate sizing. (scaling happens on some computers!)

3.) Once you are sure you have them "exactly" right, carefullu cut out the patterns (if you have a bunch) and lay them out on an 11" by 17" sheet. You may have to tape two 8 1/2" x 11" sheets together to get that.

4.) Take your finished sheet that you are very happy with over to your nearest Staples office supply store. (Staples, Business depot for our Canadian friends).

DO NOT...REPEAT...DO NOT GO TO KINKO'S They cannot do this! Staples is the only place to go!

5.) Have them make a color copy on 64# glossy "Presentation Paper". it comes 11"X 17" and the copies are really really SWEET!
64# stock is pretty heavy and it's nice and glossy to!

You could always double it up if it doesn't seem sturdy enough.

Not cheap...about $2.80 a sheet but hey...how many sheets will you need?

You can get an awful lot of stuff on an 11" X 17" sheet!

I'm sure Art Applewhite won't mind you making one copy for your own use. the glossy paper looks soooo nice.

 

[wwattles]

I printed out the wraps for the A.C.M.E. Spitfire at Kinko's on the color laser printer, then had them copy those onto my self-adhesive sheets with the color copier. Outstanding color and detail. No clear-coating needed, but I did just a light coat just for good measure.

WW

 

[DynaSoar]

Originally posted by BKROSNEY
I'm looking for ideas/suggestions on clear coating inkjet printed paper shrouds. I'm currently working on the "Centuri Point" (which is basically just a paper shroud anyway), I've printed the shroud onto 110 lb. cardstock (on my Canon inkjet) and was looking for ideas on how to preserve the details by clear coating the whole shroud after assembly. Just looking for something to protect the shroud from smudging and keeping it clean from dirty little fingers!

Something that seemed to sound good for covering decals: adhesive plastic lamination sheets. But it'd be better done prior to cutting and wrapping the shroud. And you'd have to make sure you didn't cover the glue tab, or else use a glue that'd stick to the laminate.

 

[DJ Delorie]

Originally posted by wwattles
I printed out the wraps for the A.C.M.E. Spitfire at Kinko's on the color laser printer, then had them copy those onto my self-adhesive sheets with the color copier.

I have two models with laser-printed labels. One was printed onto a self-adhesive sheet, the other glued with 3M Type 77 spray adhesive. So far, the self-adhesive sheet has peeled and the 77 hasn't (although the SA model is older by a few months).

 

[Stymye]

I think that krylon glaze is for pottery or something simmular..

something that Micromister uses and I have reciently tried,
Krylon clear Fixative ,it comes in a spraycan,(craftstore) it's designed for just that purpose.
it can be used over ink, charcoal,decals, all manner of paint ect.
basically for protecting artwork.

 

[BKROSNEY]

Originally posted by stymye
something that Micromister uses and I have reciently tried,
Krylon clear Fixative ,it comes in a spraycan,(craftstore) it's designed for just that purpose.
it can be used over ink, charcoal,decals, all manner of paint ect.
basically for protecting artwork.

Sounds interesting. I don't recognize it from my shopping around in the craft sections. What is it's specific name? Krylon Clear Fixative? I didn't find it on the Krylon web page. I did find something called Krylon "Preserve It". Same thing?

... Bill

 

[wwattles]

Originally posted by BKROSNEY
Sounds interesting. I don't recognize it from my shopping around in the craft sections. What is it's specific name? Krylon Clear Fixative? I didn't find it on the Krylon web page. I did find something called Krylon "Preserve It". Same thing?

... Bill

It's called Workable fixative

I also use the Acrylic Crystal Clear for clear coating as well.

WW

 

[Stymye]

sorry, Bill they have so many produts it's hard to get the name right so heres a pic of the permanent fixative. you do have to spray it in light coats so it won't saturate or run.

they also have a "workable" fixative(as wwatles mentioned) that can be used between layers such as sealing masking edges, or under additional painted details.I have not tried this version
it' is eraseable so I don't know if it's the best option or not.

this is just one suggestion,as the other replys have mentioned some excellent ideas as well..!

 

[BKROSNEY]

Thanks Andy, THAT I do recognize!

I'll have to pick some up and give it a try.

Thanks.

... Bill

 

[Gus]

I've had great luck with an HP color inkjet printer, full size label paper, and Rustoleum Clear (available at Home Depot).

I made the rockets in the attached photo a year ago for a Science Day launch at my kids' school. No yellowing or peeling yet, and some have been launched as many as 7 or 8 times.

 

[sandman]

ROTFLMAO!

Every time I look at the nose cone on the Estes Cluster Bomb...I turn 14 years old again and I start to giggle!

I've seen those in person...Gus is the paper printing expert!

Show us your Vostok!

 

[Gus]

Thanks Sandman,

Thread about the BerthaVostok is here.

With regard to THIS thread, the really interesting thing is the fins on the BerthaVostok. They're just label paper applied directly to the balsa (no glue or other adhesive between the paper and balsa). Edges of the fins were left square and blackened with a sharpie. I figured, with multiple coats, the Rustoleum Clear coat would provide enough of a "shell" to keep the label paper on the fins and, so far (7 months and 5 flights) there has been no separation at all of the paper.

I used the same technique on the GoodbyeKitty.

The fins on this one were a much more complex shape and I was worried about whether the Rustoleum would provide enough of a shell but so far no problems. The clear coat penetrates the label paper really well (which produces such bright colors) but also apparently penetrates into the balsa.

I'll be curious to see what they're like in 5 years. But so far, it's been a really cheap, effective technique with an easily available product.

 

[Stymye]

Gus , did you use the glossy crack and peel type or the more paper-like label paper?

 

[Gus]

Stymye,

The labels I'm currently using are Avery Ink Jet White Full Sheet Labels #8165.

They're not glossy.

I've used other brands too and can't say I've noticed any difference.

Be aware that the colors look somewhat disappointing when the print comes off the printer, but becomes really vibrant when sprayed with the clear coat.

 

[stevem]

Testors dullcote seems to work fine on cardstock printed with inkjet printers - I've used it several times with good results. Doesn't soak into cardstock. I always do several light coats letting dry completely between coats. I've also had good luck with Krylon 1301 Clear Gloss but I know others have had less than desireable results with it.

 

[BKROSNEY]

Originally posted by Gus
I've had great luck with an HP color inkjet printer, full size label paper, and Rustoleum Clear (available at Home Depot).

Gus, great looking rockets! Not that I'm an ardent pacifist (I love scale military), but I like your "conversion" of a cluster bomb rocket to something elementary-school friendly!

Interesting note on the Rust-oleum clear coats....

What specific product did you use Gus?

I did three two things.

Last night at stopped at my local Home Depot up here in Canada. They of course carried at least two Rust-oleum brand clear coats (Painter's Touch and Specialty Lacquer). There might of even been more, but I stopped looking.

Second, today I went to the Rust-oleum web page. Of course, Rust-oleum, like most other manufacturers couldn't make just those TWO clear coats. In their consumer line, aerosol clear coats are available under; their "Painter's Touch" series (gloss clear #1901), their "Specialty - Lacquer" series (gloss clear #1906), plus their "Stops Rust - Protective Enamel" (clear #7701).

And of course their Industrial line has a similar variety of offerings; including one under their "Industrial Choice" series which their web page touts as "higher gloss than lacquer based aerosols".

Does any of this matter? I dropped an e-mail to their tech support contact; explaining that I'm looking for something to clear coat printed card stock and that they had many offerings. Did THEY have any recommendations. In short this was their response:

"All of the Rust-Oleum clears are lacquer finishes and will provide a hard
high gloss finish. I prefer to use the 7701 Stops Rust aerosol. I highly
recommend doing a test application on a printed sheet before applying to
the entire project. I recommend applying multiple light coats about 10
minutes apart. Applying the product to heavilly will cause the ink to
smear. There are not any gloss differences between the different clear
products."

So, for what it's worth....

... Bill

 

[Gus]

Bill,

The product I use most is the Painter's Touch clear gloss.

When I first started using this technique I bought several different products, including some really expensive polyurethane. I tested all three and the only one which didn't cause running was the really cheap stuff.

As for which of the Rustoleum products is the best, based on ABSOLUTELY NO EVIDENCE WHATSOEVER, I am convinced that the only real difference between most of the products is the design on the can and the price on the pricetag. (Although I'm pretty sure somebody at Rustoleum can give you a technical explanation of why additive X in can Y gives the product twice the diffraction-sub-Q-parametric-haziness-gradient (and price) of product Z)

Remember the company a few years back that sold the daily and long lasting disposable contact lenses at wildly different prices, only to eventually reveal they were exactly the same product in 2 different boxes?

 

[BKROSNEY]

Thanks Gus,

I hear what your saying!

I remember when I pursued the difference between one of the Krylon clear coats offered at my local home improvement center versus the Krylon "art" clear coat being sold out of an art supply house at twice the price. The Krylon folks told me it was the same paint, just packaged differently!

For the most part I believe strongly in you-get-what-you-pay-for. But I've also seen enough paying for the label too. I don't mind paying more to a company that will provide superior service and support, but as any cost conscious consumer, you want to get the best value for your dollar.

I hope to work on my Centuri Point this weekend, I'll have to try the Painter's Touch clear coat.

I'm also drawing up a 1.3x upscale of it to fly on D12-3's. I'll keep the forum posted of my results.

... Bill