Carbon Fiber 13mm Star Trooper V.2.0

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Really like what you are doing here! Anyway to provide more details on the laminating process/strategy for these smaller parts you are making? I feel it is much more of an art than a science.

Thanks.
My process is this.
First, I cut my balsa to size, then use CA to apply black construction paper to it. I just slather the CA on the wood and make sure it is evenly wet, then press it onto the paper that is sitting on a piece of parchment paper which is sitting on a marble slab that is flat. Since the black paper is black, it makes a good first layer so that a single layer of the CF can be applied and will not show any spots where the weave leaves a tiny uncovered area. I hold it til' the glue sets so it does not warp as the CA hardens. I then do the same thing for the CF, wetting this time the paper layer and pressing it onto the CF, but for the CF layer, I flip it over immediately after a good pressing so I can use my nitrile glove clad finger to rub the CF onto the part, which spreads the CA evenly, and if I see any areas without full saturation, I apply more CA and spread it around some more.
Forgot to mention that I sand the edges down on the paper layer before moving to the CF.
That's pretty much it.
Today I realized what a poor job I did on the notches in the parts that hold the screws for the aluminum angle, so I sanded them to uniformity.
Might finish tomorrow if real life does not get in my way.
Since my Drill Press is inoperable right now, I have to do any holes as I make layers, using my Fiskars hand drill. I actually prefer this because I can feel the thing as I drill it and be more meticulous.

CF Macklin Jig 2016-06-18 001.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks.
My process is this.
First, I cut my balsa to size, then use CA to apply black construction paper to it. I just slather the CA on the wood and make sure it is evenly wet, then press it onto the paper that is sitting on a piece of parchment paper which is sitting on a marble slab that is flat. Since the black paper is black, it makes a good first layer so that a single layer of the CF can be applied and will not show any spots where the weave leaves a tiny uncovered area. I hold it til' the glue sets so it does not warp as the CA hardens. I then do the same thing for the CF, wetting this time the paper layer and pressing it onto the CF, but for the CF layer, I flip it over immediately after a good pressing so I can use my nitrile glove clad finger to rub the CF onto the part, which spreads the CA evenly, and if I see any areas without full saturation, I apply more CA and spread it around some more.
Forgot to mention that I sand the edges down on the paper layer before moving to the CF.
That's pretty much it.
Today I realized what a poor job I did on the notches in the p[arts that hold the screws for the aluminum angle, so I sanded them to uniformity.

Using CA with the CF instead of epoxy? Hmmm this is new to me (not that that means anything).
 
Using CA with the CF instead of epoxy? Hmmm this is new to me (not that that means anything).


I must have left that part out of my other correspondence, and apologize for that.
The CA works incredibly well with the CF, as long as you are properly prepared to handle it in the amount of time you have to work with it.
It is incredibly noxious, as it should be, and obviously you'll need a respirator with cartridges and muffs on them, as well as a breeze and being outdoors so you don't kill your living area and pets and children.
The CA sets the CF onto surfaces like a champ, and since it is fairly quick, you can make another part if you screw one up and it does not ruin your schedule. I have yet to screw one up, but it is only a matter of time.
This project focuses me on making multiple identical parts, plus it gives me a new tool, so I chose it for those purposes.
The Fin Jig will not be exposed to supersonic flight or incredibly varied gravity, so it is ok that CA tends to not flex and becomes brittle if it does. I suspect that the jig I'm building will still be in use 1000 years from now. I hope that much anyhow.

When the jig is complete, I plan on seeing if the CA/CF pressing method stands up to the wear of actual flying models.
I know it will at my scale, but I'm trying to get someone on-board to test it on a real Mach-Plus Capable rocket.
I've already chosen my flyer, but they have real life to contend with too, so I am patiently awaiting their response.
It can be sealed with epoxy too, just like when I made my Son's Ipod Case. Forming it is just so easy with CA, and when you have wet it out, there is no excess layer that tempts you to get out the sand paper.
The parts make new and unique sounds when they bang together in the gallon Zip-lock I put them in.

When that yard of cloth you gave me runs out, I'm going to have to get another of that same and some other samples of varying aspect weight and brand-wise. This stuff is absolutely incredible.

When I hand someone a part I made, they handle it gingerly, as if it might be fragile, and then I ask them to try to break it. They hesitate, but I encourage them to try, and when they do, they look at me like they have just seen a ghost.
They are entirely confused by the parts, and think it a trick. I love it!:tongue:
 
Last edited:
Yeah, the fumes are the worst, but I only do this outdoors with the respirator and eye pro.
I'm using massive volumes of CA, so I have to get any and all that I see at bargain prices, and sometimes some of them have ways to pierce the tube that cause CA to explode or splash, so that has to be accounted for with precautionary steps too.
It would be entirely impossible or moronic to work this method without safety measures like the respirator and eye protection.
Even my nitrile gloves are barely up to the task, as they can become cut on the CA hardened surfaces, so I just make a point of changing them after each step, regardless of whether or not I detect a hole.
It is an acceptable cost for not having broken gloves which equal CF splinters permanently glued to you.
I watch a lot of people do dumb stuff on Youtube with Epoxies, FG and CF, so I'm trying to stay a step ahead of them when it comes to safety.
Eventually, I hope to think up ways to make machines handle this process, but until I do, it will need to be done by hand.
 
I had CA fumes in my eyes before - it stings / makes the eyes water a good bit.

CF was from a group order Troj put together in 2014.
thread:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?70739-Carbon-Fiber-Preorder

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?69045-Carbon-Fiber-Interest

Those threads are helpful, as I have had to section the piece of cloth into sub-sections, and have experienced it's tendency to not want to be on a roll.
I still love it to pieces just the same, but my attempts to make it into manageable pre-worked shapes always make me feel stupid.
It needs to be what it is until the moment it isn't, and then needs to be exactly what it becomes forever. It really does not have any play room, and if you give it an inch, it will take a mile.
I will not only not be defeated by it's properties, but I will punish it until it sees the light of my intentions.
I will master carbon fiber in a way that will eventually be worth sharing with others.
 
Ever try sharpie, no-paper, CA+ CF? Just curious if it would save you a cutting step.

I use a sharpie on the edges that are sanded down after the paper step. They show raw wood, and after doing a few, I realized the sharpie was a good deal for this.
There are some spots where I want the wood to be visible, or the tip of the sharpie will not fit, so those get to stay woody.

I also originally tried the CF to Balsa, but the paper in between yields a much nicer product. Balsa is actually garbage, and even when you prepare it nicely with sanding on a surface plate, it will always still be what it is.
That's why it has to be worked by hand. It is different every time. The paper and the CF have likely been in the same molecular configurations for quite some time before I got my hands on them, whereas the balsa has been around the world and subject to weather conditions.
The construction paper I used was from my Mom's art supplies, so it is atleast from the 80's.
 
Last edited:
I also enjoy looking at my mistakes, so I leave a few of them on purpose.
I'm wading through uncharted waters, so I can do as I please.
Failure is equal to success, but of much more value.
 
I also enjoy looking at my mistakes, so I leave a few of them on purpose.
I'm wading through uncharted waters, so I can do as I please.
Failure is equal to success, but of much more value.

I like this. I can explain a lot of my rockets' cosmetics this way!
 
Today I will be using this paper to finish making parts. I just need one more moving piece and the two sides.

This paper 2016-06-19 001.jpg
 
Dry Fitting looks decent. I'll take it appart and get the final dimensions tuned in tomorrow when it is light out so I can sand the final tolerances and angles true. Just needs a few minutes of that and then I can start assembling it for real. :)

Then ofcourse I can get back to building the Star Trooper.

Dry Fit Macklin Jig 2016-06-21 003.jpg
 
Thanks guys!:)
Was too busy with other real lifey stuff today but I did get the edges all trued up, and found a better looking alternative to the brass and nylon hardware.
This project was tough without any power tools, but I can rightly say I made it by hand, and the way the parts all fit now means it will hopefully work as intended when I get it assembled.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top