Cleaning AT RMS Casings

[Rocketholic]

Not sure where to post this but here seemed logical.

I have no doubt this subject has been hammered out before and I've even read posts with similar information but I can't find them so here goes.

I'm relatively new to the RMS scene and have successfully loaded and flown the AT 29/40-120 casing below a few times. When it came time to clean it, I reached down below my bench and pulled out my shotgun choke tube cleaner and gave it a try. This stuff works VERY well and quickly at removing crusty carbon deposits and other residue left behind. Its around $12 for the can but you don't need much. Works great on removing carbon on handguns too after firing cheap practice rounds that tend to use "dirty" powder.

I use a 1-gallon plastic jug bottom remaining after cutting it off a little below the handle attachment and an old toothbrush. Take all the pieces and drop them in the container. Give them a quick dousing and let them sit a minute. Wipe with a rag after a quick brush and done. It leaves behind an ultra-thin lubricant/protectant film (notice the shine). The film seems to help prevent future deposits from being stubborn to remove plus it protects all the threads and surfaces.

Don't use it indoors though. Especially not in the house.

 

[SolarYellow]

Works great on removing carbon on handguns too after firing cheap practice rounds that tend to use "dirty" powder.

A dry paper towel will get almost all of that off if used at the range while the gun is still warm. My stainless revolver has a nice bronze patina on the smokiest parts and little more, and that's all I do to it. Waiting until you get home and the gun is cool gives the carbons a chance to cross link and then you're in for some nasty chemicals and/or scrubbing.

 

[Rob Campbell]

First, I clean everything out with a brush sized for the case (Chris' Rocket Supplies them) and then I use gun cleaning wipes I got at Walmart. Cheap and very effective.

 

[mhanna]

I have always used baby wipes.

 

[John Kemker]

Hoppe's No. 9

 

[Papa Elf]

other tips for cleaning cases. 1.) Don't Grease the liners. Not Needed, Best Case Scenario Just makes a Mess, worse case scenario it glues the liner to the case.
2.) Clean the motor ASAP. Its so much easier to do while its warm. Often wet wipes and q-tips is enough to get-er-done while its still warm. 3.) Gun cleaner is a great choice. 4.) Don't use anything that has bleach in it... dont ask how I know...

 

[rcktnut]

There are many ways to clean them, I use vinegar and or dish soap and water. The main thing is cleaning them ASAP. Leaving them dirty for a period of time is the worst thing you can do.

 

[krislhull]

There are almost too many methods to clean cases... every rocketeer has their own favorite or preferred way. Personally, like others have stated here, I tend to clean mine at the field almost immediately after recovery. Usually the first thing I will do after getting my rocket back to my camp is I will remove the case, and remove the liners. I keep a couple of 3/8 dowels of various lengths (up to 3ft long) in my range box, and will use those to swap the insides of the cases and clean them. I never return home after a launch with a case that is still dirty.

 

[Papa Elf]

Vinegar is actually BAD for cleaning them. I used to do that, however it does damage the casing over time.

 

[Rob Campbell]

I never return home after a launch with a case that is still dirty.

That's a best practice. It prevents residue from building up on the inside of the case.

 

[SolarYellow]

Vinegar is actually BAD for cleaning them. I used to do that, however it does damage the casing over time.

Anything significantly acidic or basic will damage the anodizing.

 

[atestani]

There are many cleaning practices. FWIW... here is mine.

Motor assembly: I do lightly grease the liner with the same Super-Lube used on the threads and O-rings

Following launch, as soon as the motor cools down enough to handle (use rubber gloves so your hands don't get black and stink):
- Take the motor apart and slide out the load/liner. Assure you have removed the FSD (forward seal disk) and dispose of the spent load
- Put the closures, adapters, and forward seal disk in a jar I carry filled with 50% Windex, 50% water
- Using a push-rod, push baby-wipes down the tube to get the big part out so it doesn't get stuck on the surface

Soon after arriving home:
- With a toothbrush, thoroughly clean the closures, adapters, and FSD, spraying (full strength) Windex directly on the parts. Dry with paper towels and/or compressed air
- Spray Windex inside the tube and, using a bottle brush, scrub out the remaining residue. Assure the treads are completely clean.
- Push some baby-wipes down the tube to assure they come out clean. Dry with paper towels and/or compressed air

Note: There is ammonia in Windex which can, over time, break down the anodized layer on aluminum, causing it to lose its luster and potentially become discolored. I have not seen this any of that on my casings/closures. I just do all of the above the same day as the launch and dry everything thoroughly. Even if my parts "lose luster or discolor", who cares?

 

[rcktnut]

Vinegar is actually BAD for cleaning them. I used to do that, however it does damage the casing over time.

These are about 23 years old, have always been cleaned with vinegar, soap ,water and look brand new inside and out. I guess if you leave them in the vinegar for an extended period of time it could be harmful to the cases. 15- 20 min did not hurt my cases at all. I also grease all my liners and remove ASAP after recovered.

 

[Rocketholic]

After cleaning rifles, shotguns, and handguns for over 40 years I had a pretty good idea the choke tube cleaner was gonna work. Hehe. Moreover, I wanted to share my results in case someone wanted to give it a try.
I wanted to use something I already had instead of buying even more shtuff or making some new concoction. The good Lord knows I have enough concoctions, do-dads and whatchamafudgers around here!!
Lots of methods here and some good ones too! Thanks for sharing, everyone!
Honestly, I probably waited 3-5 hours to clean mine and had no issues whatsoever. It may have even been longer... Did not grease the liner. Lightly greased the threads and O-rings as directed. Used plumbers grease which is basically Vaseline. Will have to remember not to crank down on the forward closure in the future... DOH!

 

[rcktnut]

Your case and closures look great. Vinegar was recommended by DR. Rocket for cleaning motor components. I used it because of that and it works great. I've always cleaned my cases after returning home from a launch, daylight yet or not. Most of the time never have to use vinegar on the cases unless a liner would have a burn through. I grease the liners so use soap and water to clean the cases. The closures always get a 15 or so minute soak in vinegar then go into the soap water. A thorough rinse with water and done. Vinegar also woks great on launch rails and blast deflectors.

 

[cwbullet]

I have an ancient secret - baby wipes on the field and Dawn at the house. Any stuck on grime gets Hoppes.

 

[MikeT]

other tips for cleaning cases. 1.) Don't Grease the liners. Not Needed, Best Case Scenario Just makes a Mess, worse case scenario it glues the liner to the case.
2.) Clean the motor ASAP. Its so much easier to do while its warm. Often wet wipes and q-tips is enough to get-er-done while its still warm. 3.) Gun cleaner is a great choice. 4.) Don't use anything that has bleach in it... dont ask how I know...

I always lightly lube my cases and have never had a issue. Makes clean up easier IMO.

 

[Rocketholic]

I always lightly lube my cases and have never had a issue. Makes clean up easier IMO.

I agree on the results. Like CLP for firearms, the choke tube cleaner leaves a protective film on the components inside and out.

I attribute the ease of cleaning to the protective film left behind from the previous cleaning. I would imagine just about any thin-film protectant/lubricant would work.

 

[Papa Elf]

I always lightly lube my cases and have never had a issue. Makes clean up easier IMO.

Lightly lubing the cases are fine and you should do it. Liners on the other hand I would not unless the instructions specifically tell you to because they rely on the grease to help seal the motor. Other than that, the grease at worst glues the liner in, at best just gives you a mess to clean up.

I should also mention, Always great o-rings and threads. On Hobby RMS do not grease the delay o-rings. On RMS+ reloads lightly grease the delay o-rings (enough to make it shine) but do not grease the washer. Point is you don't want grease touching the delay or black powder at all. It's a good way to prevent the charge from not firing or fizzling.

 

[MikeT]

Lightly lubing the cases are fine and you should do it. Liners on the other hand I would not unless the instructions specifically tell you to because they rely on the grease to help seal the motor. Other than that, the grease at worst glues the liner in, at best just gives you a mess to clean up.

I should also mention, Always great o-rings and threads. On Hobby RMS do not grease the delay o-rings. On RMS+ reloads lightly grease the delay o-rings (enough to make it shine) but do not grease the washer. Point is you don't want grease touching the delay or black powder at all. It's a good way to prevent the charge from not firing or fizzling.

Don't the liners go in the casing? I always lightly lube the inside of my casing.

 

[Papa Elf]

Don't the liners go in the casing? I always lightly lube the inside of my casing.

Yes, but the light coating of lube on the casing is not going cause a problem.

And maybe I should define what I mean by lube the cases. Grease should only be on the threads. If you use a gun cleaner that lubes the walls of the case as it cleans this is also fine.

It's the extra grease directly slapped on the liner that I don't like. Especially paper and the "brown phenolic" liners where the grease can soak into the material that can glue the liner to the case. I stopped greasing my liners in the 2000's and since then never had to chisel or hammer out glued in liners (except when someone helped me build that N motor and greased the liner... That was a royal pain getting that liner out).

 

[MikeT]

Yes, but the light coating of lube on the casing is not going cause a problem.

And maybe I should define what I mean by lube the cases. Grease should only be on the threads. If you use a gun cleaner that lubes the walls of the case as it cleans this is also fine.

It's the extra grease directly slapped on the liner that I don't like. Especially paper and the "brown phenolic" liners where the grease can soak into the material that can glue the liner to the case. I stopped greasing my liners in the 2000's and since then never had to chisel or hammer out glued in liners (except when someone helped me build that N motor and greased the liner... That was a royal pain getting that liner out).

Your free to do as you please , I'll continue to do what works for me. I've have never experienced a issue removing spent lightly greased liners .

 

[4regt4]

Your free to do as you please , I'll continue to do what works for me. I've have never experienced a issue removing spent lightly greased liners .

Never been an issue for me either. I used to heavily grease them, but I quit doing that because subsequent cleaning was a royal gooey mess. But the liners always slid right out.

Hans.

 

[loopy]

Your free to do as you please , I'll continue to do what works for me. I've have never experienced a issue removing spent lightly greased liners .

Same.

 

[Troy3003]

Mechanic wipes work wonders in the field too.

 

[4regt4]

Just tried Hoppes #9. From the weekend, I had a CTI case with a bad "patch" inside the case where the liner badly burned through. I thought the case itself was damaged. Dawn and a brush covered with a wet paper towel didn't change anything. But after pushing through a paper towel with #9, it looks like new.

I tried looking around town for the suggested CLP products, but could not find them. Hoppes seems to be everywhere.

Hans.

 

[Joekeyo]

Just tried Hoppes #9. From the weekend, I had a CTI case with a bad "patch" inside the case where the liner badly burned through. I thought the case itself was damaged. Dawn and a brush covered with a wet paper towel didn't change anything. But after pushing through a paper towel with #9, it looks like new.

I tried looking around town for the suggested CLP products, but could not find them. Hoppes seems to be everywhere.

Hans.

I might try that. I have a small stubborn patch in one of my cases. It doesn't seem to interfere with performance, but I would like it gone.

 

[speed]

I might try that. I have a small stubborn patch in one of my cases. It doesn't seem to interfere with performance, but I would like it gone.

Vinegar works well and its cheap. Just be sure to rinse everything off afterwards.

 

[4regt4]

I'm going to use Hoppes for the deep cleaning after I get home, but I keep wondering about baby wipes for a quick wipe down in the field.

Problem:

Any baby wipes I've been around stink to high hell - yes, before coming into contact with the baby's butt. Just opening the container will instantly plug my sinuses and make my eyes burn. Are there any truly scent free baby wipes? Do all of them stink, or have I just been unlucky with the ones I've been exposed to?

Hans.

 

[MarsLander]

Are there any truly scent free baby wipes?

Best I have found for usability, strength and no stink.

Huggies Natural Care Sensitive...No Fragrance. Cheap in the baby diaper aisle at WM or any grocery store.

https://www.huggies.com/en-us/wipes/natural-care-sensitive