"Cleaning up" a yellowed decal pdf prior to printing?

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Tramper Al

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Hey,
I've got lots of decals in pdf form (thanks fellow rocketeers) from the original Centuri or Estes. Once in a while I find that the decal I scan want to use is just rather yellowed (the white part), and that seems to be the only version out there on the web. Other times I have two versions, one of which has been cleaned up and the background looks nice and white. What is the best way to go about whitening the white background on a pdf decal file prior to printing? Which program do you use, and how can you best maintain the integrity of the actual (color) decal parts?
I am currently looking at the Centuri Space Shuttle files.

1640659742876.png
 
I had this same issue. I started scanning many of my old and vintage decal sheets but the results were less than great. I cleaned them up in GIMP a free version of photoshop. I am no graphic artist but I have been happy with the results.1640659742876.png
 
You might be able to restore the decal by placing it in a window and letting sunlight do the work. If you tape it onto the window, you need to make sure condensation doesn't set it, for obvious reasons.

I have used this technique once or twice, but it was a long time ago.
 
Hi lakeroadster,
I do have a vague recollection of using MS Paint like this before, but it was kind of a "replace all" procedure where I specified the yellow background somehow and then clicked to change all of it to white. The Paint videos I'm looking at now all use the tiny eraser to kind of go around scratching the whole decal a little at a time. And it's not efficiently covering yellow with white in any event. Any clues for me?
I can get it to capture the yellow using the "color picker", but not able to change all to white in any practical way.
Thanks!
 
The fastest, easiest, and most 'neutral' way to fix an issue like this is with an eyedropper Levels adjustment (available in Photoshop and GIMP):
  • use the Black point eyedropper and click an decal area that should be black, but is not
  • use the White point eyedropper to click an area the should be white, but is not
The key is not to click an area that is already black or white. In the decal posted by the OP, the black is not bad, so you can click just about any black and get good results. Otherwise, find a dark gray area that should be black and click it with the black point eye dropper. For the white, you need to find the most 'discolored' white, which looks to the be the area between the two Centuri logos. You can click as many places as you need with the white point eye dropper until you get the best results. (There are better methods to use, but this is quick and easy.)

Basically you are 'clipping' the colors - anything darker than the black color you click on becomes black, and anything lighter than the light area you click on becomes white. In the vast majority of cases it will restore black and white without having a detrimental effect on colors.

The issue with Brightness and Contrast controls is that you generally can't have both - good blacks and good whites. If you look at the example using B/C, you can clearly see the whites still have a significant yellow tint near the Centuri logos

The other Three rules of Decal Club:
  • if you have straight lines, you must scan the decal parallel to the scanner to avoid aliasing
  • you must scan at 200 pixels/inch or better
  • you must NEVER USE JPG! ONLY PNG or TIF!!
The decal posted by the OP does not have enough pixels to properly reproduce and there is clear aliasing in the lines of the small American flag, but at least it was saved as the PNG. The Goonydent decals were saved as JPG and show clear signs of JPG artifacts.


Tony

cleaned up with Levels eyedropper (Photoshop – literally, 2 clicks, one with each eyedropper):fixed-decal.png


aliasing caused by a tilted scan - you can see missing pixels caused by aliasing in the middle fo the flag (color exaggerated to show effect, but also clearly visible in post #2 above):
aliasing.png

by straightening the image, aliasing is reduced
aliasing-fixed.png

instead of a clean white background in PNG format, saving in JPG format adds random looking noise all around and inside each area of color:
Bad-jpg.png

Below is an inverted color difference of the flag portion of the decal saved as PNG and as JPG. The colors you see are the changes made to the original file by the JPG compression algorithm. It's clearly visible how many pixels are affected by JPG compression and are no longer their original color: (a pure white image means no pixels are affected, pure black means every pixel was completely changed)
Flag-difference.png

disclosure: Adobe certified Photoshop Instructor/Expert, over 30 years of working with digital images
 
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Sorry guys, today I've spent a couple of hours each with Paint and Paint 3D with that OP file and am really getting nowhere. I've watched many videos too, but none seems to really address what you guys seem to be able to do with relative ease. In Paint the best I can do is get a White Eraser that would require me to carefully trace every margin (and interior) of every decal feature. The only eyedropper tool I have just picks up a color from the decal and stores it - nothing I do to that color ever changes the decal itself, while selected or not. In Paint 3D the magic select feature tries to guess what to include/exclude. In theory I could eventually outline every part and paste it onto a new white background, but in practice again I end up having to carefully trace every margin and interior with the add/remove feature. The smaller detailed features with white within them just look horrible, as the tool can't guess the edges. Again not really tenable. I can select the paint bucket but have not gotten it to actually do anything.

I know its easy for you guys and once you know how. I appreciate your suggestions, but please pretend I don't know even the basics of these graphics programs, as I have only rarely every used them.
 
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The post by manixfan above is a great tutorial for someone who basically understands the tools and will give great results. GIMP is the zero cost option as he said and that is where the difficulty comes in, as GIMP is amazing but not intuitive for someone who has never done photo editing. Similar for people who have never used CAD software. . . if you don't have experience, it is hard to figure out free or low-cost CAD.

There are tons of GIMP tutorials on youtube and other places and you can learn a lot, but it can be hard to know where to start. In the perfect world, someone may have done a step-by-step video tutorial for cleaning up decals, but I don't know of one.

I would say if you can install GIMP, open and close files and get a good source, manixfan's post will hopefully lead you to a good solution. Make sure to focus on the part about aligning/rotating the file to minimize the aliasing. That is sage advice.

Sandy.
 
There is an alternative version of GIMP called GIMPshop with somewhat similar menus as photoshop, but if you are unfamiliar with both of those anyway that is not helpful.
 
If you have a higher resolution scan I can fix it up and send it back as an easy to print PDF. Just send it to me via private message. It literally takes less than a minute for me to do and I’m happy to help. If you only have the one you posted, let me know and I’ll do a bit better on that one and send it to you.


Tony
 
I do have a vague recollection of using MS Paint like this before, but it was kind of a "replace all" procedure where I specified the yellow background somehow and then clicked to change all of it to white.
ImageMagick can do that. You tell it a color (including a "fuzz" factor if the background isn't completely uniform) that you want changed. You then tell it what you want it changed to (if it's supposed to be background, transparent is usually the optimal choice for most applications).

https://stackoverflow.com/questions...background-of-a-scanned-image-with-imagemagic
 

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