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Can the Estes E-class launch controller run 12V?

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AOSbermunda

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I got my first RMS from Aerotech, and am curious if I could just hook up a 12V car battery to the Estes E-series launch controller (This One) and use that, or is the gauge of the wire too small such that the resistance would be too high? I'm not very knowledgeable in electronics, and I don't want to do anything that could damage my current GSE. Thanks!!
 

dhbarr

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I've done it on 12v from a car battery, and also with 14500 3.7V cells. Both worked just fine for me.
 

jrap330

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I just want to remind people, it is not the voltage but the current that does the job. I=E/R. I would think the extra thin wires, "bell wires" would get warm and/or hot. More voltage means more current so Voltage (E) is in the numerator.
 

BEC

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The Estes E controller has much larger gauge (as well as longer) wires than the Electron Beam. They won't be an issue for the OP. The trick will be connecting to it....and whether or not the continuity lamp (or LED, depending on the vintage of the controller) will stand the doubled voltage.

Depending on which Aerotech igniters (initiators) being used, a fresh set of Duracells in the controller may be enough, for as you accurately point out, it's current that matters here.
 

DaveW6DPS

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There are many plans for simple launch controllers around.

It would be better to go with compete new controller rather than push an Estes controller past its design.

For single pad launches I use simple box with a cable to battery leads on one side and 100 feet of 14 gauge speaker wire works fine. Construction cost about $25 if you can find the speaker wire on sale. If you are only doing low power 50 feet would be fine.
 

sl98

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Here is a good Micromeister thread reply with pictures. You do want to replace the bulb with a 12V bulb. I found 12V xenon bulbs with the same base. I also used smaller battery clips so I can also use a small 9V battery if I'm just launching BP motors.

 

Five

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The Estes E controller has much larger gauge (as well as longer) wires than the Electron Beam. They won't be an issue for the OP. The trick will be connecting to it....and whether or not the continuity lamp (or LED, depending on the vintage of the controller) will stand the doubled voltage.

Depending on which Aerotech igniters (initiators) being used, a fresh set of Duracells in the controller may be enough, for as you accurately point out, it's current that matters here.
I’m not sure about the Estes E controllers but I got the pro series 2 controller and I put 8 D Duracell’s in it which allowed me to ignite a cluster of 3 C6 engines using 3 sonic igniters. Which I don’t think the E controller would have done.
 

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BEC

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I’m not sure about the Estes E controllers but I got the pro series 2 controller and I put 8 D Duracell’s in it which allowed me to ignite a cluster of 3 C6 engines using 3 sonic igniters. Which I don’t think the E controller would have done.
Wire gage is the same between the PSII controller and the E-controller version of the Electron Beam.

What I want to know is how you got eight D-sized Duracells in a compartment that fits six C-cells!
 

Five

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Wire gage is the same between the PSII controller and the E-controller version of the Electron Beam.

What I want to know is how you got eight D-sized Duracells in a compartment that fits six C-cells!
Your right 6 Duracell’s
 

jrap330

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Here is a good Micromeister thread reply with pictures. You do want to replace the bulb with a 12V bulb. I found 12V xenon bulbs with the same base. I also used smaller battery clips so I can also use a small 9V battery if I'm just launching BP motors.

Most interesting is Estes did use spring contacts at some point. All my controllers from 1997-2000 have thin copper strips that loses strength immediately resulting in poor contact at single "AA" battery which again I jam used nichrome wire in between to maintain contactr.
 
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