I just for mine in, and I'm looking for that eye-nut. Can't find it at my local hardware store. Any tips on where to find one?Yep David...I'm all out of "pixie dust" guess I'll do another 75mm. I didn't feel like fighting this one.
Gonna need a section of 1/4in threaded rod, an eyenut [also 1/4in] and 2 bulkplates,[ Coupler & airframe] to make another av-bay lid.
NOTE: this extra needed one [larger BP,]does not come with the kit, must purchase separately. You do get the black coupler BP.
Place coupler/NC shoulder into place.
Screw rod into NC tip and back it up with nut.
Slide through the NC & slip glued together BP's into place.
Get out the Dremel and cut it off leaving 3/4in.
Screw on the eye-nut. Done.
Thank you for the kind words. The intent of doing this highly detailed thread [more so than any other I've done] was exactly that...create a basic answer all about every aspect of building any fiberglass rocket. Including such basic items as how to mix, & how much glue to use, packing & folding chutes, knots, nuts & bolts....everything the first time or new fiberglass rocketeer could use as a reference.CJ, thanks. Every time I wonder how to set something up, I read this thread first. Creating this thread is a wonderful contribution to the rocketry community.
+1 re: not directly epoxying the screws to the airframe. If you fly the rocket enough times you'll might want to replace the buttons. There are several different ways of getting a backing block or fastener inside the tube for the upper button, and if you are placing it higher than the forward centering ring it's no different doing it before or after the motor mount has been bonded to the airframe. For the lower button, I like to put a small wood backing block on the lower centering ring and sink a screw into that.Many folks like to just screw the machine screws into a tapped and threaded hole in the fiberglass. I would not epoxy the screws in, just in case you wanted to replace the buttons. Personally, I like to back the screws with blind nuts on the inside of the tube and secure them in place with some epoxy.
The wood screws are used if you are attaching the rail buttons to a wood centering ring thru the body tube.
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Thanks for the reassurance. This is my biggest fiberglass project so far, in a number of ways. It's nice to have people on the forum whose experience I can lean on. Thanks. Just a few loose ends to tie up and it's ready to fly. I'll be joining a junior that's been a great rocket to fly.If you go back and read the posts pertaining to mounting rail buttons, you will see I just mount directly to airframe by drilling 1/8 hole and self tapping the machine screw in. [or drill and tap if you have one.]
I have another 3in glass rocket with over 115 flights. Replaced buttons at least 6 times and still going strong. A drop of CA and the hole can be re-used if worn.
Anything else is overkill and not needed. I seriously doubt many others have flown a rocket this many times.[yes there are a few]
So my technique has stood the test of time....15yrs and 115 flights.
I would much rather have the screw pull out in case of a mishap [yes there have been a few] rather than a hole in my airframe from an over sturdy mount that ripped through. As in a V-max high thrust that left the buttons in a dirty, corroded rail.
As I have mentioned many times, these are my methods, there are many that work just fine, I just like to think mine are simple, foolproof and work.
what ever you decide make sure the protruding screw will not catch your recovery gear, where I specify mounting, they will not.
Good luck with your build have fun, the DarkStars are nice rockets you will enjoy for any years!